Prologue

Here we are back in May and time to venture south to Maasbracht and Annapanna. I’ve had a pretty good winter thank you, especially with my new walking buddies – our little Tuesday group of Ted, Clemmie, Crumpet and occasionally the mad, giant pup Ludo. We always visit dog friendly cafes afterwards which is one of the highlights for me – well that and seeing Ted again as I have a bit of a girly crush on him. I’ll miss you all. More recently I have been recovering from major surgery. OK, it was only a day case, but I did have to have a general anaesthetic, so it must have been quite serious. I’m all recovered now though you’ll be pleased to hear.

So off we set, a couple of days later than originally planned as first they wanted to say goodbye to Phil, the barbecue king and party host extraordinaire and he had a good send off in his last role as super host. He would have been proud, I’m told. The delay meant we were still around for Sheila’s 94th birthday too, which she was very happy about. So, after leaving me all day with Roger, they then left me again to go out to dinner… Not impressed, although I’m very happy with Roger. Happy Birthday Sheila.

This year we are off to France. Via Belgium to the Somme and then on to Paris where Alison has another girly few days planned as part of her year long birthday celebrations. I’ve learnt by now that “girly” does not generally include me, however female I might be, although I’m definitely more eligible than Michael who has been trying to wangle an invite! Alison then added another criteria to eligibility, over 60! Well I will be 63 in dog years at the end of October, so what do you think?

May 23rd 2026 – Whalley to Hull

The Saturday of a Bank Holiday weekend is probably not the best time to travel, but fortunately for us everyone else seemed to think it was a bad idea too – so in fact the M62 had never been so quiet. This meant we arrived at my park with plenty of time for a walk through the woods before heading to the port and Pride of Hull. There may not have been many cars on the M62 but there were certainly plenty of them here. Long queues and a full boat did not bode well, but today luck, or something, was on our side. Alison would like to think what happened was a result of her complaint letter last year (when we were directed to deck 3 and were just about last off the ferry – not a pleasant experience for a dog with crossed legs), but I suspect it was just because we had a switched on – female – loading co-ordinator. She saw our hazard lights, waved us to the front of the queue and made sure we had one of the last 3 places on deck 7, right by the exit! Deck 7, for those new to my blog, is where the kennels and dog friendly cabins are and parking for dog carriers is right outside the kennels. Down on Deck 3 it’s another world and as the steps between floors are not dog friendly the only access is via a lift, which is always full! Believe me, it’s a nightmare!

Safely on board in our prime position I got some more good news. A dog friendly cabin had become available, so rather than the kennel Roger and I trotted happily to our room with a view. One bed for me and one for him. Perfect.

May 24th 2026 – Europort to Maasbracht

We have heard the tales and were aware of the chaos at Dover, so going through the new finger print recognition process at passport control was something we were not looking forward to. But our prime position meant we were 5th off the boat and 4th in the non EU queue. As they have 2 finger scanners and everyone has to get out of the car to use them, you don’t need much imagination to work how many hours we might have been queuing. But we didn’t and less than half an hour later we were on our way. Somehow I don’t think we’ll be as lucky next time.

Two and a half hours later we arrived at Van de Laan and Annapanna, resplendent in her new canvas. Problem was, it was hot, very hot so the first thing they had to do was remove as much of it as possible! Luckily for me it didn’t take too long, so soon I was lying in shade with a nice breeze watching bag after bag after bag get loaded on board. Only one of these, my food, belonged to me. Why can’t these people travel light!

May 25th 2026 – Maasbracht

Bank holiday Monday here too so everything we need is shut. No fuel and no chandlery but as they had lots of jobs to do it wasn’t a problem. For me it was too hot to do anything much, especially as there is nowhere to swim round here. I did manage a walk into the town, or at least the harbour front, but even that was hard work. We had a nice coffee at the Riverside Lounge though so that helped a bit. Then it was back to jobs for them and avoiding the sun for me. Alison had a nice little number cleaning Little Dick whilst sitting on her paddleboard. Very tempting, except I don’t like paddleboards.

May 26th 2026 – Maasbracht to Bocholt

All the shops were open again today so we managed to stock up on our missing or damaged items. A new fender, oars for Little Dick and 10 tons of Loo paper later we were ready to go. They didn’t promise we would get to Lommel and the walks around the lake behind the marina, but I hoped, with all toes crossed, but it didn’t work and we called it at day at Bocholt instead. Now Bocholt is a perfectly nice little town but there is nowhere to swim and in this heat I need somewhere to swim. The other problem with Bocholt is the length of the fingers on the visitors pontoon. Going in bow to meant we had to get off at the bow and going in stern to meant the Little Dick was in the way. Brian insisted we went in stern to as I couldn’t get off at the bow! OK, I know I’m now 8 1/2 years old and not as intrepid as I was, but I reckon I’m still agile enough, with support, to get off and on at the bow. I’m going to have to as we’re off to France and it will be necessary at some point.

May 27th 2026 – Bocholt to Zilvermeer

What a difference a couple of degrees and a bit of a breeze makes. From swelteringly hot to very pleasantly warm, so much better for sleeping on deck. We ambled along the pretty wooded surroundings of the Bocholt Canal before turning south onto the Dessel Kwaadmechelen and our mooring for the night at the Zilvermeerhaven. We moored on a hammerhead overlooking the lake and then it was time – at last – for a swim. Of course there was a sign saying “no swimming”. This is another quarry pit lake and dangerously cold a metre of so under the surface, but for me paddling happily around in the shallows, it was perfectly safe. It seems to be safe for paddle boarders as well, which doesn’t make sense, especially when they aren’t wearing wet suits, but who am I to comment.

Once I’d had my swim Alison deserted me to go exploring on her bike. Along the canals following the route of the WW2 Dessel Battle for the Locks, up the look out tower for a birdseye view of the area and then she found that her marina entry fob let her into Zilvermeer beach and pleasure park. There was swimming here as well as other water sports – but no dogs on the beach, so I didn’t miss anything.

We all went out for dinner at the harbour restuarant. Limited menu as it’s not really the season yet but the food was good and the staff really friendly …. And yes, I went too.

May 28th 2026 Zilvermmer to Emblem

Brian had a long chat with the harbour master yesterday as we are heading into tidal waters but aren’t sure where they begin. The result of the chat was they he wasn’t sure either, but did know that it wasn’t before Emblem and the marina he has recommended. He also suggested we stay on the Dessel Kwaadmechelen rather than retracing our steps back to the van Bocholt canal. It seemed like two sides of a triangle, but with half the number of locks PC Navigo said it was 2 hours quicker. Quicker, but boring….

We entered the Nete Canal at the Viersal sluis then meandered down towards our destination, the small private mooring outside Emblem, and took our place on the long pontoon which effectively makes up the harbour. Everyone was very friendly and soon they were immersed in more discussion about tidal waters and tide timetables. We decided, and the harbour master agreed, to leave at 07.30 tomorrow to catch the advantage of a falling tide. We would then arrive at the Klein Willebroek lock well before low water and pass through leaving the tidal river behind us. Good plan….. then our neighbour came back… Klein Willebroek only opens 2 to 3 hours either side of high tide and high tide wasn’t until about 18.00. What to do? Not really sure but a possibility was to continue onto the Scheldt and then go back on ourselves and through the Van Wintam sluis instead. So we are keeping to the 07.30 start, which is fine by me as it means an early breakfast, then taking advice at the Duffel sluis. This sluis we have discovered is where the tidal water starts.

May 29th 2026 – Emblem to Brussels Royal Yacht Club

It’s amazing how early Brian can get up when he’s on a mission. He was first up, dressed, engine done and ready for off even before I’d finished my walk and had my breakfast. Impressed. Even Roger hadn’t emerged when we left the mooring bang on 07.30. We arrived at Duffel sluis and as we suspected he said the Klein Willebroek sluis won’t open until about 4pm so we should go on to the Van Wintam. He assured us there was plenty of water. There was apart from running aground in some silt from a small river running into the main waterway. It was a bit eerie though, sailing along with mud flats on either side. I wouldn’t like to be there at low water!

We made good time up to the Van Wintam sluis and with no commercial or other boats around, were straight in and out the other side, in perfect time to meet Boris, the engineer, who had driven to Belgium to sort out a few issues with Annapanna. It should have been a quick stop but it wasn’t and 4 hours later a frustrated Boris left us and we were back on our way. A very hot and sticky afternoon on a commercial boat mooring too near the lock for my liking!

Then it was off and through the many bridges of the north Brussels waterway, the Zeekanaal Brussel-Schelde, and onto the Bruxelles Royal Yacht Club for our overnight stay. They have been here before and so knew that despite its grand title it isn’t actually a grand marina. There is a lovely restuarant though in the old club house, a building that still exudes old world style and is obviously very popular with some. Not with me though as the access is via some very open steps made out of horrible metal. Ok for going up but definitely not down. It was quite a performance to get me back on the pontoon after my comfort break, involving Alison, Roger, all the mats available on Annapanna and my full lifting harness! Suffice to say I did not repeat it when they went back for dinner.

May 30th 2026 – Brussels to Ittre

A more leisurely start today although for me it could – and it should – have been a lot earlier. Without access to a comfortable – and private – area for me to do my business, I had no choice but to wait until we got to our destination and by that time I was pretty desperate. RSPA reportable do you think? We travelled in convoy today with Mary Plain, the very new, very smart and very colourful boat belonging to Robert and Alex and with all the locks ready and waiting we made pretty good time – even through the deepest lock in Belgium, Ecluse d’Ittre. We arrived at Port de Plaisance d’Ittre and moored up right outside the capitainerie and cafe. Then I was off, such a relief!!!

We found out after we arrived that the Incline plane at Ronquiere, a few kilometres further on, is shut on Sunday, so we have an enforced couple of nights here. No hardship for anyone and Alison is already planning a bike ride. We settled in…. Then the storm that had been threatening all day hit us with a vengeance. Not just rain though, torrential rain and not just torrential rain but giant sized hail stones as well. It was pretty terrifying but I’m a chilled dog. Glad I was inside though!

May 31st 2026 – Ittre

No moving today so it was cleaning and washing instead. Very boring. I did manage a walk though and headed over to the other side of the canal to check out the competitors in the fishing competition. I’m not sure what fish they were hoping to catch but they had very long rods to do it with. Certainly not very exciting to me although the catering tent, barbecuing sausages for hot dogs, was much more interesting. I wasn’t offered one though, however hard I stared at the chef!

Then Alison set off on her bike. Along the tow path to the Ronquiere to check out the incline plane. She had read that in 2024 it had received millions of euros in funding to replace and update many of the parts of the system and work on the whole project would take several years. Well there was no work being carried out today, so that wasn’t the reason it was shut, but it was clear that only half of the system was in operation, which is going to mean very slow progress tomorrow unless we are very lucky.

In the evening Robert and Alex came round for drinks. Except they brought the drink and the crisps, so I’m not sure how much entertaining we were actually doing! Nice pink fizz, excellent crisps. Please feel free to come again!

June 1st 2026 – Ittre to Thieu

New month, new mooring. A day later than originally planned we set off in the sunshine for the Canal du Centre via two impressive feats of engineering. We didn’t get too far though before our little flotilla of 4 boats was halted – for 2 to 3 hours – whilst commercial boats used the only chamber available on the Ronquiere incline plane. The harbour master at Ittre told us that the chamber was big enough for all of our boats and a commercial one. Not the case. The commercial boat in front of us took up the whole chamber, none of us could get in. But we were a jolly little group moored up by the lift, including our neighbours in Ittre with 2 dogs and a cat, so I wasn’t the only animal around.

Time now for a bit of history. The incline plane was built between 1962 and 1968 and replaced 14 traditional locks on the Brussels-Charleroi canal to allow modern 1350 tonne barges to use the canal. It is 68 metres high with 2 caissons 91metres long and 12 metres wide. Each caisson has its own counterweight, which importantly for us means that one can remain in use whilst the other is being upgraded. It takes about 20 minutes to scale the height.

We did eventually get into the chamber, and by then we were 6, along with an old barge with a learner driver on board. They went into the caisson first, thank goodness, because it was quite terrifying to watch! After what seemed an age they did eventually moor up and fortunately the men in charge of lift realised that it would be safer if we all manoeuvred around them rather than they try to get out first. The little plastic boat by their side will have been very relieved. So we climbed the 68 metres, exited the caisson and were probably on the Canal du Centre before they got out!

By the time we reached the next engineering feat our party had reduced to two, Annapanna and Mary Plain, as we were both heading to Thieu and its Port de Plaisance. Strepy-Thieu boat lift is a much newer structure than the incline plane and was completed in 2002 (although it took 20 years to complete). With a height difference of just over 73 metres, it was the tallest boat lift in the world until China built the Three Gorges Dam lift in 2016. With only a short wait we both entered the caisson and this time dropped the 73 metres to canal below. Then it was through a little self controlled lock and into the old arm of the Canal du Centre and the Port du Plaisance. The Strepy-Thieu lift replaced 4 smaller lifts on an old arm of the canal and these lifts, still in working order, are a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Port de Plaisance is situated in the pound below lift number 4 and from our mooring we had a wonderful view of both the old and new lift.

I like this marina, even if there isn’t anywhere to swim. There’s lots of grass, smells to investigate and rabbits to ignore. There is even another dog , a friendly dalmation, who I deigned to play with for a millisecond or two before realising that trying to get into his motorhome was much more interesting. Then it was drinks time again, but this time the hosts were Alex and Robert. And I wasn’t invited. Don’t worry Alex I don’t take offence – I just had to dream of all those crisps instead.

June 2nd 2026 – Thieu to Mons

Only a short trip today so plenty of time for Alison to first run and then cycle along the old canal. During the early morning run she got caught in a thunderstorm and during the cycle ride, choosing to ignore the diversion signs, ended up wading through thick, very sticky mud! Glad I wasn’t there. The reason there was a diversion is because between old lift 1 and 2 they have dug up the canal as part of some development work at La Louviere. Alison says it looks like it’s for a metro but she could be wrong. We have since discovered that the little museum by lift 1 closed at the end of last year so all this doesn’t bode well. It is a World Heritage site though and I’m sure they wouldn’t want to lose that, so hopefully it’s just a short break.

We arrived in the marina at Mons in the sunshine and were directed to our lovely alongside mooring by the harbourmaster. By this time we knew that Mary Plain was coming too so he saved a place for them directly behind us…. More crisps maybe? Or maybe not. Then Alison and I went to find the harbour office to pay our dues and get the QR code for the gate. Unfortunately, the office was on the first floor of the building and access was via the dreaded metal steps, so I was tied up at the bottom. Then it rained, it really rained and I couldn’t move anywhere! I got very, very wet. Another RSPCA incident I think. Eventually a dry Alison appeared and we decided to take shelter in the restaurant whilst checking out the menu for the evening. Then Robert and Alex arrived and they all decided to eat together at the harbour restaurant. No crisps then… again. Good meal I believe, too much food they said. So where was my doggy bag?

Before dinner Alison set off on the Brompton for a shopping and sightseeing trip. A couple of hours later she came back heavily laden and in a bad mood. Google maps had brought her back on busy main roads without a cycle path. She was not impressed. She was impressed though by the ultramodern railway station and some of the buildings in the old town. The main square was a hive of activity getting ready for some sort of concert later in the evening. Luckily we didn’t have to go, as I don’t like loud music.

June 3rd 2026 – Mons to Valenciennes

This morning we said goodbye to Robert and Alex as they were off to move their car before heading to Valenciennes – and we’ll have left when they get there on Friday. Our journey to Valenciennes was very straightforward, no long waits at the locks and whatever PC Navigo thought was an obstruction was in fact a shallow pond at the side of the canal. Very odd. There was a small issue with the first lock on the Canal du Centre as we had VHF 22 but at some point it must have changed to VHF20. The lock keeper found us though, so all was ok. We took a short cut route via the Canal Pommeroeul-Conde, a small link system that had been closed for a while but fortunately for us is now open, reducing our journey time by at least an hour or so.

Then we arrived in the Port de Plaisance in Valenciennes. Alison had rung the harbour master to book a space and she said she would meet us at the marina. But…. we made better time than expected and got there early. Now if their French was a bit better than very, very poor (unlike me as I can speak all languages in dog lingo) what happened next would not have happened. Alison rang the harbour master again to say we had arrived and she said, she thinks, to go to one zero, but as she was speaking in french it would have been une zero, so it didn’t make sense. She asked her to repeat several times but each time it sounded like one zero, so off we went looking for number 10! Then, and this wasn’t our fault, an old woman in a moored boat directed us to the end of the marina, right by the weir! As there was a boat on one zero we decided to try to moor up on a different empty finger. But the current was strong, sending us nearer and nearer the stop cables before the weir. Stop cables that would not have stopped a 20 ton steel motor yacht! Amazingly, we managed to get into the mooring, but not without a meeting of minds between the bow and the end of the pontoon. A bit of touch up paint required at some point! Well we were in, but traumatised, especially Brian who had the responsibility of trying to steer a very heavy vessel at 90 degrees to a strong current. We couldn’t even contemplate what it would be like getting out.

Twenty minute or so later the harbour master arrived and Alison, armed with google translate, went to meet to her. Between her, her partner and google, Alison managed to understand that the weir opens and closes during the day when large ships go through the nearby lock. As we had gone through the lock with a commercial ship they had obviously opened the weir just as we arrived! They were impressed we had managed to moor under the open weir conditions – so well done Brian. Not managing does not bear thinking about. The relief we felt when we realised that all we had to do when we left was watch and wait, then move when the weir was closed, was immense. Although it never really became clear, we think that one zero was the waiting pontoon, although “pontoon d’attente” sounds nothing like “one zero”. The lady harbour master and her partner were delightful and said if we wanted we could moor overnight on the waiting pontoon, with electricity and water nearby. We jumped at the chance and moved very easily ten minutes after the weir closed.

The weather is not good at the moment, it is wet and windy but fortunately not too cold. As you will recall from yesterday I was tied up outside the harbour masters office in torrential rain whilst Alison was snug and warm inside the office. One drenching is enough for me, but today I got another one! Alison decided, as Alison does, that she needed to explore the town but the weather did not encourage it. So after dinner she took the opportunity of a break in rain and set off, with Roger and me, towards the main town square, Place d’Armes. We checked out the Hotel du Ville and a 45 metre high obelisk at the end of the square. The metal structure, named Valenciennes, is punctured with holes making 2000 words collected from the local population. We tried to work out a pattern but we now think the words are formed randomly. We now know that it was designed by a French artist, Jean-Bernard Metais and erected on the exact site of the old medieval befry. As a contemporary interpretation of a belfry it symbolises municipal freedom and power in northern France. But you didn’t know any of that!

On the way back it rained and I mean threw it down. It was so bad Alison called a Pet UBER. It arrived a minute later and said they could only take pets in cages! Since when? Not in Denmark or Sweden. Not impressed, what did he think I was going to do? Anyway, by the time we had finished arguing about it the rain had eased off, so a very bedraggled group arrived back at Annapanna a little later. I was promised a drink in a buzzing main square, not another soaking from above! Not impressed!

June 4th 2026 – Valenciennes to Sains -les-Marquion

We left our mooring at the Valescaut port de plaisance intending to spend the night at Estrun in the Bassin Rond at the junction of the Escault a Grand Gabarit and the Canal de la Sensee. I had been enticed by walks round the bassin, possible swimming and water sports, but as we were there by 1.30pm and it seemed quite shallow they decided we should carry on. So we did. Onto the Canal du Nord and south to a mooring mentioned in our ancient Fluviacarte and Captains Mate. It took us a while to find the mooring as the banks were so overgrown they were hiding the bollards – plus we were looking on the wrong side (as shown on the Fluviacarte). The delay was fine though as, just for a change, it was chucking it down! We eventually moored behind a deserted barge and after much trampling, had a neat little track to the towpath road behind it. If anyone decides to moor there in the next few days it will be quite a good indication of a suitable sport mooring.

Then we explored, Alison and I. Into the village of Sains-les-Marquion across the bridge. No shops, no cafe, no restaurant. There were people though and a village green with a church and war memorial, but that’s about it. I thought we were in for another soaking but luckily this time we managed to get back to the boat in time!

June 5th 2026 – Sains-les-Marquion to Peronne

Leaving our rural mooring early (well for Brian early) meant we made good time through the remaining locks on the Canal du Nord and a 4K long tunnel and arrived at the Port de Plaisance in Peronne by mid afternoon. What did we expect? Certainly not a smart harbour and probably full of weed – and we were right on both counts. It’s odd really as the campsite attached to the harbour IS smart, with decent pitches and a nice little swimming pool. There is a bar, a little shop and importantly for Jas and Chris who arrive by car in a couple of weeks, somewhere to park. But the weeds……. Lots of green stuff that clogged the filter and upset the thrusters. We were also the only visiting boat there – and how can you make anywhere look smart when the boats in the harbour look so lost and forgotten.

After mooring up and visiting the reception, with its handy little shop, Alison set off to find the supermarket and check out the town. Amazingly, the first thing she came across was Blackburn Bridge. It appears that in 2024, as part of the 100 year anniversary of the official opening of the bridge, a plaque was erected in the presence of the two towns mayors. Blackburn with Darwin in Peronne, who would have thought it!

June 6th 2026 – Peronne to Cappy

I was left home alone this morning as they headed off into town and the castle which housed Historical, Museum of the Great War. Very impressive I believe and gave some good background information on why and what actually happened at the start of the war. If you go don’t miss the video at the beginning of the tour.

Then we left our weedy mooring, which incidentally now had two more visiting boats (but didn’t look any less tatty) and set off on our Canal de Somme exploration. We didn’t get far though before coming to a halt. We knew that we would get all the information about the canal at the first lock, but there was no one there. We rang the number, no reply. We keep ringing…. No reply. In the end they returned our call and all was sorted…. Fifteen minutes later a lock keeper arrived armed with lots of info – and he was going to accompany us all the way to Cappy. Perfect – and very efficient. We moored up outside the Base Nautique in what definitely feels like a bit of a holiday area. There were grassy areas, deck chairs, games, bicycle hire and ice cream….. The only down side was the restaurant in the village. With good reviews on line Alison tried to book dinner earlier in the day but they said they were fully booked. When we arrived she thought she would just go and check and ask about cancellations. It was shut. At 7pm, when it should have opened, it was shut. On the back porch was a delivery of eggs, veg and dried up looking herbs. Very odd. Tomorrow we shall try to find out more!

July 7th 2026 – Cappy

No moving today, or at least not by boat, as we had booked a trip on Le Petit Train de la Haute Somme (the Little Train of the High Somme). So after Alison had cycled to Bray, found the museum she wanted to visit didn’t open until July, and cycled back, it was time to set off on our walk along the towpath to the next village of Foissey and the station with its museum. There is a lot of history surrounding this 60cm line as it was built in 1916 for the Battle of the Somme. Originally, these narrow gauge lines were used in industry but by the late 19th century it was realised that they could also be of great use for military purposes – for supplying resources, including personnel, to and from the front line. So a military specific 60cm railway was developed that could be laid at a rate of 10km a day and was easily adapted to different ground conditions. By the end of the war in 1918, there was 300kms of 60cm line serving the eastern part of the Somme alone. After the war the Ministry of Liberated Regions (MLR) were tasked with organising and re-building from the ruins and they used the 60cm lines to support it. The lines were used to remove rubble, bring in building materials and provide supplies and transport to the population who had begun to re-settle in the devastated areas. Sold in 1924 to a private company they connected many local industries to it via branch lines. One of these was the sugar refineries as the network and its flexible track allowed for the collection of sugar beet directly from the fields. At this point, as part of major improvements, a 236 metre long tunnel through Cappy was added to the network. In 1954 the network was dismantled apart from the Dompiere – Cappy section, the very section we travelled on today. This section has been preserved and developed by a society of volunteers since 1970 and runs as a tourist attraction throughout the year.

Our little trip from Froissy travelled along the Somme to Cappy port, climbed up to the tunnel, continued through the woods on a zig-zag track and emerged on the Santerre plateau. The steam train which pulled us along the Somme was built in 1916, specifically for the war. Before climbing up to the tunnel we swapped to diesel, with better pulling power. This engine was built in 1941 for the sugar industry. Here indeed the lesson on 60cm lines!

Back at Annapanna we sat on the bank in deckchairs – well not me obviously, deckchairs are not designed for dogs – before trying out the hidden and relaxing garden behind the Bar Epicurie Escal’ibur. Very friendly people, Lupo the alsation the budgies, a guinea pig and a tortoise. They serve good cocktails too, I believe. Incidentally, the restaurant over the bridge was closed all day – and the eggs and veg are still there!

June 8th 2026 – Cappy to Corbie

Very weedy day today although some pounds were definitely better than others. The weed choppers are working hard but I think they need a lot more of them! I think the advice is, don’t come on the Somme if you’re worried about seeing water under the keel because most of the time you won’t see any! I can’t comment on the overall waterway until we get to the end, but from information we have received it appears that today’s section is the worst, so let’s hope so. As an aside, we have just read that, as part of the efforts being made to reduce or even eliminate this Invasive Exotic Species, Myriophyllum,, the Department Council are also carrying out experiments such as dyeing the canal blue over the first 14 kilometres. Now we know why it looked so greenish (rather than blueish).

After a short moor up before the Sally-Laurette lock for the obligatory lunch break, we arrived at Corbie in plenty of time to explore the area. Well Alison did! It was windy, cold and often wet, so I was very happy to be left on board whilst she cycled off. Then the best thing happened. Our mooring on the edge of town was right outside a campsite with lots of green play areas and for the first time in what seems years the ball came out. I was one happy and then exhausted dog. Thank you Roger. Friend for life – even without all the biscuits. They are busy extending the pontoon at our mooring and installing a pump out and after exploring the other options in town concluded that this was definitely the best one. It’s quiet but near the town, has a frog chorus from the nearby pond to lull you to sleep and has water and electricity.

Alison came back from her cycle a bit cold and a bit wet but had managed to get round all the main sites including the Australian National Memorial and cemetery. She was too late to go round the St John Monash Centre unfortunately. We have come to realise that in this part of the Somme the Australian army are revered for their part in liberating the area during world war 1 and the centre,the contrary and the impressive memorial pay tribute to that.

June 9th 2026 – Corbie to Amiens

The efficient and friendly service continued today, even though we were a bit tardy in booking our passage. We set off at 9.30am and straight into the lock at Corbie. We nearly went straight through it too as Brian had not checked his reverse gear when setting off! Anyway, we did stop but not before giving the lock keeper a bit of a hearI attack! A few reverses threw the offending weed off the propeller and all was ok. Do not forget next time Brian! The section of the Somme between Corbie and Amiens was very pretty and relatively weed free, which certainly made a change from yesterday. We made such good progress we were in Amiens by lunchtime, although the early finish didn’t help us as the pontoon by Pont d’Amont in the middle of town was full – with the two German boats we saw yesterday and a large British barge. We then realised that there were rings on the wall between the trip boat mooring and the pontoon, so after checking with the trip boat captain, we moored up against the wall at a perfect height for me to jump on and off.

Then it was laundry time. Unlike the Netherlands, where laundromats do not exist, France is full of them. Usually very modern and sometimes even with those giant ironing rollers, you never have to walk far to find one in a city or large town. Although we do have a washing machine on board we need the weather to help with drying large items like towels and bedding and the weather isn’t playing ball (a bit like me – apart from the other day). So off Alison went with the old biddy shopping trolley full of washing, to the super modern laundromat nearby.

Laundry completed we all walked into the centre of town to check out the very impressive Our Lady’s Cathedral. Built between 1220 and 1270 it became a world heritage site in 1981 and is renowned for its gothic and other sculptures. Although it has apparently lost much of its original stained glass windows in a fire (in the warehouse where they were stored for safe keeping during the war), there is still plenty to admire and considering the role of Amiens as a strategic hub during WW1 and WW2, it is amazingly intact. Apparently it gained diplomatic immunity after an appeal from the Vatican during WW1!

Amiens is a city and a lively one at that, especially at the English pub just across the car park from the boat! But it also has restaurants and unlike the ones they tried to book over the previous few days, these are they are all open! So they booked La Lobby, a Michelin mentioned restaurant by the bridge all of 5 minutes walk away. Of course I wasn’t invited, but I did get a doggy bag from Roger. Very nice piece of steak thank you. They recommend La Lobby, it was very cosy, very friendly and the food very good. It also has a lovely garden for alfresco dining – if it wasn’t raining and cold!

June 10th 2026 – Amiens

Another day here to explore the city. Of course that means sightseeing and you all know how much I love that pastime. We left the boat and walked up to the cathedral square in time to board the Petit Train at 11am. But it didn’t go anywhere. As Alison had checked with the tourist office earlier she went back to find out what was happening. The owner had cancelled the 11am train, which of course is his prerogative, but irritating nevertheless. The next one was at 2pm so off we set on a walk around town – to Horloge Dewailly, the spiky and unusual clock commissioned at the end of the 19th century by the mayor of the city. Then it was down to the Belfry, another World Heritage Site via the Hotel de Ville and then into the very smart indoor market in Belfry Square. The highlight for me was lunch. We were told by Oslo, a friendly bloodhound we met on the street, that the Creperie was very dog friendly and it certainly was. Before we even sat down I was asked if I’d like some ham. Some ham! Definitely a step up from biscuits!

Then it was back to the Cathedral square for the 2pm train, via the macaron shop for some of Amiens famous cakes. I’m not sure what I thought of this Little Train. Everyone thought I was sleeping, well I thought I was sleeping, but after the trip I found I was shaking – and I never shake. Weird. I soon recovered though, in case you’re concerned. The train trip was more than an hour, visited all the main sights including Jules Verne’s house, the Circus Building, the museum of Picardie, Les Hortillonnages; a network of canals through a maze of fruit and vegetables gardens where you can take a little boat trip, Tour Perret and the atmospheric streets of St Leu. Would they recommend it? Yes, I think so, although it was all a bit quick and the commentary in French. Afterwards we all wondered back to the boat through the lovely quant streets of Saint Leu where Alison bought some Somme appropriate earrings from a little artisan shop.

Then I was left again whilst they went out for mussels and chips at one of the restaurants on Quay Belu. I really wasn’t bothered though as I’d had enough town walking by then.

June 11th 2025 – Amiens to Long

All I can say is that the weather IS going to get better, so when we turn around and retrace our steps we will see this beautiful waterway in the sunshine! I know that some of these photos look like it was lovely and sunny, but let me assure you, it could not be trusted! Today though, it has been pretty constant rain and it’s such a shame as Long, where we are moored up tonight, is so pretty. Alison and I have explored the town though. We peered through the gates at Chateau de Bussy and admired the beautiful terraces, walked up to the large church with a commanding view over the valley, admired the impressive Hotel de Ville and checked out the restaurant (looks good but we ate in tonight). The church was locked so we couldn’t check out the famous pipe organ – apparently crafted by a well known organ builder and now a classified instrument. If you think this description makes it seem like Long was a wealthy town, then you’d be correct. And it was and all because of peat. Tons of it was extracted locally, up to a depth of 7 metres, resulting in what is now an area with some of the greatest concentrations of ponds in the Somme valley. The wealth from the peat enabled Long to build its own hydroelectric station which supplied the village with power between 1903 and 1968. It is now a small museum and open to the public, but we didn’t go as we’d had enough of the rain by then!

June 12th 2026 – Long to Saint Valery

Well it took a while but eventually we got to St Valery, or more precisely, Pinchefalise, a village on the other side of the lifting bridge to the St Valery mooring. We were warned in Abbeville that the last two places on the mooring will have been taken by the boats we have been following since Cappy – just as they did in Amiens – and no one else was moving. There is supposed to be a 72 hour limit on each mooring but as no one polices it no one takes any notice. It is very irritating! Anyway, I said it took a while because we had a 5 hour wait in Abbeville waiting for low water (from Abbeville the Somme is tidal) so we could get under the bridge just past the Abbeville lock. The brilliant “sommoliers” as Brian has christened them, kept us informed of the water level and the delay allowed Alison to explore the town and Roger and Brian to explore the large Carrefour Drive nearby. So here we are outside the lovely little village of Pinchefalise, which is absolutely perfect for me. There is a stream I can play in, lots of grass and plenty of dog walkers – oh and their dogs – to talk to. There is a major problem though, we have no water. The water in Abbeville wasn’t working and there are no services on the very smart pontoon here. We have to get water tomorrow, so if no one moves we will have to moor off for a while to fill up. There is another issue too, the distance from the mooring into town. Alison biked in this evening to check things out. Lovely town, lots of restaurants and pretty streets. Tomorrow we will spend most of the day there – including another train ride – which I think, or hope, will be better than the one in Amiens.

June 13th 2026 – SaintValery

First thing this morning Alison cycled up to the Saint Valery mooring, spoke to the French owners of a small barge and arranged to moor off them whilst we got water. No one had moved so we were expecting to move back to my perfect mooring afterwards. But…whilst we were filling up we were told a boat was moving – down to our pontoon – so we could stay. And we did. I still prefer the other mooring though, but admit that for the non bikers it is a long way out of town. All wasn’t lost though as Alison had left her bike down at Pinchfalise so we both walked down to get it…… and have a swim with a ball! Perfect, well it was. I was definitely OK when I got out of the water but I definitely wasn’t OK by the time we got back to the boat. I have no idea what I did, but I do know that my off side elbow was very sore!

I didn’t want to go exploring, so sat down and refused to move. Alison took me back to the boat, gave me some wonder drug – Metacam (or arthrocam as it’s called now) and left me to rest…… All day! She did keep cycling back to check up on me and let me out, but I was quite happy stretched out on the sofa nursing my wounds. Whilst I was playing the part of the invalid and feeling sorry for myself, they wandered around the town, had lunch, then caught the Baie de Somme steam train to Le Crotoy and back. The verdict: Beautifully kept steam trains and carriages but the journey was a bit disappointing as they were expecting views of the bay but most of the route was too far inland for that. I know Alison wished she had stayed in Saint Valery and explored some more instead, but I think Roger was happy as he loves steam trains. Finally, after drinks at the Brunch bar they had dinner at La Percharie near the steam train station.

June 14th 2026 – Saint Valery to Long

The super efficient sommoliers contacted Brian yesterday to say we had to be at the first swing bridge at 9am and then travel at 10 kph to ensure we could pass under the bridge before the Abbeville lock. We were there before 9 and off we went, passing under the bridge with 15cms to spare about 2 hours later. We are so impressed with them.

After a short shopping stop in Abbeville we continued on our way……. In the sunshine! What a difference a bit of warmth makes. We didn’t really make any big plans today as we were never too confident about the bridge, but hoped we might get to Picquigny. Without the shopping stop and then enforced lunch break we might have made it, but it was touch and go, so we decided to have another night in Long, but this time in the sunshine not pouring rain.

June 14th 2026 – Long to Amiens

Slightly later start today as we wanted to get to the Samara mooring before the obligatory lunch hour. We made perfect time and were helped into our mooring by a sommolier who had just arrived to start his lunch. Samara has a lovely little pontoon and picnic area amongst the trees a kilometre or two beyond Picquigny, so we could quite see why it would be a favorite place for a lunch break. So what does a sommolier eat for lunch? Beer, sandwiches and lots and lots of crisps – sounds just like my sort of lunch – but they didn’t offer me any!

Then we all set off to go round Samara but discovered at the entry kiosk that dogs aren’t allowed. Maybe they think we might scare the prehistoric animals or dig up the excavations. Who knows. I don’t because I then went back to the boat with Roger, so that was the end of my education for the day. Alison and Brian continued though, so I feel I need to tell you a bit about what Samara is all about. Described as a natural park and archeological site, it is an arboretum and a regional development project that recreates the habitats of ancient civilizations based on local archaeological evidence. There is a museum in an unusually designed pavilion with exhibits that explain what life was like from Paleolithic through to gallo-Roman times. Outside in the grounds are reconstructions of settlements with artisans working on looms, pottery, metalwork etc. But there were also hoards of school children – so getting near to some of the demonstrations was difficult. Brilliant education for the children though. Finally, there was the Marais, an area of wetland and a favorable ecosystem for rare and protected species.

When they came back we moved on and are now back in Amiens opposite the English pub in Port d’Amont. This time we thought we’d better try the English pub, so off we went for a beer. The verdict? Well the bar looked like a British pub but that’s about it!

June 16th 2026 – Amiens to Corbie

We did plan to stay in some different places on our return journey but it hasn’t actually worked out that way. So tonight we are back in Corbie on the pontoon outside the caravan park – but this time the sun is shining and there are people around. We are even sharing the pontoon with another Linssen, a Classic Sturdy belonging to a French couple and a lovely little tug, owned by an Aussie couple. We had a beautiful trip here along the Somme in the sunshine and stopped for a couple of hours by the lock at Daours so Alison could have a nosy around the village. Very smart town hall, lovely boulangerie and a very old pigeonnaire in the grounds of an old chateau.

June 17th 2026 – Corbie to Cappy

Back into the weed and the blue/green dyed water. In fact we all agree it is a bit better than 2 weeks ago, so either the dying is working or the weed choppers have been doing a good job. Don’t get too excited though, there is still plenty about! It is now hot and sunny and due to get even hotter at the weekend. I need my water!

We knew that one the locks we were going to go through today was at the place that Wilfred Owen wrote one of his famous poems. Wilfred Owen, in case you didn’t know, was one of our foremost war poets who was killed in action 7 days before the Armistice. He was 25 years old. He had previously been stationed on the Somme and wrote “Hospital Barge at Cerisy” whilst sitting near the lock at Sally-Laurette watching the slow movement of the barges as they took the injured soldiers away from the front. The lock has a little stele in memorial and an information post.

We arrived at Cappy in the heat of the afternoon and initially moored right next to the slipway. Oh my, was I excited! There were loads of people about playing in the blue water, so if it was safe for them, it must be safe for me. Off I jumped and straight in the water, heaven! We then had to move as the person in the old hire boat shed said we were on permanent mooring so couldn’t get power – and in this heat we needed power. The only disappointment with lovely Cappy was that our favourite bar and garden was shut on Wednesdays. The restaurant too, although we haven’t actually seen that open yet! So sorry Lupo, I missed you.

June 18th 2026 – Cappy to Peronne

Should we have left? That’s the debate. A bit too late Alison thought we should stay in Cappy until Sunday and Jas and Chris could meet us there. Thinking it through logically last night perhaps we would have stayed – and I would love to have stayed as I could have swum again…. And again…. And met Lupo.. and the tortoise and the Guinea pig. But we didn’t stay and accompanied by the only female sommolier on the entire river/canal we passed through 2 swing bridges and 3 locks in a couple of hours, arriving at the ultra weedy and tatty Port du Plaisance in Peronne before lunch. The port is desperately in need of some TLC as are many of the boats permanently moored there, but the adjacent campsite is smart and buzzing. It’s a tale of two halves. A neighbour in Cappy reckons the owner of the campsite inherited the harbour but wasn’t really interested in it and VNF, the French waterway managers, aren’t either. So sad, as it is such a strategic point on the canal du Nord and near the start of a Somme exploration for so many, it could be very popular.

The big advantage for them, rather than me, is that there is a swimming pool here, so after a big washing and cleaning session in the heat, Alison went off for a swim. Good for her! Dogs not allowed. I just panted the afternoon away as I’m certainly not swimming in that weed! We did all go to the bar in the evening though and it was very busy…

June 19th 2026 – Peronne

Quite a lazy day for me today as it was very, very hot. We did manage a walk along the tow path, which I think is the start of the Somme cycle path and we even found somewhere weed free for me to get into the water. It was ok but I’d prefer the swimming pool. Jas and Chris arrived by car at lunchtime, so it was all change for Roger on the cabin front though fortunately not for me. After lunch and another fruitless search for gas, Jas and Chris went off to the War museum and Alison and I went to lie down on the grass in the shade. Then it was more swimming (for them) and a trip to the bar for all of us.

June 20th 2026 – Peronne

Day one; battle sites, war memorials and museums. All I can say, on behalf of all of us, thank goodness Jas’s car had air con! It’s getting hotter and hotter and I’m not sure how I’m going to manage without access to water at all times.

We followed the suggested route in Le Circuit du Souvenir, an informative pamphlet you can pick up at any information site. To make it easier for me to organise my thoughts I’m listing these sites under specific headings.

Rancourt, La Chapelle du Souvenir Francais and cemeteries

With separate British, French and German cemeteries it has the largest French cemetery in the Somme and contains the graves of 8566 soldiers. The chapel was build by an association set up by Matilde Du Bos, in remembrance of her son, Jean Du Bos, who was killed in action and is buried at the exact spot he died in September 1916. It is a beautiful and moving personal legacy.

Longueval – Deville Wood South African Memorial

A beautiful memorial dedicated to the 10,000 South African soldiers, both British and Africaan, who perished in the war. Designed by Sir Herbert Baker and unveiled in 1926, it is known as the memorial in the woods. The Woods which surrounds the memorial were completely destroyed during the battle of Deville Wood but were replanted many years ago and the area is now a mature woodland with several shady walking paths (one named Rotten Row).

La Boiselle – Lochnagar Crater

Lochnagar crater was created by a British underground mine detonated on the 1st July 1916 beneath the German front line, on what was the first day of the battle of the Somme. Unfortunately the mine fell short of its purpose allowing the German’s time to regroup with the result of massive loss of life for the Allies. The crater, privately preserved by a foundation, stands as a memorial dedicated to peace and reconciliation. It is a testament to the many people, both German and Allies, who suffered in the war. Surrounding the crater are boards with personal stories, written either by survivors or relatives of those who perished. It is possibly the most moving WW1 site we visited.

Thiepval Memorial

Thiepval is the largest memorial in the world, commemorating over 72,000 missing from the Battle of the Somme. That is 72,000 soldiers and civilians never found and without graves. Within the memorial are the names of those missing and where they came from. I have included a photo showing Baupaume, a small town in Pas-de-Calais with under 4000 inhabitants, and the names of their missing, hundreds and hundreds of names.

The memorial, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and inaugurated in 1932, now stands as a symbol of the Anglo-French Alliance. Behind the memorial are 600 graves, 300 French and 300 Commonwealth lying side by side as brothers in arms.

Avelui Communal Cemetery

Whilst we were at Thiepval Jas spoke to one of the volunteers from the Commonwealth War Graves Foundation and discovered they kept records of where all the soldiers were buried – and a copy of those records were kept within the memorial. She got them out and found the name of Jas’s great uncle and his burial place. So our final visit of today was to the military part of the communal cemetery in the small village of Aveluy to visit the grave of Lieutenant T B Coultas of the East Yorkshire Regiment. A very personal note to end an emotional, thought provoking and very hot day.

It is too hot to leave me on board so everywhere they go, I go. That means I go out to dinner whether I want to or not. I did not want to. All I wanted to do was sleep… but …. I also went into Peronne for dinner. Nice restaurant just outside the museum with a shady table and cool flagged ground. A bowl of water and 3 biscuits later I was out cold. The day exhausted me.

June 21st 2026 – Peronne

Day 2: Battlesites, war memorials and museums

Ulster Tower

The memorial for the soldiers of the 36th (Ulster) division dedicated on the 19th November 1921 making it one of the first war memorials on the Western Front. The design of the tower was inspired by Helen’s Tower in County Down, Northern Ireland and inspired by the fact that the 36th division trained on the estate where the tower was situated.

Beaumont-Hamel – Newfoundland Memorial

Another beautiful memorial just outside the village of Beaumont-Hamel dedicated to the Newfoundland soldiers, many of whom died defending this area on the first day of the Somme battle on the 1st July 1916. The 74 acre park is a preserved battlefield site where the trenches and shell holes are still clearly visible. A walk around the site takes you through part of a trench and around the fields down to the German front line.

Albert – Somme 1916 Museum

And so to Albert and the 1916 museum established in underground tunnels which runs underneath the Place d’Armes and emerges in the City Park. Alison and I were going to wait in the cool of reception whilst the others went round the museum but then the man on the desk said of course dogs could go in! That was a turn up. so we wandered through the nice cool tunnels which present displays detailing the daily life of a soldier in the trenches. There were images and videos and finally a sound and light tunnel demonstrating what it would have been like with constant shell fire and explosions. We speeded up through that bit. It was all very impressive and an airport see end to our Somme explore.

In the evening Jas Chris and Alison went off into town for a midsummer concert. The headline band promised a variety of music to sing a long and dance to. What they got was head banging stuff that nobody danced to. Shame, not like the Rubettes Ian!

June 22nd 2026 – Peronne to Pont l’Eveque

A very sad day today. It was time to say goodbye to my great friend Roger. Jas took him to Albert to catch his train to Lille and then Eurostar to London. He has been with us for a month and I will really miss him. So will Brian as he won’t have anyone to do all his jobs for him! Roger on the other hand needs to go home for a rest……

When Jas got back from Albert we said goodbye to Jas’s car and headed south on the Canal du Nord en route to Paris. Traveling through the Tunnel of Panneterie, which gave us a very short respite from the oppressive heat, we arrived at that quay in Pont L’Eveque. Unfortunately the only place with suitable mooring rings – and in the shade – was already taken, so out came the ancient directors chairs and we moved onto the shaded quay. Then we went in search of the river and a swim, but as we were on the wrong bank I had a long walk up to the bridge and back to exactly opposite Annapanna just to get in the water. It was worth every single step!

June 23rd 2026 – Pont L’Eveque to Compiegne

Today we left the Canal du Nord and continued south west on Le Canal Lateral a L’Oise et L’Oise. Our destination was the lovely town of Compiegne. They have been here before and so headed to the quay in the middle of town rather than the port de plaisance and as we got a really good mooring under the shade of some trees it was all good for me too – even if it did mean using my ramp to get on and off. Chris and Alison went for a wander round the town – and of course the supermarket – then we all went out to dinner. OK, it was nearby and had a lovely terrace over the water (that was far to hot to sit on) but as we were just about the only customers I don’t think we could really recommend it. The town centre was buzzing though, so if you happen to be passing and it isn’t nudging 40 degrees, maybe venture a little further for dinner.

June 24th 2026 – Compiegne to Port L’Isle Adam

Compeigne is famous as a royal and imperial town and has one of the largest royal residences in France. Built in the 18th century and re-modeled by two Napoleons, it is surrounded by beautiful parkland and gardens. Jas and Chris hadn’t been before and Alison felt like another look, so off they set in the morning for a bit of sightseeing. Far too hot for me, even if dogs were allowed. I think it was too hot for them too as they retreated to the Rose Garden cafe for drinks and cake. Now I could have coped with that bit! Unfortunately, the weather seemed to have taken its toll on the roses too, as they were definitely past their best.

It was supposed to be a short day today as our original destination was Creil, but we didn’t like the quay mooring and the proposed port de plaisance doesn’t seem to be moving on very far, or fast. Sorry Creil, maybe another time. Anyway, it was very hot and and the only breeze was from the movement of Annapanna, so we were all happy to go on to Port L’Isle Adam, a fairly new, purpose built marina just before the L’Isle Adam lock. It was just before the lock too… we thought we’d missed the turning …. But then there it was, a little lock, a friendly harbour master and marina surrounded by restaurants. Perfect, well nearly. I so needed a swim but the water at the slipway looked distinctly dodgy, so I wasn’t allowed in. Just a note here… between Creil and L’Isle Adam was what appeared to be a good mooring at Boran-sur-Oise. There seemed to be electricity, shady trees and a restaurant. We didn’t stop but if L’Adam is too far for you it is worth checking this out.

June 25th 2026 – Port L’Isle Adam

L’Isle Adam was supposed to be tonight’s destination so it meant we could have two nights here and that was all good by me as this morning the dodgy water by the slipway had miraculously disappeared, so I was allowed to swim. Heaven. They got a swim too as in the afternoon Jas, Chris and Alison set off for the La Plage, a man made beach, sports area and two swimming pools. It was absolutely packed. Definitely not my cup of tea, give me a slipway any day. But they swam, lounged on the beach, had an ice cream and generally cooled down… for about an hour or so!

In the morning before their swimming adventure Alison got on her bike to explore the town. She loved the little town. Still wall to wall restaurants, but some lovely shops as well plus a pretty little church and town hall. There is a pontoon right in the town centre and if its free we might moor there on our way back.

June 26th 2026 – Port L’Isle Adam to Port Cergy

From one PortMeirion type marina to another. We love these places. The Creil one is supposed to be similar, if they ever get it built, but as it looks like they’ve put a very low bridge at the entrance we’ll never be able to get in anyway. So on to Port Cergy, the original toytown port. They have been here before with my predecessor and remember the metal gangways off the pontoons. Steep and sharp I thought I might have to wear boots – and in this heat boots are not welcome! But just in time I remembered I used to be an expert metal pontoon walker and so had no issues walking up and down, even though it was steep. I couldn’t do it for long though and it definitely gave me a pedicure on my various trips to shore.

What they like about Cergy is that it is right in the town – and it’s a lovely traditional town. What I like about it is the access to the water. Ok, it says no swimming, but that’s for humans, not dogs and on checking it had nothing to do with the water quality but was the result of an unfortunately accident involving a child. It all seems a bit over the top though as when Alison wandered down to the nearby nature area and Etang (that’s lake to you and me) there was no swimming there either. There was a beach and water sports but you were only allowed to paddle. Odd, don’t you think?

Before I sign off about Port Cergy I need to give any travelling yachtsmen a bit of advice. As much as we like Port Cergy, compared to Port L’Isle Adam it is small and doesn’t seem to have too much visitor mooring. It is probably advisable to book – but if you’re coming from Port L’Isle Adam the lovely harbourmaster will do that for you as it’s under the same management.

June 27th 2026 – Port Cergy to Rueil Malmaison

Another shortish day to another place they have been before. Rueil Malmaison is a Halte Nautique, not a marina. In other words it is just a long pontoon without power or water. It is a lovely stop though and if it’s full there is another one across the river in Chatou-Croissy. Behind the pontoon is a park called Parc des Impressionnistes which follows the Seine and has impressionist artists pictures at the point they painted the view. But as with the one we saw by the bridge in Pontoise, things have changed so much it was difficult to work out exactly what was what.

Also behind the pontoon are restaurants and a new – 2025 – fountain. It was hot and the fountain very inviting. Of course it said no swimming but I couldn’t swim in it anyway. Just standing there in the cold water was all I needed. Then Little Dick came down and Jas and Alison rowed over to Chatou to go to the Impressionist museum. It was shut – although there was someone on reception and she said they could wander round and view the pictures on the walls in atrium. They then went for a drink before rowing back for a swim and paddle board. Then a work friend of Jas’s who lived nearby came for drinks, except it was so hot on board we had to go to a restaurant instead. It was hot and noisy with load music playing right in my ear, so I left, or at least tried to. Alison then took pity on me and took me back to the boat.

Who knows how many storms we’ve had on this trip, too many to count – but this was a big one and they weren’t quick enough! An almighty wind blew out of nowhere and although they managed to get the canvas down, they didn’t manage to zip and strap it up. Everything on deck was soaked – plus a single mattress and all the bedding! It took a big branch off a tree behind the pontoon too blocking the footpath through the park.

June 28th 2026 – Rueil Malmaison to Port d’Arsenal, Paris

So on to our furthest destination and home for the next week. Port d’Arsenal is located at the start of the Canal Saint-Martin and runs from the lock out of the Seine up to the Place de Bastille. They have been here before and love its central location, which more than makes up for some security issues. We were told it was very weedy and there certainly is some weed, but when you’ve just sailed the Somme it seems positively weed free. They initially asked us to moor on the wall side of the marina as there said it was more secure. It probably is but Alison wasn’t happy – and nor was I. Brian is on doggy duties during part of our stay here and his back, combined with a painful knee after a fall, limits his walking ability – and it’s a long way round to the park. Anyway, the nice assistant harbour master found us another place on the park side, so here we are…

They had dinner nearby and I really didn’t want to go. Because of the weather they are eating later and all I really want to do is go to bed, but oh no, it’s too hot, you have to come! I can’t wait for cooler days and nights so I can just be left alone to dream.

June 29th 2026 – Paris

Today was Jas and Chris’s last day and they wanted to see more sights (the went to the Exhibition Calder whilst we were moving Annapanna yesterday). Alison took them down to one of her favourite places, the Coulee verte Rene-Dumont, the garden above the railway arches, before they headed off to the Marais. Then it was the rebuilt Notre Dame for Brian, Jas and Chris whilst Alison stayed with me and tidied up. We had guests tonight for drinks. My friends Ted and Clemmie’s owner Caroline and Roger plus their son, daughter and son in law – Nick, Alex and Tim. Very lovely and probably just as well Ted wasn’t there, although I really wished he was.

June 30th 2026 – Paris

Today we said goodbye to Jas and Chris. They caught the TGV back to Peronne to pick up the car then on to Dieppe and the ferry home – so we have one night and one night only when it’s just the three of us. …. And what did they do? They went out and left me! Before that though there much washing and cleaning ready for our new guests tomorrow. It should be 4 go to Paris but my friend Jane inconveniently dropped a fridge on her toe, so isn’t coming. Poor Jane and poor me – no cuddles from Jane. Alison disappeared for hours sitting in the cold of the yachtsmen’s lounge catching up with my blog whilst the washers and dryers were doing their bit. I know I should have been there but it was “no dogs” and she needed to use the WiFi, so I just dictated what she need to type.

As it’s slightly cooler now it was deemed ok to leave me home alone whilst they went out for dinner. They went to Bofinger, an old favourite from 10 years ago and weren’t disappointed. No Roger though, so no doggy bag!

July 1st 2026 – Paris

Jobs, shopping and a pedicure (not me although I could have done with one after Cergy). Then Alison set off to Gare du Nord to meet Ali and Fiona off Eurostar before they all set off to Frenchies, the restaurant Jane recommended. Brilliant night apparently. Great food, great company. They befriended the owner who insisted on buying them champagne – and Alison even got a birthday ice cream. There are 4 Frenchies on the same street, Rue du Nil, one a Michelin starred restaurant, another a casual and rustic wine bar with small plates (where they went), a takeaway spot and a Caviste, where they sell the wines featured in the Restaurants.

July 2nd 2026 – Paris

I’ve learn by now that a “girls” trip rarely includes me, however much I might want it to. A sad face, blocking the gangway, a longing stare, a wagging tail, constant barking whilst they are getting ready – I’ve tried them all and nothing works. I’m resigned to the fact that it’s just me and Brian for the next 2 days…. So off they went for their appointment at Notre Dame that reopened in 2024, meeting the 5 year ambitious target set by President Macron after the devastating fire of 2019. Of course there is still much work to do, but considering the amount of damage to both the structure and interior, it is an amazing feat. If you go make sure you have time to view the exhibition outside with photographs and details of the work involved. After that it was lunch at an old favourite of the two Ali’s, Les Deux Magots. Just as good as they remember and with a lovely, funny waiter thrown in (I think he had a bit of a thing about Fiona) they had a wonderful time. Then it was back for a bit of a rest before dinner and 38 Riv Jazz club in the Marais. Dinner just ok, jazz club very good although they wished they’d stayed for the jamming session afterwards. Another late night, another disturbed sleep for me!

July 3rd 2026 – Paris

I did get a walk in Arsenal park before they set off again, this time to Coulee verte Rene-Dumont, as Alison wants to show everyone her favourite park above the arches (Incidentally, in case you were wondering, inaugurated in 1993, this overground Coulee was open before the New York one). The park was formed on part of the old Bastille to Vincennes railway line, is 4.7 kms long and has to be one of the most relaxing places in Paris. After walking the length of the park they then descended to ground level and returned via at the many work and artisan shops under the arches. Never able to miss a retail opportunity, Alison bought some earrings and both she and Fiona bought some Jam.

Then it was lunch at Place des Vosges before a bit of culture at the oldest museum in Paris, The Carnavalet, which opened to the public in 1880. Housed in one of the few examples of Renaissance architecture in Paris the museum presents a chronological guide to the history of Paris, including a fascinating display of old shop and Inn signs. There is also a beautiful courtyard garden where you can have drinks,lunch or dinner amongst the box hedges and statues. They wished they had had dinner there last night.

Then it was back to the boat for a final dinner on board so this time Brian and I could join in. It was nice to see them, however briefly!

July 4th 2026 – Paris to Corneilles-en-Paris

Ali and Fiona’s train wasn’t until 5pm so we worked out that if all went to plan they could sail through Paris with us up until Rueil Malmaison then get the RER back to Gare du Nord (in less than 30 minutes would you believe). It took us 6 hours to get to the Arsenal from Rueil on the way into Paris so we knew we needed to leave at 8am. So on a beautiful morning we entered the Arsenal lock when it opened at 8am and sailed west past all the famous sights in ideal conditions. A perfect way to end a memorable birthday trip. I think they were impressed. It didn’t take anything like as long as 6 hours either so we moored up at the Rueil Halte in plenty of time to wander down to the station. All went to plan and they caught their Eurostar train. I would like to say I will miss them, but actually I hardly saw them!

We then sailed on to the massive – and unfinished – Port Seine-en-Parisis at Corneille. About two hours further on than Rueil we noticed it on our way to Paris and then our neighbours in the Arsenal recommended it to us. We are not sure. It is quite amazing, like an enormous version of Cergy with flats, shops, restaurants and lots of mooring, but at the moment the only things open are a wine bar and a pharmacy (and the flats). It is under the same management as the Arsenal so you can pick up a brochure at the capitainerie if you’re interested. After messing around inside the marina we decided to stay outside where we got a bit more of a breeze, but we don’t think that was the right decision. Outside is geared up for large boats and so the power outlets were too big for us. We also got buffeted around by the river traffic and on a warm Saturday there was plenty of that about.

July 5th 2026 – Cormeilles to L’Isle Adam

Today has not been a good day and we will have to wait and see what tomorrow or the next week brings. Both Brian and I are injured, and although I can’t feel my injury and Brian’s is very sore, it might well be me who ends up having the surgery….. again! Firstly, Brian. I won’t go into how it happened but in trying to hold onto the rope and control the boat in a lock he ended up getting some very nasty rope burns to his left palm. Out came the first aid kit and he is now cleaned and bandaged, but very sore and very tender. We didn’t really want to do another lock today but the Halte in L’isle Adam village was full and although we were going to moor off another boat they did not want me to walk on their decks. And actually, as they were metal and not teak, I wasn’t very happy either. So on we went, through two locks without incident, back into the marina. Personally, it suited me just fine as I knew I could swim off the slipway. So we moored up, out came the ball and off we went. I walked carefully over the metal of the lock gate, down to the slipway and had a brilliant time in the water. Then we walked back to the boat the long way (not over the bridge). Then Alison noticed my nail. Bloody and sticking out! Not again! She says the nail is broken and will definitely come off but whether the whole thing needs removing will depend on how well it heals. The horrible ramp at Cergy just gave me a bit of a pedicure, so why the problem now on such a short, flat gate. Maybe my nails are just too long and I should have gone for a pedicure with Alison the other day. Watch this space for updates.

July 6th 2026 – L’Isle Adam to Compiegne

Another hot day and now there is no swimming allowed – and that’s for me and Brian! We’re on long days at the moment but that’s ok with me as any breeze is better than no breeze. All the locks went without a hitch you’ll be pleased to know, although it is not easy when the skipper only has a right hand – when he’s left handed. After about 7 hours we moored up on the quay in Compiegne, but unlike a couple of weeks ago when we were alone, this time there were several boats already there – and in the prime position under the trees!

Then I was left alone on a hot boat – ok with a fan running on full and all the curtains closed – whilst they went to the urgency unit at Polyclinic Saint Come to get Brian’s rope burn checked and dressed. Two hours later (get that, two hours, not two days) they returned with a cleaned, dressed hand, a prescription for antibiotics and loads of dressings – and another prescription to request a nurse to redress it when we can. Great service. The whole process was made easier by a Frenchman offering to act as translator. There with his son he was so helpful, even to the point of running them back to the boat afterwards. They are indebted.

Moving on to my injury. Today the nail came off – and it looks like just the nail, so fingers crossed that salt water and savlon spray do the trick – although the socks and boots are out, just in case.

July 7th 2026 – Compiegne to Péronne

Another long day but at least there was a little cloud around which helped us cope with the heat. We weren’t originally planning to travel as far as Péronne but they didn’t think much of the mooring they’d chosen and Alison was keen for a nurse, rather than her, to do Brian’s first dressing change. Having two nights here would give a bit more flexibility, plus there was washing to do! So we arrived late, just catching the last lock before it closed (according to navigo) and taking the final place in the weed heaven, the Port de Plaisance, Péronne. The mooring of course was right at the end of the pontoon, deep into the weed, so by the time we were in position both thrusters had given up and reverse gear was none existent! We’ve been here before though, so hopefully all will be ok when we leave. Incidentally, once we had decided to push on to Péronne we spotted what seemed a nice, rural mooring amongst the etangs of St Christ-Briost. It’s mentioned in the CA as having widely spaced bollards and the boats moored there were pleasure barges, but you could probably put a stake in between if necessary.

July 8th 2026 – Péronne

It was definitely a good move to get here yesterday. Not only was all the washing done and dried but they also managed to arrange for a nurse to come to the boat to re-dress Brian’s hand. As advised by the nurse in Compiegne, Alison took the prescription to the pharmacy and asked for a list of nurses. The pharmacy assistant went much further. She got the number, rang it, arranged the appointment for later in the day – and ordered the missing dressing we couldn’t get in Compiegne. Brilliant service. So was the service given by the lovely Amari, the nurse who arrived at the boat later. Cleaned and re-dressed he said it all looked ok but he wanted Brian to have it dressed again in Valenciennes. We will Amari. All that for 15 euros.

I was actually a very happy dog today, even though swimming is off the agenda. Behind the pontoon is a shady, grassy area where we retreated to escape the heat. Lying for a few hours in the cool shade I felt I got my mojo back and started playing and chewing sticks, something I haven’t felt like doing for ages in this heat. Then Alison went swimming before we all went up to the bar for a beer, water and an unhealthy dinner, just how I like it!

July 9th 2026 – Peronne to Arleux

Today, we had 10 locks and the Ruyaulcourt tunnel, almost 4.5K of lovely cool shade on what was another very hot day. We set off without having any particular plan as to where we were going to moor and that’s mainly because there isn’t anywhere particular to moor on this stretch of the Canal du Nord. We considered going back to our grassy mooring at Sains-les-Marquion but then decided to push onto to Arleux instead. Was it a good move? Probably not. There are about 2 places for plaisanciers but of course they were taken, so we moored up next to a lovely old Dutch tug on the opposite bank. With bollards spaced for commercial boats we could only use one, so out came the hammer and stakes for the bow rope and spring. Problem was the grass was overgrown and full of nettles, so several stings later we were moored up and secure (we hoped). Then Alison put on long pants, got her gardening gloves out and soon we had a little path to the road which was nettle free! I think the town is about half a mile away, so it was just houses and a park. A dried out looking park, but a park nevertheless, so I was happy – although they don’t think they should recommend this place.

July 10th 2026 – Arleux to Valenciennes

Arleux is a busy little place with lots of barges coming to and fro on the Canal du Nord. Each time they passed we were rocked a little but not too much as they were all slowing down for the lock. But it was enough, so when Alison set off to take me for my constitution she noticed the spring had come out of the ground. Quickly hammering it back in she was more worried about the bow rope and noticed it had been pulled forward from its original position. Although she hammered that back in too, the ground was so dry she was no longer confident of a good hold on a busy waterway. So it was a quick walk and then we were off. Goodbye Canal du Nord, we won’t really miss you!

So on we went with a right (or starboard) turn onto the Canal de la Sensee (Grand Gabarit) and 3 easy down hill locks later we were back at Port de Plaisance Valescaut in Valenciennes. This time we knew all about the sluice gates and moored up on the waiting pontoon. A lovely Dutchman helped us moor and then offered to move up slightly so we could go alongside next to him. Perfect. As long as no big barges come in wanting this space we can stay here for the next two nights.

Then Alison went in search of a pharmacy to arrange Brian’s dressing change, had a mooch around the town and an ice cream at Leonidas. All without me! Then a surprise, Alex and Robert turned up – without crisps though sadly. They had returned to Valenciennes to pick up their car and noticed Annapanna in the harbour. Such a lovely surprise, even if I wasn’t very sociable.

July 11th 2026 – Valenciennes

The efficient service from the Domiciliary nurses continues and this morning Ali turned up to dress Brian’s hand. It even gets cheaper – only 10 euros this time! Not only that, he wasn’t happy with some of dressings we had, so said he would get some different ones for us – to save us buying them from the pharmacy! He also arranged for another nurse to go to the marina in Mons (which is in Belgium) on Monday. What a service.

Then Alison went off to finish her little shopping trip from yesterday whilst Brian and I tried to avoid the heat. We did wander down to the harbourmasters office though and I spied the slipway…. The jury’s out though on whether I should swim with my damaged nail, so sadly, it was a no from them!

In the evening I was left on board and on deck (too hot below) whilst they took the very efficient tram service into the town centre. Alison had seen a restaurant called La Veranda which had a little garden at the back, so they were going to go there. But… whilst checking reviews Brian came across Restaurant Les Arcades and as Veranda was Italian and they had had Italian last night, they opted for Les Arcades instead. It was good they said, very good. Family run, it was full of locals and everyone seemed to know each other. It specialised in seafood so they opted for fish, something Brian regretted when he saw the steaks – flambéed at the table. Their neighbours insisted that they try their pepper sauce…delicious, they said. Shame because I know I would have got a doggy bag if they’d gone for the steaks.

July 12th 2026 – Valenciennes

We should have left today but fortunately our neighbours asked if we’d checked whether the locks were open, as his app said some were shut. They checked and sure enough the locks on the “shortcut” don’t open at weekends (or bank holidays). As the alternative adds many hours to the journey they opted to stay put. Of course for me it means another day without a swim but on the plus side it means Ali will come back in the morning to dress Brian’s hand.

Alison pondered whether to go exploring and check out Anzin, a large suburb of Valenciennes but in the end decided it was too hot so baked a cake instead -make any sense to you? She wanted to use the redcurrants the harbour master pointed out, but didn’t want to make jam. One Swedish recipe cake later she took part of it to the hardest working harbourmaster in France. He was very appreciative.

July 13th 2026 – Valenciennes to Mons

Ali came this morning with a big bag full of dressings, sterile water, scissors, tape, new dressings and anything he thought we might need. All so we don’t have to buy anything at the pharmacy. What a star. He also reorganized the nurse in Mons for Wednesday. Then the hard working harbourmaster came with some Moroccan bread, baked by his wife especially for Alison. We will miss this place… a lot.

We said goodbye to our lovely Dutch neighbours, prepared to set off and of course the sluice gates opened! No point in fighting the current so we delayed cast off and had breakfast instead. Then off we set, straight into the Valenciennes lock, along the Escault and then right into the Canal de Pommeroeul a Conde, otherwise known as the shortcut! At the Grande Large marina in Mons our booked place was waiting for us – but I didn’t see anywhere to swim! Alison admitted she’d muddled two places up, so no beach for me. Never mind, the harbour master said I could swim off the slipway and that will do.

July 14th 2026 – Mons

Today is Bastille Day in France and there are celebrations everywhere – but we’ve moved onto to Belgium so will miss them all! Doesn’t sound like good timing to me but then again I’m not keen on either fireworks or loud music, so it’s all positive as far as I’m concerned. We are near the border though so perhaps we will see some fireworks in the distance.

I had my swim! It was so good and I even found a ball to make it even better. Then we all went to the Capitainerie Restaurant for dinner. What a different a month or so makes. Last time we were here it was cold and very wet (especially for me) and all dining was inside where no dogs were allowed – so I missed out on any scraps coming my way. Today, dining was all outside, under big umbrellas, with an outside bar as well…. And I could go. It was also packed, so we were lucky to get a space. A good night even without the tiramisu!

July 15th 2026 – Mons

Roger and Gill arrived today so there was much cleaning, washing and bed making. All exhausting in the continuous heat. In the middle of it all Alison went off to the massive, air conditioned shopping centre to the equally massive Carrefour and Brian had a visit from nurse Aurore, who dressed his hand as arranged by Ali in Valenciennes. Then it was stage 2, the final part of operation clean Annapanna, and did she need it! I should have taken before and after pictures to remind us just how dirty she was, because now she is gleaming ( at least a lot cleaner). I tried to do my bit during the operation and kept Alison company whilst she was scrubbing away from Little Dick. I think she appreciated the support!

With the boat gleaming and the cabins spotless we set off to meet Roger and Gill on their hot, sweaty walk from Mons bus station. It’s nice to have visitors on board again and Alison is very pleased to have some more support as the one armed bandit is only able to participate in certain dry duties which require one hand. Fortunately that does include driving the boat!

July 16th 2026 – Mons to Seneffe

With a full crew now on board we set off on the last part of our journey back to Maasbracht. Initially, we re-traced our steps along the Canal du Centre, this time rising 73 metres on the Strepy boat lift and then on to the junction with the Charleroi-Brussels canal. From now on we will be taking a different route back to Maasbracht, but that’s tomorrow. Today, we hung a right into the Branche de Bellecourt and got a perfect space on the visitors pontoon at the ADEPS yacht haven. It all looked good. Lovely and rural with shade, a designated swimming area (so presumably the water is tested) and across the bridge, a slipway.

After lunch it was all go. Most importantly for me was a swim, with my ball, from the slipway. Then the bikes came down, the paddle board pushed off the bathing platform and it was all go. Roger managed to get the chain back on the Brompton (as a keen cyclist, we knew he would) so then he and Alison set off up the towpath in search of a restaurant they had seen on Google Maps. Afterwards Alison set off on her board, paddling amongst the wild swimmers and canoeists on this lovely part of the canal. A good afternoon.

In the evening we walked (and Brian cycled) to Le Petit Baigneur, the local restaurant. Served by the lovely David who had just lost his 17 year old chocolate lab, I got brilliant service. So did they, but only after I was sorted. We sat out in the umbrella covered courtyard (there is also an air conditioned conservatory and two other large dining areas) along with most other guests. It is a big restaurant but obviously very popular, so book if you’re thinking about visiting. I came home with a doggy bag, carefully packed by David. We all had a very good evening.

July 17th 2026 – Seneffe toAvvelais

We left our lovely rural mooring in Seneffe, turned onto the River Sambre and headed towards the more industrialized Charleroi to Namur section of the river. Our destination was supposed to be Landelies Yacht Club but somehow we missed it! We had made such good time at the locks that we actually reached it a couple of hours before scheduled, so no one was looking out. So on we went with very limited choices. We didn’t like Tamines so carries onto Auvelais and moored up at the Halte Nautique right next to the railway bridge. There was one big problem. The steep metal steps out of the mooring when my nail is only just recovering. Going up was no issue but coming down another matter. The full harness came out as did a whole range of boots, but I don’t like any of them! I can walk better in the rubber balloon like things but they are so hard to get on, so in the end I just donned a nifty pair of pink socks.

After dinner Roger, Gill and Alison headed off across the railway bridge and into town. A beautifully lit church and buzzing main square with a karaoke session in full swing. Not my scene. Glad I stayed on board with Brian.

July 18th 2026 – Auvelais to Namur

Last night I had several up and down the metal steps with much assistance (so I wouldn’t charge down) and wearing my pink socks – but this morning it all went wrong. The socks didn’t do anything and I ended up with not one but two injured nails and this time they hurt! I know my wonky nails don’t help, but I was born with wonky nails (inherited from my mother) so why am I having so much trouble now? We are going to ask our new vet when we get home just how far they can be trimmed. I’ll tell you one thing though. One of the wonky nails is now straight – ouch! So it’s fingers crossed then for no infection and swimming is back off the agenda. Luckily the weather is much cooler so I’m not as desperate.

After my necessary treatment we set off along the final stretch of the Sambre before turning onto the Meuse. Lock one was straight through, but lock two said because of water shortages we would have to wait up to two hours. Fortunately a barge came along after an hour so we did the final two locks with them and were moored up on the quay in Namur in the early afternoon. Then it was sight seeing time – but not for me as I’m on foot rest (luckily). Alison, Roger and Gill wandered around the old town and had an ice cream (sad I missed that bit) then took the very new looking cable car up to the top of the citadel. They did manage to walk down though so Roger got his required steps for Strava!

July 19th 2026 – Namur to Liege

A late start meant a late finish so when we eventually arrived at the Port de Plaisance in Liege the only space available was right at the end of the long visitors quay. Normally that wouldn’t be an issue for me but this is not normally, as I now have two poorly nails! I did go out when we arrived but came back with a bloody foot, so that was it. Alison is determined we will move nearer the exit in the morning and two nice Dutchmen told us they were leaving at 8.30 in the morning and could have their place. They then went to Restuarant Capitainerie without me. Not only was it a long walk but the only entrance is up…. You’ve guessed it…. Metal steps.

July 20th 2026 – Liege

Another night here for some more sightseeing, all without me. Shame really as it involved climbing the 374 steps of the Montagne de Bueren up to the ruins of the citadel. I could have easily beaten them up the steps if all 4 paws were working normally! Before that though we moved into our perfect position near the exit gate of the harbour. Then they discover that tomorrow is National Day and a Bank Holiday…. And the fuel badge is shut! As we are desperately short of fuel it meant we had to get it today, just as we were settled! Brian managed to charm the harbour master lady who instructed the maintenance man to put a reserved sign on our mooring and keep an eye on it. And he did – and it was just as well as by the time we got back from re-fuelling the harbour was almost full.

Then they were off. Into the old town, round the cathedral and then up those steps to the top of the Montagne, which is actually a hospital. It’s not like Namur with its panoramic restaurant, the only place to get a drink was in the hospital. Apparently it was a very smart hospital, but it’s not quite the same! Back in town they tried the Liege waffles. Ok but they’ve had better.

July 21st 2026 – Liege to Maastricht

Today is National Day in Belgium which celebrates the coronation of the first king in 1831. After we had been out for my morning walk we heard a band playing – so never ones to miss out on things Roger and Alison rushed out to see what was going on. There was a little ceremony at the war memorial with the town dignitaries and a small band. They laid some wreaths then they all marched onto the next memorial in the nearby park. I’m not sure how many memorials there are about town, but it could be a long day for them!

Then it was time to leave our perfect mooring and head further north to Maastricht. For the first time in quite a number of years (certainly before I was born) they decided to moor in the old harbour, T’Bassin. Our new dropping hood meant getting through the low bridge into the harbour was a cinch. No more major canvas removal, just 4 buttons and it was down and we were through – into one of the loveliest harbours in urban Netherlands. Right in the middle of the city, the harbour has always been surrounded by restaurants and bars but now there is a funky cinema with bar area next to the water and a massive warehouse development called the Sphinx. The building used to be ceramics factory and there is a fascinating free museum detailing the history of the business and the changing fashions within ceramics. All this is detailed in the Sphinx Passage – on ceramic tiles.

After lunch they set off sight seeing… again – and again without me as I’m still on minimal walking. Roger and Gill haven’t been here before so Alison acted as tour guide and took them to some of the city’s lovely squares. Markt, Onze Lieve Vrouwerplein and its atmospheric Romanesque church and Vrijthof – where they were dismantling the set from the recent Andre Rieu summer season of concerts.

July 22nd 2026 – Maastricht

Another night here and another day sightseeing – for them. I did at least get to walk into Markt and meet them for lunch though, so it wasn’t all bad. No bleeding foot afterwards either, which is even better. Today the intrepid tourists set off to walk the remaining city walls in the south of the city and visit the statue of D’Artagnan, the Musketeer, who apparently died in the city. As he was fighting for the French against the Dutch they couldn’t quite work out why he has been honoured with a statue, but he has and it’s very handsome! Before walking the walls they returned to Onze Lieve Vrouplein to look round the Hotel Derlon Museum Cellar and the Roman remains discovered during the demolition of the old building on the hotel site. It’s all rather atmospheric and if you are staying there you can have your breakfast overlooking the excavations. Before meeting us for lunch they then headed back via Vrijthof (where they were still dismantling Andre Rieu’s set) to the Dominican bookshop. Just to be clear this is not a store selling Dominican artifacts but a bookshop located in an old Dominican church. They said it was amazing and I believe them. On the way there they came across another wonderful building, the Monastery of the Crosiers, now a very beautiful hotel called Kruisherhotel. They were drawn in by the long copper entrance tunnel and no one seemed to mind them having a nosey round. They were told it was about to shut for two months for a big re-furb – they have already started on the cloister garden – so hope it’s as lovely when they finish.

Then we all met for lunch in Markt before going our separate ways. Gill and Roger to explore the other side of the Maas and Brian, Alison and me to one of the best kitchen shops we have ever been into. Note that includes me although as I’ve never been into a kitchen shop before and have no need for kitchen gadgets, so I have to take their word for it when they say that it was a very, very good one!

Dinner at the 3 Buckets (Les Trois Seaux) in the harbour (I stayed on board). Very good seafood and lovely family run restaurant. Sadly it is moving from the harbour at the end of the month, so from October you will have to venture into town and Onze Lieve Vrouplein to find them on Koestraat.

July 23rd 2026 – Maastricht to Maasbracht

After a morning visit to the amazing organic deli in the Sphinx building, Cooperatie Gedeelde Weelde, we set off on our last journey of this trip back to Van de Laan, Annapanna’s home base. We set off a day earlier than we needed to, just in case! Alison had little faith in the car starting and envisaged Landrover recovery EU coming out to re-charge the batteries,,,, but… it started, no messing! So now we are mobile and they have even more time to scrub, clean and pack whilst I relax in the sunshine!

July 24th 2026 – Maasbracht

When we left Van de Laan in May it was decided that we should remove the life raft from the boat and store it in the back of the car – my area in the back of the car…. So yesterday I couldn’t go into town with them, nor could I accompany Brian to Urwin’s this morning. All very inconsiderate. Then Alison decided we could all walk into town – even me with a bad foot – and meet Brian there for coffee. I wasn’t sure, but out came a boot (and a spare one just in case) and off we went. I actually walk quite normally with one boot on, unlike the goose stepping when I’m wearing 4, so it all went ok and after coffee at Jaggaz we popped across to the vets for a passport stamp and some tasty worming tablets. So all in all a good morning, made even better when the boot of the car opened and the life raft had gone…..