Prologue

Here we are in May 2022. Covid is still with us, but now, or at least for the time being, we are learning to live with it. So travel is back on the agenda – and that means we have just arrived in the Netherlands for the start of our 2 year delayed trip to the Baltic.

We are starting in late May for two reasons – firstly, we could not miss a very important date. The 22nd May was Sheila’s 90th birthday. She is now 630 dog years old and all those years deserved a celebration, a big one. And a big one she had! About 80 people from various aspects of her busy life joined her at her favourite place, Gibbon Bridge, for an afternoon and evening of music, food and fun. I believe it was a day to remember. Sadly, we canines were not invited, so Mattie, Willow and I stayed home with a baby sitter! A baby sitter, I ask you. I’m more than 30 in dog years now and Mattie – well he’s much older!

The second reason for a later start is of course Brexit and its 90/180 day rule. They can’t just swan off for the summer any more (unlike me with my dutch passport), so have to be a bit more selective with dates. So we are here until the beginning of July when, if all goes to plan, we will leave the boat north of Berlin before returning in late August to explore the Mecklenburg lakes nearby.

Hull to Rotterdam – 26th May 2022

After a few days recovery following the party weekend we set off to Hull and Pride of Rotterdam. Note we are on Rotterdam, not the beleagued Hull, which is now manned by agency staff, who have replaced the 600 or so staff the bosses at P&O felt the need to sack. I’m not sure how I feel about supporting P&O at all, but wouldn’t want anyone else to lose their job because of lack of custom.

There was no shortage of customers of the canine kind on this trip though. Both the new and old kennels were full, something I have seen rarely. Maybe they’ve all taken my lead and changed nationalities. None of this affected me though as we managed to get a last minute cancellation in a dog friendly cabin. So once I’d settled down, I was very cosy and comfortable thank you very much.

Maasbracht – 27th – 29th May 2022

Back to van de Laan and Annapanna, now resplendent with her new stablisers. They are supposed to make it less bumpy in rough waters, making me a lot less nervous. Not convinced, but I’d love to be proved wrong. No quarantine required this year so we were out and about straight away, slightly hampered by the fact that Thursday was Ascension day and in the Netherlands it is a bank holiday.

Van de Laan was quite busy, mainly with German owners, as it is a long weekend bank holiday for them. But there were some Brits about, notably Dugald, his sister in law Kelso and her cavapoo Mack. Dugald and Kelso came for dinner on Friday night followed by Mack, as he wasn’t too happy being left alone. I know the feeling! Mack is only young and very lively so I tried to keep a dignified distance and ignore him, even though he was playing with my toys!

Maasbracht to T’Leuken – 28th May 2022

Time to go. Two years late we said goodbye to Kathy, Harry and Dick at van de Laan and started on our slow trek north (then east) to Berlin. Initially though, we are retracing old ground and tonight we are in a favourite place, Leukermeer. If you remember from last year’s blog I said we weren’t happy with all the development at our usual mooring, so this time we are staying at the original harbour of T’Leuken. It is so much better for me, with the lovely lake walk directly off the pontoon. The whole place is so much more dog friendly, I don’t know why it has taken them so long to make the change.

Alison and I went off round the lake whilst Brian got on with his ”jobs”. The walk really is lovely, most of it through woodlands right next to the lake. The only thing spoiling it was the no swimming rule, which meant I had to be kept on a lead most of the time…. well you know me and water! I was rewarded at the end though, as we went to our swimming place – just through the bridge into what isn’t Leukermeer – for a frantic ball chase and swim, bliss.

They had dinner at Lucas aan het Water whilst I stayed home sleeping off my exertions. Just ok was the verdict, although the staff were lovely.

T’Leuken to Doesburg – 29th May 2022

A long, long day today. It wasn’t supposed to be but the current on the Waal was running at about 5k so progress was very slow. We made up for it on the Gelderse Ijssel though and fairly shot down to Doesburg. Fortunately, fast doesn’t necessarily mean bumpy, so I managed to sleep most of the afternoon and take my mind off the fact that I hadn’t had a wee stop for hours! I’m thinking about reporting them to the RSPCA if it happens again.

We eventually arrived in the harbour at Doesburg two whole hours after my dinner time. This is not acceptable and better not be repeated. Doesburg is a very nice town and the harbour has been developed further since our last visit in 2019. The industrial warehouse on the quay is now a restaurant and bar which I suspect will be buzzing in the season. Not at the moment though. We had a peek in and the massive space was completely empty.

Doesburg to Hattem – 30th May 2022

Thankfully we only had a shorter day today as instead of ploughing onto Kampen we moored up at Hattem instead. Now Hattem was a 4/5 place in my 2019 scoring system, so I was very happy dog. There is still miles to walk to get out of the harbour, which is not great when your legs are crossed, but then it’s straight on to lots of lovely grass and swimming at the end of the harbour.

I had to wait until we’d walked into town, bought some chocolates and made a half hearted effort to find the frog orchestra. Brian still wanted to see it, even though I found it pretty unspectacular and none of the locals seem to have heard of it! Anyway we failed and much to my relief we returned to the boat and I eventually got my swim ….. then a walk and some more play with my ball. Hattem is a nice town, but to me the harbour is the best thing about it!

Hattem to Enkuizen – 31st May 2022

From Hattem we continued down the Ijssel into Ketelmeer and then on into the IJsselmeer and over to Enkhuizen. The whole point of this part of the trip was to test the stabilisers, but thankfully (for me) the Ijsselmeer was millpond calm. Weather’s looking good for the next few days too, so hopefully our trip back over to Lemmer will be similarly uneventful! Not sure any of this bodes well for how I will manage in the Baltic, but we have to get there first so I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it.

At the moment though we are moored up in the inner harbour in Enkhuizen where we are staying for 2 nights. Jas is due to arrive tomorrow and join us for a week.

Enkhuizen – 1st June 2022

Bliss, a day with moving! Of course that meant they had to go off and shop … but then it was my time. Alison had been out earlier and had found a nice park and lots of green around the ramparts, so off we went on a bit of an explore. Then we got to the best bit, a lovely long sandy beach where I could swim and chase my ball. Perfect. Enkhuizen is a very pretty place with a central mooring, but now it has gone up even higher in my estimation.

Jas arrived very late after what now seem to be inevitable airport delays. I went to the station with Brian to pick him up which I wasn’t impressed about. Not because I don’t want to see Jas (although I don’t think he sees me) but because it was well past my bed time so I was dragged out of my cosy bed to meet him!

Enkhuizen to Grou – 2nd June 2022

We were up and off this morning as we had an assignation with an engineer in Lemmer. Now Lemmer is on the other side of the Ijsellmeer so that meant another crossing, this time with a little more wind! The crossing wasn’t too bad so maybe, just maybe, the stabilisers are doing their bit. Here’s hoping!

We met the engineer just through the lock and watched the Trooping of the Colour whilst he repaired the paint damage caused by not checking the engine room on the return journey from stabiliser company. Brian was not amused and insisted they came out and sorted it. Then we were off again, along the Princes Margrietkanaal, across Sneekermeer and into Grou. With perfect timing a boat pulled off it’s town mooring just as we arrived, leaving us an ideal place right in the centre of this pretty little town.

There was no swimming here sadly but we did have a wander round the town, checked out the park and had a beer in the central square, so all good for people watching. There was also plenty going on at the mooring, so I was a happy dog.

We are now into the Jubilee weekend so showing support for our amazing Queen was essential. So today out came the bunting and Annapanna is now ”dressed overall” as they say in boat speak.

Grou to Dokkum – 3rd June 2022

Today we travelled to a favourite place, Dokkum, via another favourite place, Leewarden. All nice quiet waterways with strict speed limits, so perfect for me. Dokkum really is every bit as pretty as they remembered it and I think Jas was impressed too. Our mooring was in virtually the same place as 2020 – between the windmills – definitely a recommendation. It was perfect for me as there is so much going on I had plenty to keep me occupied – and bark at, which got me into trouble.

One big disappointment though was the closure of the ZOCO shop on the main street. If you read my 2020 blog you will know that this place sold amazing ice cream, wonderful yoghurt and the best pannacotta ever. Of course all this info is second hand as I personally never tasted anything, but I think it’s pretty accurate. The good news though is that it wasn’t a complete victim of Covid and the company is still functioning but now from a farm too many miles away from Dokkum.

Home alone whilst they went out for tapas in the evening but I wasn’t complaining as it gave me a chance to stretch out on the sofa, keep an eye on the locals and bark as much as I wanted with getting told off!

Dokkum to Garnwerd – 4th June 2022

We left Dokkum planning to spend the night in Zoutcamp, a lovely little harbour with an even lovelier lake behind it, but it was full, jam packed full, with some sort of boat rally. Rather than retrace our steps back to the more modern yacht haven we decided to move on to a place I had noted in my 2020 diary, Garnwerd.

Garnwerd was a perfect alternative. Long fingers alongside the canal with a restaurant, cafe bar and working windmill at the end. The fingers backed onto a lawn with picnic tables and then – best of all – a big play area and a beach…… so I didn’t have to miss my swim! It has a nice little village too, with an old church worth checking out if you’re in to that sort of thing.

Garnwerd to Veerdam – 5th June 2022

As we had moved on to Garnwerd it meant we could make Veerdam in a comfortable day. Veerdam is where Jas is leaving us so we needed to make sure we got there in time for him to catch his train to Schipol. Now we are here the night before we have time to explore, shop (of course), see him off and then move on again.

We were delayed on our way here by the tourist steam train which runs to and from the tram and train museum in Stadskanaal, which happens to be our next destination. The train crosses a bridge over the canal which has to be manually cranked into position, so understandably they keep it closed whilst the train refuels and turns its engines round (or whatever it does) whilst hoards of tourists take pictures. Of course I’m an old hand at steam trains after travelling on the West Somerset railway, so I kept my cool whilst others around me got very excited!

Veerdam – 6th June 2022

Jas left us in the afternoon to catch his train to Schipol and our original plan was to move on to Stadkanaal with the bridge covoy the same day. However our plans were thwarted as the weather was so awful that the second team of bridge openers had gone home wet through! Well it was a bank holiday, so you can’t blame them!

Instead Alison went to the museum (all about the history of peat and subsequent development along the canals) and then for a bike ride in the pouring rain. Rather her than me, she came back drenched!

Veerdam to Stadskanaal – 7th June 2022

Waiting a day for the weather didn’t really help at all as it was raining when we set off and continued to rain all way to Stadskanaal. Is it really June? Everyone was so fed up when we got there they decided not to continue on to Musselkanaal as planned after the mandatory lunch break, but warm up and hunker down on our mooring at Stadskanaal instead. I’m sure the bridge/lock keepers who had to travel with us by bicycle were very happy too. All the lock gates on this canal are completely manual so they have to open them with their feet and then carry on pushing or pulling using a long pole. Looks like hard work to me!

When we told the friendly young bridgemaster we weren’t moving on he said we were much better staying in Stadskanaal anyway as it had everything – including an area behind the canal which is good for dogs! Perfect! So once we’d warmed up and the rain had stopped off we went to find the park and play ball. I was a very happy dog.

Stadskanaal to Haren – 8th June 2022

Another convoy, another 9am start. All a bit much for Brian! Same manual locks and bridges all the way the Ter Apel and the end of this series of narrow and shallow dutch canals. Obligatory lunch stop in Ter Apel then we were off again onto the Haren-Rutenbrock kanal and into Germany. As soon as we crossed the border everything became automatic, all controlled from schleusen no. 1 (german for lock/sluis). We actually crossed the border twice as the one for boats was in a different place to the one on land.

At schleusen no. 1 we left the Haren-Ruterbrock kanal and entered the Dortmund-Ems -Kanal. Much bigger, much deeper, less stressful as we’ve now got some water under the keel (as they say). Just after we turned onto the kanal it started to rain – really hard – and continued whilst we turned into our home for the night at Wassersport Haren (Ems) e. V. We should be used to it by now but I’m a sun dog and I need my fix!

The harbour was lovely, the harbourmaster friendly and the town a short walk away. There was also a great little walk all the way round the harbour where I could be off lead for much of the way. No swimming, but then it isn’t exactly swimming weather.

They went out for dinner in the rain (rather them than me). It was supposed to be a excellent wine place but they think it’s fallen by the wayside a bit. Strictly average sadly.

Haren to Lingen – 9th June 2022

A walk around the harbour, then a wander into town. A late start is a bit of a luxury these days so we made the most of it. Then we were off, up the Dortmund-Ems-Kanal to Lingen, more specifically EYC Lingen which is a small private yacht haven about 5K out of town. The yacht haven is the first of 3 down an old spur of the canal. The people were very friendly and the mooring had everything we needed except ….. the pontoons were made of the horrible, anti-dog metal. Now, I’m quite good at navigating these, but it doesn’t mean to say I like them and as we then discovered that the other 2 harbours on the spur had wooden pontoons I have to recommend these instead – if you have a dog! Even better though is to go on another kilometre to the Hotel Am Wasserfall. We were told about this place, but our books said there was a single guest mooring and as we knew one of our fellow boaters had booked a place we assumed it was full. Not so. Alison went on a bike ride into town and then back via the hotel to find at least half a dozen guest moorings in a sunny spot right next to the hotel terrace. You do probably have to have dinner there but we think it is worth it.

Lingen to Osnabruck – 10th June2022

A very long day today and sooo boring. I managed to sleep most of the way so it wasn’t too much of a problem. Especially as we even had some sunshine! We didn’t really have a plan, but as all 7 locks were done in convoy behind a dutch working barge, we made excellent time and so they decided to push on, up the Mittellandkanal, then down the Osbabruck canal to Halen and Osnabrucker Motor Yacht Club, our home for the next 3 nights!

We have a very nice mooring straight on to lawn and a barbecue area, then just out of the gate is a footpath down to the canal – so all should be perfect ….. but very sadly it isn’t for me. The finger we are on is very narrow and for some reason slippery – for me. I really “don’t like it”…. So I’ve tried leaping on in the wrong place several times nearly giving Alison a heart attack each time.

Osnabruck – 11th & 12th June 2022

Day one was car moving day. So at 09.20 Alison went off to the station to catch 5 different trains back to Roermond to pick up the car. Apparently each train was a little bit late and the connections very tight, so there was a lot of running between platforms. Against the odds she managed to catch all but the last one – but as that was a local train from Venlo to Roermond there was another half an hour later. Then it was goodbye to Kathy, hello and goodbye to Jimmy and Shirley and a two and a half hour drive back to Annapanna. Whilst Alison was busy travelling, we were busy with washing and walking and as the sun has come out, catching those rays. At last it feels like June and the forecast for the next week is good. Just need to get my sunglasses sorted now.

We, well they, had dinner in the club restaurant and I was allowed to join them. We sat with a german couple and their dog but she growled at me so I decided to avoid her! Not her owner though as she gave me lots of treats. Then I had a big chase round with the presidents dachshund. He was like a smaller version of Crumpet.

Day two was sightseeing day… bliss!…. As we have the car we drove into Osnabruck city and spent a couple of hours wandering round the old town, or Altstadt. I’m not sure how keen I am on cobbled streets but at least it wasn’t busy, so all was ok. The sun was shining too which makes everything much better – well apart from getting on and off the boat via that slippery finger. Sheila, we needed you here as they say they have a dedicated mooring for disabled badge holders – right on the quay!

When we got back it was walk time. Along the canal footpath to the lock then back on the other side. I even managed a swim, so all in all not a bad day.

Osnabruck to Minden – 13th June 2022

Before leaving Yachthafen des MYC Osnabruck I need to tell you about the chickens, hundreds of them. Just next to the haven, on the other side of my walking path, was field full of the happiest and healthiest looking chickens I’ve ever seen (well maybe apart from Fiona’s). They had a big wagon to go into at night but the rest of the time they wandered around their large field. Definitely free range, no scrawny battery hens here. The eggs were sold out of a little hut at the side of the field too.

Our next port of call was Minden, which is situated on the junction of the Mitterlandkanal and the Wesel river. The Mindener Yacht Club was small and friendly and we had a perfect mooring right on the quay next to the restaurant. No narrow fingers, no metal pontoons. Perfect. The mooring was a few kilometres out of town so Alison decided cycle off and explore. Apparently the obere altstadt, which was the upper old town, was very pretty. More cobbled streets though so happy I didn’t go.

Minden to Seelze – 14th June 2022

One of our boating colleagues in Osnabruck suggested that we should ring ahead to reserve a place in the yachthafens and although we hadn’t any issues up until then we decided to take his advice. It was just as well we did as our plan to spend the night at Yachthafen Hannover was well and truly scuppered when they told us they had no room for a boat of our size. We then tried two other hafens – same thing. We had almost decided we would moor up at one of the many canal side places, but before deciding we’d take a look at MBC Seelze hafen down the Stichkanal nachHannover-Linden a few kilometres before Hannover. There was no contact number or website for the hafen but on line reviews were not positive for visitors.

At the hafen we found a mooring (metal pontoon sadly) and then tried to get out to find someone. Locked gates, no one around and although pretty, all a bit tatty. However, the restaurant at the end of the hafen was busy and the staff really helpful..They unlocked the gate so I could go off and do what I needed to do and told us the harbourmaster was on holiday. It all got a bit confusing, but in the end we thought we had spoken to someone who said it was 20 euros to stay. So we did and no one came to the harbour all night.

We were planning to visit Hannover from Yachthafen Hannover but as luck would have it Seelze was on the main train line and so we decided to go into the city from here. A 10 minute walk to the station and a short and easy 15 minute train ride into central Hannover gave us lots of time for sightseeing. Bliss! We went straight to the tourist office, bought the ‘Red Thread’ guide and then followed the red line around most of the city sights. When we got back to the hafen I collapsed in a heap, exhausted from all that sightseeing, whilst they went to the harbour restaurant for dinner – very good apparently.

So from this description you would think this was a place to note. Lovely restaurant, very convenient for Hannover, yet on a quiet, picturesque canal. Some of the pontoons need some TLC but the only thing wrong with ours was the metal surface and that, unfortunately for me, is common. But….. the next day as I was taking my early morning walk a woman on a bike stopped and said there are no visitor spaces at the haven. As the last – uncomplimentary – review was in May this must have been a recent decision. We were lucky because the harbour master was away and the restaurant open, but if you decide to risk it be prepared to be turned away. Such a shame as it has a lot going for it.

Seelze to Stichkanaal Hildesheim – 15th June 2022

Back up the Stichkanaal nach Hannover-Linden to the Mittellandkanal and the bunker for some fuel. Ouch! very expensive fuel. Not that it bothers me unless it gets to the point where they can’t feed me! Anyway, I was very happy at the fuel station as I was fed treats, stroked, kissed and cuddled. The man in charge of the pump even wanted to take me home. I’m not sure what his dog would have had to say about it but the fact he had a swimming pool nearly swung it!

Eventually, fuelled to the brim we continued on our way along the Mittellandkanal and then down another stichkanaal (branch canal) Salzgitter to Yachthafen Heidanger. Yet another hafen with a restaurant and this one was very smart. Lovely mooring onto a long visitor pontoon, beautiful hafen which would have been perfect if it wasn’t for the metal …… again! This hafen though is owned and run by the restaurant so access is good and visitors are encouraged. Perhaps that’s what needs to happen at Seelze. We should put them in contact!

Stichkanaal Salzgitter to Wolfburg – 16th June 2022

I’m probably not supposed to mention this but we have a toilet problem! The guest loo was making very funny noises and as Mags and Robert are due next week we had to get it sorted. With a lot of help from someone called Daniel, Brian managed to locate an engineer who said he would meet us at the yacht haven, so for a change we had a late start. That gave Alison time for a run and me for a walk, so it was good news.

Toilet sort of fixed (don’t ask what the problem was) but it will be ok until we get to our final destination. It would have been like Piccadilly station all of them trying to use the stern cabin one and would have seriously disturbed my sleep every time they traipsed passed by bed in the middle of the night.

At midday we were off to Wolfburg, home of VW. We are here for two nights whilst Alison goes back to Osnabruck for the car and Brian goes round the VW Autostadt. Arriving in Wolfburg we first sailed passed the super smart Autostadt with the two new car towers behind. Each of these towers holds 400 cars and is connected by underground tunnel to the factory. I think that’s supposed to be impressive.

Wolfburg – 17th June 2022

On the whole a totally boring day …… for me. Alison went off for the car and Brian and I went for a walk round Allerpark – which was fine. Then he left me whilst he went round VW Autostradt. I wouldn’t have been welcome apparently. He did eventually come back and we did get another little walk but then he was off again, this time for more shopping with Alison after she arrived back with the car.

I did get a final walk though, again in Allerpark and this time all the way round it. It’s about 4k round, there are beaches, cafes and sports areas and signs saying no dogs on the beaches, lawns or swimming – for health reasons apparently. I’m not sure I understand the health reasons as there were geese all over the beaches and lawns, pooing everywhere. Why are they different? Anyway I had a little paddle, much needed as it’s still very hot and there was an off lead area where I could have chased my ball if I had it – and it wasn’t so hot.

Then the left me again whilst they went out to dinner in the harbour restaurant. It was Greek, run by Albanians. Lovely people, good food….. I believe.

Wolfsburg to Haldensleben – 18th June 2022

Another boiling hot day, even at 9am when we left. There were lots of runners along the bank by Allerpark – definitely too hot for a run. The Allerpark parkrun apparently and if you felt like doing it it would be a one for the heat. Flat and you can jump in the water at the end….. if they survived to the end.

A shortish day today to Yachthafen der WSF Haldensleben. It was deserted apart from what the harbourmaster accurately described as a strange ship. Strange it most definitely was. How many ships do you see made out of the upturned roof of an arts centre in Berlin? It is called the Citizenship and is sailing from Berlin to Kassel for an arts festival (documenta fifteen) – supposedly under purely manmade and solar power. The manmade part was a row of bicycles driving the propeller. Many of the rotation crew are musicians and they planned to put on concerts or workshops at each of their stopping places. There was even a homemade music show scheduled for tonight, but they laughed when we asked if it was going to happen.

Sadly Citizenship has developed a leak so is holed up in Haldensleben awaiting an engineer and a possible lift out of the water to sort the problem. It is so disappointing for them. They are already behind schedule so don’t expect to make the festival, but we hope they will get going again and achieve their dream. They have a website so if this inspires you to follow them, look them up citizenship.zhu-Berlin.org.

The best thing about this harbour, apart from the crew of Citizenship who were all very friendly, was the slipway. It was 30 odd degrees today and I desperately needed a swim. It was so convenient I went several times, pure bliss. That’s all I wanted to do in the heat but Alison decided she needed to go on a bike ride to see the local Schloss. She came back late and hot and more excited about seeing a red squirrel rather than the Schloss.

Haldensleben to Plaue – 19th June 2022

A very long day today but still very hot so being on the move gave us a bit of breeze. An 8am start (didn’t know Brian could get up that early) got us to the Aquaduct of the Elbe before 9am and our first wait of the day. All boats have to cross in convoy but we didn’t have too long to wait before our little group was called to cross. The aquaduct is quite a feat of engineering but it is difficult to appreciate it when you can’t see over the sides, so I’ve included a photo from our guide book to demonstrate it. We didn’t have quite the same number of people watching on our crossing!

Following the Aquaduct we headed for the first of 3 locks, Schleuse Hohenwarthe and the end of the Mittellandkanal. Exiting the lock we entered the Elbe-Havel-Kanal and followed it all the way to Plaue and Wassersportanlage Plaue, Magdeburg, our destination for the night. By now the weather had changed from hot and sunny to wet and windy and a challenging mooring was not what we wanted at the end of long day!

Plaue to Potsdam – 20th June 2022

We woke this morning to pouring rain so no one, including me, was in any hurray to get up. I might be a water dog but I don’t like the rain and a nice lie in after some early (for Brian) starts was no problem. We did eventually leave though, rain or no rain and headed east along the Elbe-Havel-Kanal, Silo, Untere Havel and Sacrow-Paretzer kanals and their associated lakes before turning south into the Potsdamer Havel and our final destination, Marina am Tiefen See, Potsdam. It was probably a beautiful trip but relentless rain took the edge off it a bit. It had cleared though by the time we turned onto the Potsdamer Havel under the Glienicker Brucke and right (or starboard in boat speak) into the Tiefer See and our home for the next three days.

Now it is education time. Glienicker Brucke is an iron bridge built in 1907 connecting the Wannsee district of Berlin with Potsdam. As this part of the Havel formed the border between West Berlin and East Germany the bridge was used several times during the Cold War for the exchange of spies and hence became known as the Bridge of Spies. It has been a feature in a number of books and films – none of which I’ve read of course but I’m still a font of knowledge (or at least wikipaedia is)!

We have a perfect mooring alongside an empty house boat with a large deck and smart table and chairs. It slightly makes up for the long metal pontoon I had to walk all the way to the land. I am so experienced at walking these now and I’m totally cool about it – it just doesn’t look it when I’m navigating them.

Potsdam – 21st June 2022

Two events today. Car moving in the morning and then the arrival of Mags and Robert , aka the Odd Couple, in the afternoon. Alison set off for the station and Brian set off to the washing machine. I‘m going to rename him Widow Twankey. All he needs to do is put on his pantomine dame outfit.

The car moving process was much shorter, so when Alison arrived back we set off for a spot of sight seeing of the type I like, round Park Babelsberg. Lovely park and beautiful Schloss. The picture above of Flatowturm is in this park as it is just across the Humboldt Brucke from our mooring. Then it was a trip to the supermarket (of course) and then to the station to pick up our guests. I’m looking forward to Mags being here as she thinks I’m starved and always gives me bigger portions.

Potsdam – 22nd June 2022

First thing, before it got too hot, Alison went out for a run, or a bit of a run and a bit of a sight see. She went to another park, Neuer Garten and Schloss Cecilienhof not too far from our mooring. Cecilienhof was built in English country house style in 1917 for Crown Prince Wilhelm. It looks like it should be in Surrey not East Germany and is famous as the place that hosted the 1945 conference where Stalin, Truman and Churchill discussed and agreed Germany’s post war fate, dividing Europe into East and West and laying the foundation for what would become the Cold War.

The days are getting hotter and hotter – just perfect for a whole day walking the main sights in Potsdam. Potsdam, a former Prussian royal seat, is known as the city of palaces and parks and is a Unesco world heritage site. Many of these palaces, or schlosses, were masterminded by Frederick II, known as Frederick the Great. With good taste and plenty of cash he left an incredibly beautiful legacy which amazingly, given its proximity to Berlin, was barely touched during the second world war. The day’s plan was to walk through the Dutch quarter in the Innerstadt, have a coffee and a wander round the lively streets, then head off to what is known as the jewel in the crown of this beautiful city, Park Sanssouci and its incredible schloss. At the end of the day I got my reward, a lovely cool swim and play in the water just over the bridge. I was one happy, tired dog and really didn’t want to join them when they went to meet Michael and Connie for drinks on the car park, sorry restaurant, in the hafen.

Potsdam – Berlin – 23rd June 2022

Another very hot day – actually an even hotter day than yesterday but at least we have no sightseeing! After coffee with Connie and Michael (or Connie as Michael was advising Brian on all things Baltic) we went for a final swim across the bridge before setting off along the Teltowkanal to Hafen Templehof in the south of Berlin. We passed some very lovely houses along the canal before arriving at the only lock of the day and our first wait in the heat. At least I could get off and disappear into the woods by the pontoon until it was time to go.

Hafen Templehof is an old industrial harbour and reminds them a little bit of old the haven in Maastricht. The warehouse has been converted into a shopping centre – so you can imagine how happy they were to discover an Edeka right on the doorstep! There are restaurants around the harbour and lots of people hanging around, which may or may not be a good thing. There is no swimming here and not even much in the way of greenery, so I can’t say it scores very highly on the dogometer! There’s lots of action to bark at though and NO metal pontoons so that does give it a few bonus points.

Berlin -24th June 2022

Sightseeing anyway is not my idea of a good time, but sightseeing in big city in fierce heat is a nightmare for me and my paws. Already battered by the relentless metal pontoons I now had to suffer what I imagine walking on hot coals feels like. It’s OK when we keep moving but in Berlin there were lots of outside museums where I had to stand whilst they read all the information.

As we couldn’t take the hop on hop off bus (as they wouldn’t take dogs) Alison decided we would follow The Wall tour in her guidebook finishing in Potsdamer Platz and then head up to Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag. The first bit was easy. The U bahn went from just outside the marina and took us up to the start of the tour – Checkpoint Charlie , now a bit of a tacky tourist spot (although with with an interesting museum). But before I tell you about Checkpoint Charlie I think I need to say something about The Wall and why we were following a tour of it!

Cast your mind back to lovely Potsdam and the beautiful Schloss Cecilienhof where in 1945 Stalin, Truman and Churchill decided how they were going to divide up Europe as part of the postwar peace plan. Part of that division went straight through the middle of Berlin, dividing the city into East and West. Unfortunately it didn’t take long for relationships to sour and tensions arise between the US and Russia and their respective allies, resulting in what became known as the Cold War. In 1961, in the middle of the Cold War, the socialists from East Berlin decided to build a barrier – which they called an anti-fascist protection rampart – to remove the risk of its population becoming influenced by and possibly defecting to, West Berlin. The wall stood until 1989 and was officially demolished in 1990. This paved the way for reunification of Germany later that year.

Back to our tour and Checkpoint Charlie. Tacky it may be now but it was the best known of the crossing points between east and west and hence the starting point of the day’s episode of Maw tours. It is really just a photo opportunity although there is an interesting exhibition nearby.

We continued on our way to The Topographie des Terrors. This outdoor museum which gave a detailed display of the history of Germany, the rise of the Nazis and how life changed when they were in power, was excellent and very moving. It was also very long and the ground very hot, so after hopping around for while I had to escape to the shade of a nearby building. The site also contains the longest section of remaining wall.

Potsdamer Platz, the Memorial to Murdered Jews, Brandenburger Tor, the Reichstag and it’s dome all became a bit of the blur in the oppressive heat. But despite the heat Berlin was buzzing. It was in the middle of what they call the Special Olympics and a Shot Putting competition was in process when we arrived at the platz behind Brandenburger Tor, drawing huge crowds and lots of cheering. Can’t say I’m very interested in Shot Put even if it does involve a ball, but everyone else seemed to enjoy it. Then we escaped to the lovely cool garden of a cafe in the trees in Tiergarten Park – bliss!

Eventually the purgatory was over and we headed back on the U Bahn to Tempelhof. It was even too hot for them. Sightseeing was limited to the main sights and no one had any desire to repeat the exercise until the weather cooled, so over cold beers and plenty of water we decided to move on tomorrow instead of staying another day. I cheered silently, as of course I have no say in the matter.

Berlin to Spandau – 25th June 2022

Another hot day but at least we were on the move. More sightseeing, but this time by boat. I think they saw more sights travelling through the centre on the Spree than pounding the boiling pavements yesterday. Best of all it didn’t involve me so I could sleep in the sun and ignore it all.

Eventually we reached the lock at the end of the Spree, exited onto the Havel and moored up at Marina Aldstadt at Spandau. Perfect, apart from the metal. Brian’s has been digging around in the boat and found the boots they bought for Benson, my predecessor, so I had to try them on. The laughed at me as I goose stepped around the deck. YOU should try it!

Across the bridge from the marina is an island named Eiswerder and on Eiswerder there were lots of swimming spots so all in all this is a pretty perfect place. They wanted to go to the fish restaurant on the quay but it was Saturday night, so not surprisingly it was booked up. They decided to have their takeaway fish and chips instead – very good I believe, not a soggy chip in sight.

Spandau – 26th June 2022

The final car moving day and as Mags and Robert could look after me, Brian decided to go with Alison. So on yet another very hot day they set off for the S Bahn leaving us to relax, swim, relax and swim. The train to Potsdam was fine, the cycle through Babelsberg park nice and cool in the trees and the drive to Zehdenick uneventful. Then they had a lovely lunch at Da Vinci restaurant by the schleuse. So far so good. Then it all went wrong. It didn’t bode well when the station platform started to fill up – with people, bikes, pushchairs etc. Then along came the already busy two carriage train. Bikes were shoved on, people packed in and the train just got hotter and hotter. It was 30 odd degrees outside but when the train stopped at a station and the doors opened – to let more and more people on – there was actually a blast of cold air, so you can imagine the heat inside. Apparently the air conditioning had broken! Then finally, to add insult to injury they announced that due to technical difficulties the train was terminating a station early, which meant they missed their connection to Spandau. I’m just glad I wasn’t there! Alison said she will never complain about Northern Rail again.

When they did eventually return Alison just needed a swim and Brian a beer. In the end they all swam off the boat – except me! I was desperate to jump in but it was a long way down.

Spandau to Marina Havelbaude – 27th June

Before we could leave Spandau we had to visit the Citadel, a well preserved 16th century fortress now housing a museum, bat colony and venue for summer festivals. Contrary to popular belief, although there was a prison here many years ago, this was not the place Rudolf Hess was held, that was in Spandau prison on another site. It does have a dark side though as during the 2nd world war the citadel was taken over by the Nazis’ and used for developing chemical weapons.

A short 2 hour trip north brought us to the Marina Havelbaude in Hohen Neuendorf, recommended to us by Connie and Michael. Thank you Connie and Michael, it was definitely one for me. I could I get into the water for a swim AND there were lots of paths through the pine woods behind the marina where I could run off lead and explore.

Everyone is swimming now, it is so hot it’s essential. This time though I could swim with them, something that is a bit of a novelty for me so I wasn’t sure what to do. I think I covered quite a distance swimming from one to another, but one thing we did find out – I am a much faster swimmer than any of them! Perhaps I’ll enter some competitions.

After the first swim there was activity below deck ….. and then out came Alison’s Christmas present, a paddle board! With help and advice from the harbour master it was soon blown up and on the water and Alison paddling in a kneeling position – as advised – for the first 10 minutes. Then it was time to stand up.. It’s all about the core I am told so would all those pilates classes help? Umm, well it was very wobbly to start with but then she realised she could use the paddle as support. That was fine but meant she couldn’t paddle! Then she got it…. well sort of.

Dinner at the marina restaurant and I was allowed to go too! Italian and very good, they said. All I can say is that the staff were very nice.

Marina Havelbaude to Zehdenick – 28th June 2022

After another swim and play on the paddleboard we continued north along the Havel to what will be our final destination for this trip. This time however, we were just passing so Mags and Robert could experience some of the southern Mecklenburg Lake area. We did spend the night in Zehdenick but this time in the small marina adjacent to the Italian restaurant where they had lunch on the fateful car moving trip. The name is Da Vinci and it is just through the Zehdenick lock.

Zehdenick to Bredereiche – 29th June 2022

The plan was to get to Furstenberg via the Havel but delays at the locks, even in this out of season period, meant we only got as far as Bredereiche and the hafen run by Boothaus-Bandelow. Good news for me though as the mooring was right next to a beach so I could sneak in for a swim before all the children arrived.
The journey here was very beautiful as the river is quite narrow and very twisty. The pace is slow which suits me just fine. I think I’m going to enjoy here in September. There are some unusual sights on this river though. Houseboats seem to be a popular choice but basically it seems anything goes. I’m sure in September we will many more waterborne variations.

Bredereiche to Zehdenick – 30th June 2022

Back to Zehenick, but this time to the marina Annapanna will be based until next year. Marina Zedenick is large and very smart and situated on a lovely lake. Even the metal pontoons are smart as they have much smaller gaps between strips so there is less risk of getting my claws caught. I can even walk on them normally. We have a good mooring on an outer pontoon so they can swim from the boat. Not me though but it wasn’t problem as the owner of the marina has a dog (a big french water dog) so he told us where I could go. My beach, just down the road from the marina, was perfect, even if it was full of mosquitoes.

Then it was vet time. Dr Bernd Ligner was recommended by someone at the marina and very nice he was too. I’m a bit unusual I think as I love going to the vets and was a bit disappointed when he didn’t even need me to go inside. Both my passports were duly stamped (the UK one as a precaution as we haven’t used the Dutch one yet to get back into the country) and we were on our way. See you in September Dr Ligner.

Left home alone at night as they went back to Da Vinci for dinner. There is a Food van at the marina that sells Greek food and drinks with lots of tables outside – always good for scavenging. By the time we return at the end of August they will have moved into a new building, currently under construction. Good news all round as they like Greek food and I like anything!

Zehdenick – 1st July 2022

The day started out lovely and sunny and a little bit cooler, but by early afternoon the rain had started and carried on pretty much all day. I did manage to get to my swimming spot – the weather doesn’t stop me – and they managed to get lots of jobs done ( I don’t understand these ”jobs” and won’t bore you with the details). In theory this means we have time tomorrow to enjoy the sun instead of cleaning, packing and all those other essentials they do every time we go home.

Zehdenick to Hanover – 2nd July 2022

It is an 8 hour journey to Europort so rather than do it in one day we are splitting the journey so we can enjoy one last day in the sunshine. There still seemed to be loads of boring jobs to finish first, but then we were off in Little Dick across the lake to MY beach. Mags, Alison and I were dropped off for a swim and a play whilst Brian and Robert went off exploring.

The lake is so peaceful, especially in the early morning when Mags liked to swim and Alison practise on her paddleboard. There are no waves from passing boats making it a perfect place for a novice.

Eventually everything was packed and Annapanna clean, if not exactly shiny. Off we set to Hanover where eventually we found a hotel for the night. Well it was a Saturday night! I think next time they may be better organised as it all got a bit fraught at one point!

Hanover to Europort to Whalley – 3rd July 2022

I’m finishing this blog by covering the last 2 days of our trip in a single post. My followers will have noticed a delay in updates and a lack of photos which is due to a refusal to download and lots of issues with updating, which unfortunately Mr Google can’t help with. I hope to sort it once I get home and will add the missing photos then, but in the meantime many apologies for the delay.

We left our hotel near Hanover with 5 hours drive still ahead of us but a plan to break the journey in Amersfoort, a place we stayed in 2019 and liked very much. Amersfoort with very busy and very noisy as there was a music festival on. I don’t like noise and we ran out of time to walk round the rampart gardens – so I was not impressed with this stop. I think it will be my turn to choose next time.

We eventually arrived at Europort and I rushed into the ferry terminal to get my cookies. All the paperwork had to be checked first and then my chip scanned before they gave me anything. It was worth the wait though. The staff told us that Geraldine, our favourite P&O customer services person, was on board tonight. They were delighted as Geraldine was a great friend of Benson, my predecessor and wrote a lovely email to them when he passed away. They met up with her in the bar – not me though. I might be in a doggy cabin rather than a kennel but I’m still confined to barracks.

Then it was home to Whalley via the dreaded M62, which actually was much better than expected. This brings me to the end of the blog for this trip but I’ll be back at the end of August – providing I can get the technical problems sorted!