Prologue

Here we are in 2025 and returning to Stockholm for our third year in the Baltic. I’m saying returning, but in fact I personally haven’t been to Stockholm yet as, if you remember, I was left at home with Roger whilst they flew out to Sweden last August for some end of summer cruising. I’m just hoping that this year is a lot less eventful than last year – for me anyway. It was one injury after another and seriously curtailed virtually everything I love to do. With swimming, long walks and playing ball off the agenda, the only pleasure left in my life was eating and you’ll be glad to know that my love of food, however monotonous it is, was never affected by my injuries. Not even after the surgery on my infected nail.

This year the plan is to sail down the east coast of Sweden, around the bottom and across to East Denmark. We will then head west via some of the lovely Danish islands before crossing into Germany to Kiel and a trip down its famous canal. Then it’s on to Hamburg before eventually leaving Annapanna in Papenburg for our usual return to the UK in July.

Before all that though we are spending almost a week travelling through Germany, Denmark and Sweden by car on a roundabout route back to Stockholm – arriving at Pampas Marine the day before Mags and Fiona fly in to join us.

May 15th 2025 – Whalley – Hull

Usual boring packing up the kitchen sink and for a time I was a bit worried I wasn’t included, so as soon as possible I got into the back of the car and stayed there, refusing to move even to go into the fields for a bit of a walk and play. But of course I was included, I refuse to accept my blog being ghost written more than once, and off we set to the ferry and…… the kennels! Not a dog friendly cabin I hear you ask? Well, no and it’s probably my own fault. I like the dog friendly cabins but I would prefer not to have to share them. They are very small and I need my space, so on my last trip I wasn’t a happy dog. The result is that this time I have an extra large kennel next to another Labrador, but unlike my poor neighbour I have my very comfy – and newly washed – bed to chill out in.

May 16th 2025 – Rotterdam – Bremerhaven

So how was my night back in the kennels? Actually not too bad I suppose, although I was definitely excited about being released when they eventually unlocked the door this morning. There were no yapping dogs to keep me awake and my neighbour was surprisingly quiet, probably because the rather embarrassing incontinence pads they put in the kennels were already in shreds by the time I arrived.

Then we were off, via a quick comfort and breakfast stop, to Bremerhaven and The Liberty hotel overlooking the New Harbour in this German port city. We are here for two nights so that Brian can go round the Maritime museum in the Old Harbour tomorrow. Yes, I am sharing their room and it isn’t enormous, but I can cope… I hope.

May 17th 2025 – Bremerhaven

Sunny, but windy day for our tourist pursuits – but first I had a good walk along the promenade and out to the Pingelterm. Then they took it in turns to go round the Maritime museum and the U boat in the old harbour whilst I just hung around in the sunshine waiting for them to finish.

May 18th 2025 – Bremerhaven to Skagen

Early off this morning as we had a long drive and wanted to get to Skagen in time to celebrate Alison’s birthday…… and it all started so well! We took a distance short cut by using the ferry from Wischhafen to Gluckstadt, then headed north up through Germany and into Denmark. Then, in a very successful effort to completely ruin her birthday, Alison managed to leave her phone in the loo at a German service station. She didn’t notice until the next stop… in Denmark. After discovering that it had been handed into the cash point in the shop we had no choice but to turn round and head back into Germany. That was about a 250km detour and scuppered any chance of getting to Ruth’s Hotel for dinner, so the birthday meal was at a motorway service station instead. We eventually arrived at the lovely hotel in an old part of Skagen, on the Skagerrak rather than Kattegat side, just as the sun was setting.

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May 19th 2025 – Skagen

Eventually we made it to Skagen. Not just a few hours late, but a whole year after we originally planned to visit this place, we got here. Skagen is at the northern most tip of Denmark and the site where the Baltic meets the North Sea (or the Kattegat meets the Skagerrak). It is a popular holiday destination and unfortunately also a stop off for some enormous cruise ships…. And unfortunately again, at the same time Alison was cycling and Brian and I were driving to Grenen and the nearest point to the tip, so were 6000 others from a German cruise ship! It certainly wasn’t a solitary experience and the crowds definitely interfered with my water fun. We did manage to get to the place where waters meet though and from the photo you wouldn’t know there were hundreds of people behind! We walked back a different way, along the North Sea coast and into the dunes behind – only us and a few very serious looking birders…. Must have been some interesting life around but without large lenses or even binoculars, we couldn’t see anything. Separately, Brian went round the Bunker museum first then headed to the tip on the tractor bus, which promptly got stuck in the sand! He made it though, then we all headed back into town for lunch.

The delayed birthday dinner was now a double celebration as today was their wedding anniversary. Of course I was left home alone in our lovely hotel room whilst they celebrated in the hotel restaurant. Lovely food, lovely staff and very lovely hotel, the said. I was disturbed later though so I could be rushed down to the meeting point for sunset. Me, a few other dogs and quite a few humans all came out of the woodwork to watch the sun go down on a beautiful evening.

May 20th 2025 Skagen to Jonkoping

After another early morning walk and leisurely breakfast we said goodbye to the wonderful staff at this delightful hotel and set off for Frederikshavn and the ferry to Gothenburg. We could easily have stayed longer here although the part of the town we were in was definitely the place to be. Alison did check out the other hotels she had looked at and wasn’t keen on any of them. Our overall experience and memories would have been very different if we hadn’t decided to splurge out and stay at Ruth’s. They can thank me for that though, as it was just about the only place left in town that still accepted dogs!

So, onto the ferry. This is the sort of ferry I like with a special doggy area and lots of room to spread out. No kennels here, just lots of people to talk to and other dogs to ignore. P&O could do the same…. Maybe. Anyway, 3 hours later we arrived in Gothenburg and drove onto Jonkoping, our destination for the night. The Vox was a trendy chain hotel right on the shore of Lake Vattern. Our room was on the 6th floor, had lots of clever little gimmicks and floor to ceiling windows overlooking the lake – which was a bit disconcerting when they put my bed right by the window!

May 21st 2025 – Jonkoping to Pampas Marina, Solna, Stockholm

Up and off in the morning so we had time for a stop off at Vadstena, on the eastern shore of Lake Vattern. Alison and I have been here before, when we moved the car from Karlsborg to Motala, but Brian hasn’t and we felt it shouldn’t be missed. With a wonderful castle right at the waters edge and mooring under the castle walls, it’s quite spectacular. There is also a lovely walled town and the oldest town hall in Sweden… plus a great bakery and coffee shop!

Then it was onward to Pampas and Annapanna.

Annapanna was in the water and moored just about as far away for the shore as was possible. It was blowing a gale and freezing cold, so loading up the kitchen sink on to Annapanna wasn’t something to look forward to… this was for them of course, I’d just remain in the warmth of the car until my things were ready….The joy of being a dog and having no responsibilities. Fortunately Oskar, the very young guy who seems to be in charge here, suggested we move the boat and helped Brian to re-locate her to one of the boat lift bays which wasn’t being used. Perfect, well for them, but not for me as I didn’t like the metal shelf I had to negotiate to get on board.

May 22nd 2025 – Pampas Marina

Busy day today and it was very cold and windy. To make matters worse the heating on the boat only seems to be working in the main saloon and cabin, which is a problem as Mags and Fiona arrive today and their cabins are freezing! Alison tried to buy a second hot water bottle at the supermarket but they looked at her in amazement when she tried to explain what one was! Quick call to Fiona solved that issue though, so at least they have one each…. Plus extra duvets and eiderdowns that haven’t seen the light of day for years. I’d like to point out at this stage that no one considered how cold I might be at night and give me extra blankets or covers. I just had to suffer in silence – and I was cold last night, let me assure you of that!

Other than shopping most of the day was taken up with airport trips. Firstly Mags, who arrived 5 minutes early on her SAS flight in the afternoon, then Fiona, who was delayed by 3 hours on her Ryanair flight, getting into Arlanda eventually at 9pm.

May 23rd 2025 – Pampas Marina to Washamnen Marina Stockholm

A short two hour move today back to our favorite central Stockholm marina right outside the museums of Djurgarden, including, very importantly, the ABBA museum – the main highlight of Fiona’s short weekend trip. Alison had been in constant contact with the harbour master trying to get place 20, the one they got last year, but it was not available. However, she eventually reserved another great place for us, inside the marina and along the same pontoon. Thank you for your efforts, appreciated by everyone on board.

This was supposed to be a girly weekend and, I can assure you, am a girl, but I was not included in the first outing – a trip to Gamla Stan, the old town, via the ferry. Not impressed but maybe it will get better. Anyway, off they went wandering round the old streets, up to the Royal Palace where they checked out the guards (who Fiona thought looked Russian), over to Riddarholmen and the church where the royal family are buried, then back to the Stotorget, the oldest square in Stockholm and the home of the Nobel Prize Museum. Here they celebrated the weekend with a drink in one of the old bars in the square.

May 23rd 2025 – Stockholm

As well as the ABBA museum, Fiona was determined to do the only park run in Stockholm, Haga park run. She should have been to Sweden a year or so ago to do the Ice run, but passport issues put paid to that and so she missed out, whilst Ian and the others carried on. As they also did the park run this was a necessity! Haga Park is a 30 minute cycle away, so down came the Bromptons and off cycled Fiona and Alison leaving the rest of us in bed! Alison hasn’t done a park run for 2 years and only run on the treadmill in the gym, but decided she might as well do it…. And she did, without any walking I’m told, but rather slower than Fiona! Then it was back in the bikes, a cycle round the park then a rather more complicated route back, supposedly on the Royal Parks cycle route.

Then it was ABBA time…. Without me, again. This is not the girly weekend I was envisaging. In July 2023 Alison, Fiona, Mags and Ian all went to ABBA voyage in London. They were all ABBA fans before but after such a great spectacle they became committed ABBA fans, and as committed fans they had to go to the ABBA museum in the city where it all began, in Stockholm. Alison resisted the temptation to go last September so they could all go together on their girly weekend. So today was the big day. Unlike at Voyage, they didn’t dress up this time – luckily for the locals, but it was just as good in different ways. They learnt a lot about their heros and embarrassed themselves in the silent disco! Not sure the silent disco would have been my scene, especially as the headphones won’t have fitted!

Then I was left again whilst they went out for dinner – and I have to give this meal a very special mention. Brian had booked a table at the restaurant of the Spirit Museum where they had been before and had a good evening. When they arrived at the restaurant they knew nothing about the reservation and the main area was closed. With no heaters available in the bar area that was open, having a meal there was a non starter. And how lucky was that! Walking away they looked at the menu for the Viking museum but assumed it was shut. It wasn’t. They had just re-opened in the evening 2 days before, so they went there instead. It was warm, cozy, friendly and the food fantastic. Alison says it is the best meal they’ve had in Sweden. The chef is from Ukraine and is a great find. They urge you to go. People haven’t clocked on to the fact that it’s open again in the evenings yet and they need more customers.

May 24th 2025 – Stockholm

Fiona’s last day. After a more leisurely start (for them) Fiona and Alison went scootering round Djurgarden, the island we are moored on. They wanted to go all round the island but that idea was scuppered by the scooter area limits as speeding along the canal towards the east side the scooters suddenly stopped! Then it was back to the cafe at the Visitor centre for Fika, that all important part of Swedish culture. In other words a pause, chat, coffee and that even more important cinnamon bun.

Then it was time to say goodbye to Fiona as she caught the tram then Flixbus to the airport. Her flight was delayed…. Again… but only by an hour this time. We will all miss you Fiona, please come again.

May 26th 2025 – Stockholm – Skansholmen Marina on Morko

Time to say goodbye to Wasahamnen Marina and begin our slow journey south down the east coast of Sweden. As we arrived via the more northern islands of the archipelago, the plan was to leave via the southern route, back through the Stockholm lock then west towards the narrow waterway leading south to the city of Sodertalje. All went well, nice and calm for me, nice and sunny for them, until we got to Sodertalje where there was clearly a major project in process – and the lock – did we even know there was a lock? – was shut. Panic stations! Should we have known about this? Without trusty (well sometimes) PC Navigo where do we get this information? With visions of having to return to Stockholm to take the northern route, which would add 3 days onto our journey, we flagged down a work boat to ask what was happening and to our relief they told us the lock would open again in 30 minutes…. Phew! So we moored up at the very new pontoon, paid 320 krona to pass through the lock, then had a quick explore round the area. It looks like a nice place and as there is also a major city upgrade project (including harbour facilities we think) this place will be a good stop in the future. Not just yet though as they are only half way through the canal upgrade which is an 8 year project aimed at improving accessibility through the canal to relieve the road network by facilitating maritime transport. That is via, what they proudly state, the largest lock in the Nordic countries. They are also building a new sustainable bridge plus there are lots of other initiatives, which all come under the name of the “Sodertalje Project”.

Bang on time the largest lock in the Nordic countries opened a gate (only one works, so they can’t take that maritime traffic yet) and we passed through and then underneath a bridge (possibly where the new sustainable bridge is going) and continued our way south. We arrived at our destination Skansholmen Marina on the island of Morko in the southern part of the Stockholm archipelago. Morko is a picturesque and large island known for its forests, lush environment and beautiful coastline. Much like the rest of Sweden then! We only saw a tiny bit of it so I can’t really comment but…. I will agree with the coastline, as today I got my first swim!

May 27th 2025 – Skansholmen to Trosa

Short day today and back to a favorite place of theirs from last year, beautiful Trosa. For Mags and me it is a first visit so we walked along the pretty canal, had a smorgasbrod overlooking the water, then wandered into town. Then it was back to the harbour to try and pay our dues but everything was still shut up. From the sign near the boat it looks like the fees don’t start until June, so a free night with electricity will always go down well with Brian! Then the weather changed from warm (ish) and sunny to cold, wet and windy, so apart from my essential walks and a bit of shopping it was back on boat with the heating on!

May 28th 2025 – Trosa – Navekvarn

Alison changed her mind yesterday and decided we should go to Navekvarn instead of our planned destination of Oxelsund. She justified it by saying that although it would take an hour longer it would subsequently reduce the next leg by a similar amount. Umm, well I’m not sure about that as Navekvarn is a little way up the Braviken fjord which goes to the city of Norrkoping, but we’ll see. The reason she wanted to come here was because two separate people had recommended it – It was on Mimi’s list and Gunner thought we should have kept Annapanna here last winter. Importantly, the transport links to Stockholm we similar to Oxelsund so it wouldn’t affect tomorrows task of traveling back to Pampas to pick up the car.

So we arrived, after a beautiful journey on a lovely still day. Weaving between the many islands and inlets of the south Stockholm archipelago including Savo, the most northerly island of a group of 4 with Hartso, Ringso and Langso and Stendorren, the beautiful inlet within a the national park they anchored in last August. We got a perfect mooring alongside the main visitor pontoon and off I went for an urgently needed walk with Mags whilst Alison sought out the laid back harbour master. Could we pay by dock spot? They have just signed up to it but he has no idea how it works! OK, she said I’ll give it a try. We are now booked in for two nights, probably in the right spot, although it wasn’t easy as they aren’t numbered, so he’ll be a happy man.

Then it was time to sort out the transport back to Stockholm where we encountered a problem. We knew it was Ascension Day this weekend but just assumed the bank holiday would be Monday, but it isn’t, it’s tomorrow! This means the early buses to Nykoping to get the connection to Stockholm aren’t running and the first bus, at 09.20 means they will miss the Flixbus connection. Not a good day to travel! Anyway, they can get there, on the train and a bit later than planned but with still enough time to go to the royal palace at Drottningholm on the way back. This by the way is Mags and Alison, leaving Brian and I home alone.

After dinner we went for a walk around the nearby island, Skaret. It’s joined to the mainland by a long rickety bridge and has footpaths right round it. There are a couple of barbecue areas and collections of wood to make the fires – plus the views from various points are beautiful. I think it will be fly infested when it gets warmer, but for now it suits me just fine.

May 29th 2025 – Navekvarn

Mags and Alison went off for the 09.20 bus to Nykoping, caught the train to Stockholm, Uber’d to Pampas to pick up the car, then drove to the royal palace of Drottningholm. Everything went to plan and the royal palace was impressive – particularly the gardens. The only disappointment was that they couldn’t view the theatre, as it was only allowed on the conducted tour and they missed that by 10 minutes. Shame.

They got back about 6pm to a harbour transformed. During the day the restaurant/bar opened, the motor home area filled up and people came out of the woodwork to clean or take out their boats. To celebrate this we all then went for a beer in the sunshine and for the first time it felt like things were switching to summer/holiday mode.

May 30th 2025 – Navekvarn to Fyrudden

We set off on a cold, wet and windy day, half expecting to turn back if the conditions worsened – but they didn’t. Well protected by the many islands of the Sankt Anna archipelago the wind didn’t really affect us and we had a smooth, if cold, morning sail. Then the sun came out and we arrived at Fyrudden harbour on a beautiful afternoon. We were a little concerned about this mooring as in the harbour guide it says it doesn’t open until 1st June and they couldn’t get hold of the harbour master to check. We needn’t have worried though as it was definitely open as were the ice cream parlour, pizza place, deli and restaurant.

We got a perfect alongside mooring outside the ice cream shop which meant lots of people to say hello to and beg for some ice cream (I forgot to tell you that my pleading worked a treat in Navekvarn as a lovely old man insisted I go over and share his ice cream). We then wandered down the quay and met the very nice Mr Big of Fyrudden who was showing the ropes to the new harbour master, who starts work tomorrow. We tried to pay for our mooring but Mr Big had just printed off a boat ticket to show his new employee and said we could have it…. For free…. As long as we bought an ice cream! Good deal if you ask me, even if they didn’t sell doggy ice cream. He also booked us a place in his restaurant for later and told us where we should walk and what we should see whilst we’re here.

Then, Mags, Alison and I went for a walk over to the other side of this little peninsula and found a little sandy beach for me to play on and swim from. Perfect. I even got a stick to chase this time so managed some water therapy on my slightly iffy elbow. One happy dog and ice cream later Alison got down her bike, blew up the flat tyre, lubed the rusty chain and checked the gears. Then she went off for a ride down to the Ekon nature reserve. Beautiful, she said but would be even better to visit on foot as there are lots of footpaths to explore. Then it was back, change and out for dinner to the lovely Restaurant Fyrudden. Beautiful decor, friendly staff and excellent food, all overseen by Mr Big. We definitely recommend this place, so don’t miss it when you visit.

May 31st 2025 – Fyrudden – Vastervik

I don’t think we are having long enough in some of these places, especially when they are as beautiful as this area. We could have had a nice long walk around Ekon today, but no, we’re back on the boat travelling to the big town of Vastervik (which the Swedes will definitely call a city). Having said that it was a beautiful and calm so I’ve no complaints in that department. Sleeping in the sun without being buffeted around is always a bonus.

We arrived in Slottsholmen Marina and found a mooring place on a long pontoon overlooking the sea and next to the causeway leading into town one way and the nature reserves and golf club in the other. Then we had a disaster! We were about to go in to explore the town, Brian was filling up with water and Mags was waiting for Alison on the pontoon with me. Brian asked Mags to put the top back on the water inlet so she put her phone in her pocket, leant over to screw it back on and….. her phone fell out of her pocket into the water!! Not just her phone though, her debit card too! I said it was a disaster!. After talk of divers or finding a very long handled net (like they have in locks) we reasoned over a much needed drink, that spending money on retrieving it would be a bit of a waste of time. The phone will be ruined anyway and the card can be cancelled., not that anyone can use it when it’s (more than) 6 feet under! We now just hope that was the right decision!

We did eventually make it into town, which has a very nice quay and some lovely old streets and buildings but I don’t think we really did it justice. But there were more walks later, along the long promenade and park around Stegeholm, the ruins of the old fortress protecting the town, and then up to the museum and old lighthouse over the causeway. I like this place

June 1st 2025 – Vastervik to Oskarshamn

It all started so well. Our early start meant the first few hours of weaving through the many islands of the archipelago were calm and sunny. But then the wind did get up, just as the islands disappeared, and as far as I’m concerned the last couple of hours were pure hell! Well not hell exactly, as I made sure I cuddled up right next to Mags and pretended I was somewhere else, but not great. I don’t think Mags was too happy either, so at least we could comfort each other.

Eventually we arrived in Oskarshamn’s Bradholmen Marina and were helped into our mooring by the harbour master. We are here for 5 nights! 5 nights without waves tossing us around – pure bliss! We aren’t staying here though, which I think they are glad about as the verdict is that they much prefer Vastervik, we are off to the island of Gotland on the ferry. I like these ferries. They have doggy areas so I can stay with them and importantly, they do not rock around all over the place! But firstly they have to get the car, so tomorrow Mags and Alison are returning to Navekvarn on the Flixbus.

June 2nd 2025 – Oskarshamn

Quite quite a boring day for me today. Early morning walk and then another one with Brian, but as Mags and Alison had gone off to get the car from Navekvarn early this morning there wasn’t a lot going on. Eventually they came back – it was a 3 1/2 hour bus trip followed by a 3 hour drive – but even though it all went to plan, it was a long day. Then Brian and Alison went straight off with the punctured tyre to try and find a bike shop. Amazingly, in a city this size, there aren’t any, so Alison decided to do it herself! As it’s about a hundred years since either of them changed or mended a tyre it was all a bit amateurish, but fortunately Martin (as Sally and Martin from Navekvarn arrived today) was rather more competent, so it was all done and dusted quite quickly. Just hope it stays up now!

I did eventually get a decent walk on a beautiful evening, even if it was only to check out the ferry terminal and possible parking options. Mags and I managed a rest on the enormous chairs on the prom on the way there. These chairs seem to be a common theme on the coast as they had them in Vastervik as well.

June 3rd 2025 – Oskarshamn to Visby, Gotland

It didn’t start well. Packing up for our two days away Alison realized she couldn’t find her purse! She had it on the FlixBus yesterday as she had to get her card out to pay for Mag’s replacement driving license, but after that it was just on her phone, as usual. So, did she put it back in her back pack? Did it come out when she pulled her jumper out or…. was it stolen? No idea, but the odds are on the FlixBus. Can you believe it! In two days we have lost a phone, debit card and driving license in the water, followed by a purse, 3 credit cards, driving license and European medical card. This isn’t just bad luck – but fortunately not one jot of this affects me! I don’t need any cards of any kind, apart from my passport. DO NOT under any circumstances lose that!

Unfortunately, the super efficient FlixBus is not so super efficient with items possibly left behind. It could take up to two weeks they said and no amount of pleading or saying how ridiculous it was made any difference. This was their system. Fill in the form and wait! There was no choice but to freeze the cards whilst they wait. Thank goodness for the cardless Revolut. This will now really come into its own.

With nothing to be done we caught the ferry to Visby on the island of Gotland. The decision was that it would take too long to go with Annapanna (8 hours is too long for me) and so she is staying in Oskarshamn whilst we sailed on a Destination Gotland ferry to the island. I love big ferries and this was no exception. There were loads of dogs in the doggie lounge but I got ALL the attention…. Or at least all the attention of a lovely group of 13 year old boys on an end of term school trip to the island to visit the water park. They kept coming back, again and again and again….. I had my picture taken with all of them, gave them lots of kisses and they gave me lots of hugs. Even for me it was exhausting!

Three hours later we arrived at Visby, the World Heritage site and perfectly preserved Medieval city. We are even staying in a medieval hotel right next to the Cathedral. I have a bed (a bit small but I can manage), a blanket and a chew. I need no more so was happy to be left alone whilst they went to the Stora Toget, or main square, for dinner.

June 4th 2025 – Visby

Alison decided she should report her lost purse to the police, so assuming Sweden had a national database we all set off to Osterport and the police station. Report duly completed we started a tour of the very well preserved city walls. This was perfect for me as outside the walls it was just tracks and grassland so I could run around off the lead and not bother anyone. Lots of informations boards along the way told us about the restoration work and history of the many different gates and buildings. We then met up with Brian in the Botanical Gardens and headed for the Habour area for lunch and ice cream (at Europes largest ice cream shop with 356 flavors to choose from). Then it was a city tour by little train before a wander through the shopping streets within the old town walls. I was exhausted! And although a sleep in the hotel garden helped revive me a little, I just wanted to be left alone in the evening and luckily I was. They went back to near Stora Torget for dinner to Gamla Masters, a restaurant recommended by the owners of the hotel. Excellent was the verdict!

June 5th 2025 Visby – Oskarshamn

Another sunny but windy day and another walk round the city walls. This time we completed the circuit but it wasn’t quite the same as I couldn’t go off lead for very long. Shame, but I’ll live. Then we headed into the town, did a bit of window shopping and had coffee in the cafe garden within the ruins of St Hans. Then a bit more shopping – this time Alison bought some earrings – before meeting up with Brian for lunch in the main square.
After that it was back on the ferry and home to Oskarshamn and Annapanna. Then they unpacked and guess what? Right at the bottom of the backpack both Alison and Brian had supposedly searched, was the missing purse!! Honestly! They should have sent the sniffer dog in, I’d have found it! All cards now reactivated and things back to normal – apart from Mags phone of course which remains at the bottom of the harbour!

June 6th 2025 – Oskarshamn to Borgholm on Oland

This morning, bright and early, we left our mooring in Oskarshamn and sailed to Borgholm, a town and harbour on the west coast of Oland. Oland is Sweden’s second largest island – after Gotland. It is 137 Km long and 16 km wide and is known for its natural environment including Great Alvar, a limestone plain. Between Sweden’s east coast and Oland is the Kalmar Sound and it was this sound we sailed across on yet another windy day! I’m happy to tell you though, that the wind was on our nose (impressed with my boat speak?) and so the trip wasn’t actually too bad and our early start meant we were moored up and wrapped up when the rain came!

Our mooring, in the guest harbour outside the Strand Hotel, is surrounded by restaurants. We can’t quite believe how many. There must be a lot of people here in high season to keep them all going! Then just beyond the harbour, on the road to the national park, are some beautiful old wooden houses. We know the Swedish Royal Family like to holiday on the island and we suspect there is a lot of other wealth here too.

A little later the sun came out so it was time to explore further. Firstly we checked out the town – nice Main Street with some interesting shops, all closed as it is Swedish National Flag Day today and hence a Bank Holiday. Next, we set off to find the local castle, Borgholm Slott, via the wonderful woodland paths of the nature reserve of Halltorps Hage. The Slott is actually a ruin after being destroyed by fire in 1806, but even as a ruin it is very impressive. Built originally in the second half of the 13th century its site, high on the cliff top overlooking Kalmar sound, is quite spectacular.

Finally, I can’t sign off today without telling you about the Volvo rally. In 1995, 30 years ago, Volvo built 2500 yellow Volvos ( we have yet to find out why) and this weekend quite a few of them are meeting here for a celebration rally. There were a few other colors around too, but all the cars were built in 1995 and several had posters detailing their history.

June 7th 2025 – Borgholm to Kalmar

A bit of a debate today as it was very windy, but after checking the sea visually Brian decided that there should be enough protection within the relatively narrow sound to make the crossing. So we did and it was fine. I cuddled up, put my head down.. and then we were there, moored up against the quay two boats down from Martin and Sally. The quay is a bit high so my passerelle (otherwise known as the ramp) came out to help me back on board.

Kalmar is a car move place so Alison decided she was going to go and get it today, leaving tomorrow free for sightseeing. So off they went, back on the FlixBus, for the short 50 minute ride back to Oskarshamn. Then after a visit to ICA Maxi to try and find some fish, they wandered back from the long stay car park past the harbour fish shop and restaurant! Of course the shop was shut by then but they liked the look of the restaurant, so decided to go back later. They had prawns, both smoked and normal, hundreds of them (well Brian said it felt like that). Verdict. Nice restaurant, lovely waiter, too many prawns. The restaurant is called Blomlofs and there is another branch in Karlskrona, where we are heading to in a few days. Hopefully the shop will be open this time.

June 8th 2025 – Kalmar

I don’t really like sightseeing but it’s ok when it involves a walk through the park and a stop at the Slott restaurant. Of course it wasn’t off lead, but it was ok and there were lots of other dogs around so I could ignore them. So, let me tell you about Kalmar Slott, or castle. It is, the blurb says, the best preserved renaissance castle in the Nordic countries. Built during the 13th century, then extended and modernised in the 16th century as part of a defence plan, the King and his sons also transformed the area within the walls into an opulent renaissance palace.

I wasn’t allowed inside the palace, so Mags and I headed for coffee whilst Brian and Alison joined the English speaking conducted tour. A very good tour I believe, mainly because of the stories and enthusiasm of the tour leader. She made it all very personal, giving them lots of details of the various Kings, their families and of course their fall outs. Then we went up onto the ramparts for a view over the Kalmar sound before wandering back to the boat.

Then Mags and Alison went off again to explore the Gamla Stan, or old town, then the “new” town, which isn’t actually very new at all as the town was moved to its present site in the mid 1600s. In the old town they wandered round the cobbled streets and found the Krusensriernska garden, a lovely green space with a cafe, old farm buildings used as a bit of a museum and lots of colourful flowers. They then headed to the Rose Garden next door but they were a bit disappointed as it was too early and not many roses were in flower. After that they wandered over to the new town to see the cathedral, water tower and main shopping street before coming across a sports bar with loads of televisions all showing the French Open final! That was it then! With a glass of rose and a comfy sofa they watched Sinner win the first set before deciding that this was going to go on a long time and they’d better get back….. to me! – and Brian of course. Just as well they did. The match lasted 5 1/2 hours before Alcatraz eventually took the 5th set and the match on a tie break. That would have been a lot of rose!!

June 9th 2025 – Kalmar

Alison went out for a run early this morning (only her second of the year) and came across a doggy beach on the footpath along the Sund. I am so glad she did as it meant we could go there on my walk later in the morning. Perfect, or it would have been if only I had a ball. We could go on the walk today because we weren’t moving on anywhere else. It was very windy today, too gusty to go out to sea, so we stayed put and walked and shopped instead.

June 10th 2025 – Kalmar – Kristianopel

We had already decided that rather than a 6 1/2 hour journey to Sandhamn we would only go as far as Kristianopel. Initially vetoed because the harbour guide said it was all buoy mooring, Brian’s expensive little app said otherwise. A call to the harbour master confirmed some alongside, so this became a much better option…. For me at least. Was I glad they made that decision! The wind might have dropped a bit since yesterday but I don’t think this transferred into the sea state. Luckily, it was all on the nose, as they say and although I’m much more relaxed when we’re going up and down rather than side to side (stabilisers or not), I was very glad when we arrived at the pretty little harbour at Kristianopel. I think Mags was even happier as she spent most of the journey with her eyes shut, wishing, I suspect, she was somewhere else!

We arrived at the harbour in the pouring rain and it continued to rain all afternoon and evening. Such a shame as this is such a lovely little place. We had to walk though, so off we went from one end of the old fortification to the other, walking along the top of the wall, playing ball and checking out the houses in this very small town. There is a very Danish looking church just behind the harbour, which is not surprising as the area used to belong to Denmark and Kristianopel was actually the first Danish town planned according to the architectural ideals of the Renaissance.

They had to shop of course, so went along to the single village shop near the harbour. There was a sign outside saying open until 21.00 so when Alison needed to go back later to get something else, she just assumed it would be open. It wasn’t. A bit of google translate later it revealed that after 15.00 it was self shop! All very clever. Download the app, log in, get a code and hey presto, the doors opened. Scan your items and pay as if on a self service till. Leave the shop and the doors lock behind you. Seriously impressed.

June 11th – Kristianopel to Karlskrona

Well at least the rain had stopped by the morning even if it was still blowing a gale. Another early start so we could get tho Karlskrona in time for Alison and Mags to catch the bus back to Kalmar to pick up the car. There has been a lot of car movement recently but this was supposed to be the last one until we get to Dragor, in Denmark. I say supposedly as there is a bit of a problem. A maximum 7 day problem even though we have a 30 day ticket!

Returning to our sail today. Yes, it was very windy, which seems to be the norm round here, but this time the waves were on our beam (I’m getting good at this sea speak), so the stabilisers did their bit. I was as happy as I’ll ever be when we’re sailing and Mags kept her eyes open, so it must have been ok. Once we turned the corner and travelled between the islands of the Blekinge archipelago on the south east coast, we didn’t even need the stabilisers. We arrived in the City Marina and were directed to a place on the long pontoon by the harbour master. Alison had rung ahead to check on the alongside mooring so he was expecting us. It makes life so much easier when we are told where to go, especially when it’s windy. No faffing about (especially important when I really need to get off), just straight into the mooring.

Then they were off, back to Kalmar at the front of a double decker bus. It wasn’t a long trip this time but they still, they only just got back in time to go for drinks with Martin and Sally, who we last saw in Kalmar. I wasn’t invited, I’d have probably got too excited anyway, but they said they’d had a lovely time before walking across the path and into the buzzing Italian restaurant in the marina.

June 12th 2025 – Karlskrona

Another day here for sight seeing, my least favourite pastime. Karlskrona city is situated on the island of Trosso, just one of the many that make up the Blekinge archipelago. Many of the near ones are connected by road and there is a hop on hop off boat to take people further afield. The city was founded in 1680 as a new Swedish naval base and remains the largest one in Sweden today. The well planned base and preserved city architecture resulted in it achieving World Heritage status by UNESCO in 1998. The archipelago, a biosphere reserve, was also given UNESCO status and according to the tourist information it is, to quote “the only place in the world where you can paddle around a UNESCO biosphere reserve while enjoying the amazing fortifications and buildings of a World Heritage city.”

There were things to explore. The Marinmuseum on the adjoining island of Stumholmen (the old naval base), the huge Stortorget, or main square, the pretty houses of Bjorkholmen, the old fishing harbour and it’s pop up restaurants, the Blekinge museum and the many streets linking the areas together. We split up. Brian wanted to go round the Marinmuseum, Mags and Alison wanted to explore the city. I wasn’t asked.

We all set off together and whilst Brian went inside to the museum we enjoyed the sunshine whilst exploring the naval site before heading to Stortorget to follow the tourist walking trail around the city. We walked miles, literally. Nearly 25,000 steps later one exhausted dog fell asleep in the sunshine. We did meet up with Brian afree our walk and all went for lunch at the wonderful Gelato on Borgmastareg.

After taking the opportunity to do a supermarket stock up with the car, Alison planned to go to see the traditional red houses in the village of Brandaholm on the island of Dragso…. By bike. But the bike wasn’t happy after it had its newly blown up tyre put back on and no amount of fiddling with the gears could sort it. It was rideable, just, but it wasn’t ideal. So Alison called on Martin…. Again… for advice. After trying some more adjustments he said it is usually a slightly off central wheel the causes it and hey presto, after re-siting it she was good to go. Thank you again Martin. Then she was off, back past the old fishing harbour onto the island of Salto and then over the bridge to Dragso. Google maps took her to a car park! Where were the red houses? All she could see was a large campsite! Then she noticed some steps in a corner and a group of people tidying up the undergrowth, so she went to ask them. Up the steps was the answer, then just wander round. They were all villagers and were on a massive tidy up mission ready for their big midsummer celebration. Lovely people, beautiful village. This is a seasonable village as in winter the water is switched off as the pipes (all above ground) freeze over. They all have second homes but consider this their main summer residence and are justly proud of where they live. Other than a couple of young girls who Alison suspects were visiting their grandparents, the many workers evident all over the village, were of pensionable age. There was lot of chat about preserving what they have for the next generation. We hope the next generation appreciates what they are doing.

Red house are used as an example of typical Swedishness across the globe and the 43 houses on Brandaholm are often used in Swedish advertising. You might think the whole village is rather twee and for some it might be, but on a beautiful summer evening with only locals around for company, Alison thought it was a bit magical. She did question though, how they coped with all the tourists using the hop on hop off ferry to explore the area at the height of the season.

June 13th – Karlskrona – Karlshamn (Vagga)

First thing this morning Alison returned to the tourist office to see if the lovely group of girls there had come up with any other ideas to solve the 7 day parking issue. Although we had bought a 30 day ticket (for the price of a few hours in a Manchester multistorey), the car had to be moved every 7 days, even though it could remain within the same parking area (The 7 days was non negotiable apart from one multistorey that we were too high for anyway). As Alison would not be back for the car for at least 8 days there was too much at stake just to risk it. Those lovely girls offered to move the car for us each day and Alison would pick the key up on her return. Great plan and very kind…. but…. the day she planned to return just happened to be Midsummer and hence a bank holiday and they would be shut! So we thanked them for their efforts but decided we would move the car again to Vagga marina, a short cycle from the train and bus station in Karlshamn.

After a lovely sail in still waters around the islands of the Blekinge archipelago we arrived in the harbour of Vagga. We weren’t sure what to expect as far as amenities were concerned, so imagine our delight when we found a great little cocktail bar, a smokery and deli with adjoining huge restaurant, an ice cream shed and a burger/pizza place. The setting is very scenic and our mooring against the tyres on the quay was perfect for me. Even better for those able to moor bow to, are the mooring in the guest section of the harbour looking out to sea. OK, this is not a hi-tec marina and some of the moorings could do with a bit of a face lift, but it is so peaceful and as it’s on the route of the ARK56 trail around the Blekinge archipelago, has a lovely walk/cycle path through mixed woodlands into the outskirts of Karlshamn. They call it the peninsula walk and Alison and I did it after dinner on a beautiful evening.

After Alison had gone back to Karlskrona on the train, picked up the car and parked in the harbour next to a closed down business of some sort, we all went for cocktails at the little bar. Then they went on for dinner at the seafood restaurant, virtually next door. Very good was the verdict even though Brian wasn’t keen on the self service/pay before you eat system.

, June 14th 2025 – Karlshamn (Vagga) – Ahus

We left the car behind in the harbour at Vagga and headed in a south westerly direction before turning down the Helge a river towards Ahus, home of Absolut Vodka. It is also part of the Eel Coast, described by UNESCO as a Swedish intangible cultural heritage. Apparently the fishing huts, poles and nets used still remain, but we aren’ sure how much eel fishing is actually done anymore. We moored on the quay right outside the Absolut factory and next to a road, not the most scenic mooring we’ve had. First appearances can be deceptive though as the road wasn’t busy and further down the quay, in the guest harbour proper, was a hive of activity. There were restaurants, shops and of course ice cream parlours along the promenade. In the other direction the prom continued on to a lovely iron bridge which took us over to the Aspet national reserve with paths through the forest down to a beautiful sandy beach. With no signs banning dogs on the beach, we walked along the shore for a while before heading back up one of the other lanes in the forest. They couldn’t understand why I didn’t rush into the water, or at least run along the shore, but I didn’t. I think I was making a protest because they hadn’t brought a ball! Back over the bridge we wandered into the old town and main square with its church and museum… and more ice cream sellers!

June 15th 2025 – Ahus to Simrishamn

Another beautiful morning, so Alison went for a run. Over the bridge, down to the beach and back along the forest trails. I could have gone with her. I should have gone with her, especially when she tripped over a tree stump and fell, luckily with no more damage then a grazed elbow.

Then we were off. Not too much wind and the sun was shining so it should have been a good trip, but it wasn’t. Strange sea, they said oily, I said twisty and rocky. I wasn’t too happy and was very relieved when we arrived at the guest harbour in Simrishamn. After taking on some fuel we moored up on the long pontoon and headed into town for a look round. Beautiful church, some very Danish looking streets – with hollyhocks – that Danish village staple. There was also a rose garden, actually a rose square, but again we were a bit too early for some of the blooms.

June 16th 2025 – Simrishamn

Unfortunately the predictions were correct and there was a change of weather today. It blew a gale, a force 5 to 6 at sea and not one for us. Not one for anyone else in our little group on E pontoon either, as nobody shifted. In some ways it was fortunate, although it will cause a problem with getting to Dragor on time – and going by Annapanna to Bornholm is definitely off the agenda. The fortunate bit is because Alison’s bike had yet another problem, this time it was the back tyre and that meant the tyre as well as the inner tube, and in town was the loveliest bike shop. It was called Osterlens Cykel and deserves a mention as they were so friendly, accommodating and efficient. A couple of hours after delivery (hard work with a completely flat tyre) and a coffee at the great little cafe on the square, the bike was ready. New inner tube, new tyre and new bell. They even put more lube on the chain.

Then it was my turn. With a ball this time we walked along the promenade to the beautiful sandy beach, which unfortunately said no dogs! It is such a joke when the place is full of grey geese leaving their deposits everywhere! Anyway we ignored the sign as there was no one around and went down to the sea for a bit of a play. I wasn’t allowed to swim though as there was a warning about undercurrents and it was very windy. Then we carried on to the outdoor swimming pool, a 25 metre competition pool with starting blocks. It looked seriously impressive but it’s not for me, even if I was allowed in. I really can’t see the point in just swimming up and down lanes without a purpose I.e. fetching a ball, sooo boring! After that we walked back along the footpaths next to the little stream, where, you will be glad to know, I had plenty of opportunities to chase my ball. The path took us to a small commune (residents words, not mine). It was a bit like an up market allotment. Lots of cute little sheds or huts in well tended garden areas surrounded by gavel paths.

June 17th 2025 – Simrishamn to Ystad

Still windy and the forecast still not great, especially on Wednesday and Thursday, so we risked it today, along with most of pontoon E and set off for Ystad. What a journey. Not one I particularly want to remember although I recovered much quicker than poor old Mags. She was dazed, literally, after spending more than 4 hours clutching the table with her eyes shut. She is so glad we are returning to the Netherlands later in the year! But we made it to Ystad, made famous as the home of Wallander, the Swedish detective hero of several books and a TV series starring, for some reason or another, Kenneth Branagh, who happens to be British.

There is much more to Ystad than Wallander though and most importantly for me was the beach, just on the other side of the pier. A one to two minute walk and I’m there and with no signs saying no dogs and no people, it was all mine. The only problem was the seaweed, masses of it. I had to wait though, as firstly we had to explore the town. I just wasn’t in the mood for sightseeing, not after that journey, but I wasn’t given a choice. We headed over the road and straight into the pedestrianized streets of the old town, real Wallander territory. Medieval, half timbered houses, a lovely main square, lots of Danish looking streets with hollyhocks, the most extensive and best preserved half timbered courtyard in Sweden, a church, a monastery and some beautifully tended flower beds and gardens. It’s all quite compact too, so I just about coped – and it was all worth when I eventually got my turn on the beach.

June 18th 2025 – Ystad – Bornholm – Ystad

Although we abandoned the plan to sail to Bornholm on Annapanna, Alison did not want to give up on it altogether. So, on yet another windy day, she and Mags set off along the quay to catch the early morning fast ferry to Ronne, the main town on Bornholm, leaving Brian and me behind to do our own thing. Our own thing was me being left behind whilst Brian went Wallander sightseeing (mercifully, as I’d done all that yesterday). I had a very chilled day, thank you very much, and I needed it after the traumatic sail getting here. Not so for Mags, although it was her choice to go…….The fast ferry to Bornholm takes 1 hour 20 minutes and compared to the exorbitantly expensive ferry to Gotland, was very cheap. As Bornholm is Danish and so the ferry prices were in Danish, rather than Swedish Krona, that was a big surprise. They arrrived in Ronne armed with 2 day passes for the bus network and a plan to travel round the island stopping at key sights along the way. The main tourist sights are the 4 round churches strategically placed around the island, the most important one being at Osterlars. The others are Nyker, Nylas and Olsker. I say strategic here as it is thought these churches were built as protective sanctuaries, as Bornholm’s position in the Baltic made it vulnerable to attack. Various features such as the narrow hidden staircases up to the higher levels within the churches seem to confirm this theory.

Returning to their plan. Armed with passes and a bus timetable they set off to Nylas and the first round church. Very pretty, very unusual and beautifully restored. Then there was a problem. For some reason BAT, the island bus company stops for an hour at lunchtime and as the buses are every hour, that meant a 2 hour break before they could move on to their second destination. So what to do? Walk, that’s what! Poor Mags, thank goodness she has been keeping up with her walks down Elker Lane. It was more than 7 kilometres to Aakirkeby and although the first 4 or so were on lovely cycle paths through the countryside, the last bit was on the main road.. They got there though, in time to look round the most important church on the island (but not round this time) before catching the bus to Svaneke.
The church in Svaneke has a swan on top and is normal shaped but they were here for the town. Much photographed and very photogenic, the town was buzzing. There was a pretty harbour, where they had lunch, a glass factory where you could watch the blowing and lots of interesting shops. Not my scene, apart from the lunch!
Next up was the most important round church and the one not to miss. Osterlars is Bornholms oldest (1150) and largest round church and is definitely more touristy than the others but I’m told it’s very impressive though. There was a cafe next door too so they had somewhere to wait before catching the next bus.
Round church number 3 was at Olsker, but the bus route took them along the north east coast and through the lovely villages of Allinge and Sandvig before dropping them on the road to the church.
Erected in the mid 12th century on a hill overlooking the town, Olsker church is the smallest, but best known of the churches. That is according to the guide book, which is odd as I believe they were the only people there!
Then, they were running out of time as the only way to get to the final church, at Nyker, was via Ronne and the buses there seemed to have stop running. I think they’d had enough by then anyway and just enjoyed the last bit of the bus trip down the west coast and through the forest north of Ronne. Then after a look round Ronne old town it was back on the ferry and home to Annapanna. They had travelled about 100 kilometres round the island, walked 30,726 steps, seen 3 out of 4 round churches and visited or driven through 4 of the main towns. They were exhausted, Mags said she wasn’t getting up in the morning, but they were both happy that they’d done it.

June 19th 2025 – Ystad

This was recovery day for Mags after all that walking yesterday on Bornholm and that was fine by me too, so we just pottered around in the windy sunshine whilst Alison travelled back to Karlshamn to pick up the car. This time it involved cycling so she had to go on her own.

June 20th 2025 – Ystad – Dragor

Time to leave. Less wind today and we have an assignation in Dragor so it was an early start, even for me! So by 07.20 we were off our mooring and on our way. I wouldn’t say it was millpond calm but it was ok. Well, anything would have been ok for Mags and me after the other day!

With perfect timing we arrived at the bridge over the Falsterbokanalen at 12 noon. According to the website and the information on the bridge it should open every 2 hours, at 10am, 12 noon and 2pm. It didn’t. We waited. We tried to contact the bridge man, as did other yachts waiting on the other side. No reply. Rang the harbourmaster from the Marina on the other side of the bridge. No reply. The bridge is 3.9 metres high, exactly the same height as Annapanna with the mast down, so it was too risky to try and get underneath. Oh for Jeremy’s canvas lowering system. We took the canvas down and sailed underneath , then moored up at the harbour on the other side for a comfort break (for me) and to put the canvas back up (them). Except they couldn’t. The canvas hasn’t been off for some time and seasoned with salt water over the last 3 years, it was as tough as old boots. So with the Bimini still down and getting in the way of my sleeping area we carried on to Dragor. We arrived at 15.30 and with the help of the harbourmaster got a mooring in the old harbour. An 8 hour day, but when we aren’t rocking all over the place it’s was ok and we did have that short little break after the bridge. Incidentally, as we were putting up the canvas guess what should happen? The bridge opened …. at 13.00! Then the harbourmaster rang back to confirm the new bridge opening times which the authorities hadn’t bothered to update either on their website or on the notice on the side of the bridge! If you are planning to travel this way please note that bridge now opens at 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 6pm. Probably 9am too but I’m not sure about that.

We needed to get to Dragor as today was technically changeover day. Mags should have been flying out and Jas and Chris flying in. Technically. But because everything was so uncertain we couldn’t sort out Mags flight until tomorrow even though Jas and Chris were still flying in! Anyway it was all sorted. They booked an apartment at the Dragor Hotel and Mags booked a flight home in the morning…. They had a last night dinner with Mags at the Dragor Hotel and were joined by Jas and Chris for drinks afterwards.

June 21st 2025 – Dragor

Goodbye Mags I am really going to miss you. Who is going to get my breakfast ready when I’m on my morning constitutional walk? No one that’s who. So disappointing. I will have to find someone else to cuddle on a rough journey though, but don’t think I’ve forgotten you. I haven’t. See you in July.

Alison and Mags went off to the airport bright and early and whilst they were away Jas and Chris turned up. Lots of washing, bed changing and unpacking later, Chris, Alison and l set off to walk to Cafe Sylten via the beach whilst Brian and Jas cycled there on a different route. Why Cafe Sylten, I hear you ask, so I’ll explain. When we were here a couple of years ago the weekend brunch there had been recommended by a Danish couple, but this was the first time we had been in Dragor at a weekend, so it was not to be missed. I was very happy. A good walk, a play in the sea and then food. What more could I want.

Then it was car move time again…. This time Jas and Chris decided they would like a little trip into Sweden, so off they all went on the bus and train back to Ystad. A quick look round the town and a drive back over The Bridge to Denmark before heading off again in the car for a megashop. Not one item of it for me!

June 22nd 2025 – Dragor – Rodvig

Yet another early start, as we planned to miss the high winds that were due in the afternoon – so definite yes from me. From Chris as well I suspect, as she hasn’t done any motor boating or sailing before so has no idea about her sea legs. We arrived in the harbour at around midday and had the choice of the entire alongside pontoon. Totally different to last time we were here when the pontoon was full and we had to moor in the old harbour. The harbour looked different though and it was clear that a lot of work had gone on over the last two years. New pontoons, new mooring poles, new sea wall and new red huts being built in the old harbour. Alison asked a local why and the answer was the great storm of October 2023. The sea wall couldn’t withstand the waves, all the little huts were washed away and 19 boats were destroyed.

If you are a regular reader of my blog you will know that the cliffs in this area are a famous UNESCO World Heritage Site called Stevns Klint. The layers clearly seen in the cliffs are considered evidence to back up the hypothesis that an asteroid, which landed in Mexico 66 millions years ago, destroyed 75% of plant and animal life on earth and brought about the end of the dinasour age. Jas and Chris had not been here before so they were encouraged to go to the Stevns Klint museum a few kilometres along the wonderful cliff path. As it is now technically high season there was a free bus which ran along the coast up to the other harbour in the area at Bogeskov, stopping at all the tourist sites along the way. So rather than my promised cliff top walk, they caught the bus, up to Bogeskov Havn and then back to their chosen drop off places. Alison at the lighthouse, Stevn’s Fycenter and Jas and Chris to the Stevn’s Klint experience. I stayed on the boat with Brian, seriously unimpressed. Jas and Chris were impressed though, as we knew they would be and Alison did eventually get to her little church on the cliffs at Hojerup.

June 23rd 2025 – Rodvig to Vordingborg

Early start again, this is becoming the norm at the moment! We set off planning to go to Stege, then it changed to Kalvehave and then it changed again to Vordingborg. Our early start let us make the most of the calm weather before the high winds returned in the afternoon, grounding us for the next couple of days and threatening to ruin the town’s Midsummer Eve celebrations. It will play havoc with Chris’s flight schedule as she is due to fly back from Hamburg on Friday!

We have been to Vordingborg before and my review was a bit mixed. An OK town with a castle ruin and museum and a lovely circular walk along the coast, past a Slott and then back along a cycle path. Jas and Chris had not been here before, so once we were moored up on the quay (perfect mooring, especially in the high winds) we set off to the castle ruins and on into the town.

Today is Midsummer Eve, although you wouldn’t believe it from the weather, which turned windy and wet by the afternoon. Midsummer is celebrated in Denmark by bonfires and sing songs and we wanted to seek out where Vordingborg’s might be and were delighted spy the bonfire in the middle of a lake below the castle grounds. Further enquiries revealed a bar, a stage for the sing song and a lighting time of 8 – 8.30pm. Perfect, apart from the weather! Then we headed into town dodging the rain and wind. As remembered, it’s just ok.

After dinner, macaroni cheese cooked by Jas, we headed back to the bonfire, hoping it remained dry enough to light it. It did but we think every one was glad it was on a platform in the middle of the lake as the wind remained high.

June 24th 2025 – Vordingborg

We are here for 3 nights and the wind continues to blow and with wave heights of 2 metres the sea is not for us. Definitely not for me! But Jas has itchy feet, so today he and Chris set off by train to Roskilde and the Viking ship museum there. Brilliant they said, go if you can, so we might when we go back to Dragor for the car. Brian, Alison and I stayed put with a plan to cycle along the coast after yet more shopping and a further explore around the town. This included the church, which is definitely worth a visit. Sorry no pictures though as it was prepared for a funeral, beautiful flowers all the way down the aisle up to where the coffin lay in state. The altar looked very elaborate.

I did eventually get my walk. One of my favourites along the coastal path and back on the cycle path. Perfect, as I could be off lead all the way.

June 25th 2025 – Vordingborg

Day 3 and still no movement but at least it was sunny today. Although expected, it is still playing havoc with Chris’s flight home as we can’t make Kiel by Friday. Itchy feet Jas wanted to be off again and this time Alison – and her bike – went with them. Shorter train journey this time north to Naestved, South Zealand’s largest town. They all wandered around the town, checked out the two churches and other notable buildings before heading, separately, to Gavno Slot, a little way out of town. The guide book says that the slot is considered one of the finest Rococo buildings in Denmark and its garden one of the most beautiful. They reserve judgement on that, although perhaps Spring is a better time to go, when the tulips are out. Now there are just beds of dead ones! It does have a large collection of paintings, mainly portraits, displayed in the house and a selection of dolls (just a few from the collection of 3000) displayed in the summerhouse in the grounds. They said that it was a very pleasant detour but perhaps did not live up to the hype.

Alison then cycled off, along the Dybso fjord to Svino then south to Skaverup on cycle route 8, before returning to Vesterborg, a bit hot and sweaty! Then I got a play and a walk before they left me again to go to Cafe Oscar for dinner.

June 26th 2025 – Vordingborg to Nakskov

A day with little wind, so we were off. Early start in the sunshine for an 8 hour trip to Nakskov as we have to make the most of the odd good days. The advantage of the early start though is that we have time to stop for coffee at one of our all time favourite islands, Vejro. It is 2 years since we were here and they now have some yurts near the tennis court (that has not been done up) and a chill out beach area next to the harbour. The water was perfect, the swimming was perfect, the weather was perfect. Such a shame we can’t stay but this weather is not going to remain perfect and if we get marooned here Chris will never get home. Personally, getting marooned here is my idea of paradise, but who ever listens to me!

Then we were off again and sure enough the sky clouded over, the wind got up and it started to rain. We didn’t quite make it to our mooring just outside the old town (and opposite a factory) in time, but happily we missed the much heavier rain a bit later. We didn’t explore much today, even Jas’s proposed trip to the happening place in town was postponed until tomorrow and I was happy with that as my swimming exertions of earlier had worn me out anyway.

June 27th 2025 – Nakskov

The brief weather respite yesterday was a one off and as expected the wind continued to blow and will do for the next 3 days. So we are here until Monday and Chris will have to make the journey to Hamburg by train. She has changed her ticket until Sunday, so this is the end of her boating experience. Such a shame things haven’t gone to plan but I’m glad she has at least seen my favourite island, even if it was only briefly.

Although it was windy, the day was actually warm and sunny, so definitely exploring time. Near the boat is a nature reserve with a walk around the water, so after breakfast off Alison and I went to explore. I didn’t really want to explore, I’d rather just play ball in the field, but explore we had to do….
Then it was sightseeing time. A very short walk into the town centre and then off to the Maritime museum. I could go in too but sadly none of us were impressed. It has moved from it’s beautiful original building into a nondescript ex library and without any water frontage and not much internal space, there isn’t really much to it. The volunteers at the museum didn’t speak any English and as they (not me) don’t speak any Danish, communication was difficult. So we are not sure whether this is a temporary home during the major renovation project of the original building, or now it’s permanent home.
The next museum was a completely different experience. Although none of the exhibits or film were in English, with the help of the very enthusiastic volunteer they throughly enjoyed their visit to the Sugar Museum. There are only two sugar factories left in Denmark, here and Nykobing and all the sugar beet processed in these factories is grown on the island of Lolland. They think that this supplies all the sugar requirements for Denmark. After a short sojourn back on the boat they went their separate ways, Brian and Alison to the supermarket and Jas and Chris for a wander. Then they texted to say there was music in the main square so off Alison went with me in tow. Why you ask, when I hate loud noises, music or otherwise, was I dragged along. Anyway, they enjoyed it, the beer and the music, whilst I just pretended I was somewhere else and considered how I was going to contact the RSPCA in Denmark.

June 28th 2025 – Nakskov

First thing this morning Alison set off on stage one of the car move. After much debate she has decided that over 2 days she would move the car to Lubeck, taking Chris to the station there whilst she was at it. Chris would then carry on to Hamburg and catch her flight home, whilst Alison would return to Nakskov for the next part of our journey on Annapanna. Easy transfer apparently. Train to Nyköbing, same platform change to Copenhagen then bus to Dragor. She was back by early afternoon and then we all set off by car to Peter Hansen’s Have, or garden, as recommended by the lovely lady in the tourist office. After their disappointment with the last garden they weren’t to optimistic about this one, but happily it proved otherwise. The garden has one of Northern Europe’s largest privately owned plant collections, 1000’s of species spread out over 5 1/2 hectares of woodland, ponds and lawn. This time it was all beautifully looked after and the colours of the roses and other plants vibrant.
Then we moved on to Lango, a small fishing village on the west coast of the Nakskov Fjord. Another recommendation from the tourist office was the fish restaurant there, Lango Fish and Grill Bar, so we booked a table for Chris’s last night. The verdict – very casual, good food and lovely staff. Perhaps Jas might have preferred somewhere more formal as a final night meal, but we all enjoyed it anyway – especially me, as I was allowed to go AND had my picture taken for their doggy rogue gallery.

June 29th 2025 – Nakskov

Stage 2. Drive to Rodby, ferry to Puttgarden, drive to Lubeck. All went to plan and Alison and Chris said their goodbyes in Lubeck as Chris set off by train to Hamburg. Alison set off to find somewhere to leave the car using the EasyPark app to find nearby car parks. The best one had 3 day limit and looked like it was closing for renovation on the 1st July, so not worth the risk. A sortie on foot found another one and after a quick call to Nora and a request to translate the telephone message on the help line, she left the car there, probably until Thursday. Return journey by Flixbus to Puttgarden, ferry to Rodby and then stop! She just missed the last bus of the afternoon and had a 2 and a half hour wait until the next one. Tried UBER but no drivers. In the end Jas and Brian spoke to a taxi firm in Nakskov who went and picked her up. Not a cheap end to the day but at least she got back before 10pm.

June 30th 2025 – Nakskov to Kiel

By 11 am the wind started to die down and so eventually we could leave our comfortable mooring in Nakskov and start our long crossing to Kiel. Goodbye Denmark, hello Germany. Personally I will miss both Denmark and Sweden, even though I won’t miss some of those rough sea journeys! The last crossing was through the Nakskov Fjord into Langelandsbaelt, round the southern tip of Langland and the cliffs of Dovns Klint, then south to Kiel Holtenau and the start of the famous canal. It was all calm and uneventful, other than the interest we aroused in the coastguard. Lots of questions; where have we come from, where are we going, whose is on board and what nationality. Then why is your boat’s home port in the Netherlands if you are British. Brian explained why. So if your boat is Netherlands VAT paid and Netherlands based why are you flying the British Ensign! Because it’s British registered! They weren’t happy and went away to check all this was allowed! They didn’t come back to us though, so we assume someone else told them that it was perfectly OK! Or let’s hope so, although I don’t mind swapping to the Netherlands flag, being Dutch and all that.

We arrived at the long pontoon at Kiel Holtenau and tried to moor up but it was just at the wrong height for us. There was a lot of wash and whatever we did with the fenders they couldn’t stop the pontoon catching the rope. A night of this would damage the rope and probably the hull, so we moved, onto the quay with the tall ships. There was a space and with no sign saying we couldn’t moor there and no harbour master to ask, we just hoped for the best. The tall ship owners didn’t seem to mind and no ship came in and asked us to move.
The area was quite a pleasant surprise. Backed by a converted warehouse, the quay was definitely a tourist hotspot. There were restaurants, cafes, bars and ice cream parlours and around the old lighthouse some very competitive boules going on. Lots of action, lots of people, just how I like it!

July 1st 2025 – Kiel – Rensburg

With surprisingly little delay we were called into the lock along with a paddle steamer taking tourists to Rensburg and back along the famous canal. In the short space of half an hour or so we had left the sea water behind and emerged into the fresh (ish) water of the Kiel Canal. It will take us 2 days to travel the canal and today was a nice short day with a stop at Rensburg. It was hot, very hot. The first hot day we’ve had and of course no wind, just when we need it!
Before I tell you about Rensburg I need to educate you about the Kiel Canal, so here it is. It’s German name is the Nord-Ostsee-kanal, or North Sea – Baltic Sea Canal, for obvious reasons and it runs from Kiel in the Baltic to Brunsbuttel, which lies at the mouth of the Elbe River, near to the North Sea. It was constructed from 1887 to 1895 and then widened from 1907 to 1914. It is 98 Kms long and is an important commercial waterway as avoiding going around the Jutland peninsula saves these large ships approximately 460 kms. An average of 32,000 ships use the canal annually and it is capable of taking freight up to 235.50 m long, 32.30 m wide and a draught of 7 metres, for large ships and 9.5 m for slightly small ones. In other words, it is quite some feat, but the most important thing for me is that with a speed limit of 12 kph, it is flat and calm with virtually no overtaking. There is none of the aggression we see with the fast big ships on the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal.

Three and a half hours after the exiting the lock we arrived at the Rensburg marina. Situated at the end of a branch off the main canal it was a perfect find. It had fuel, it had a chandlery, it had a restaurant AND it had a small sandy area (not sure it qualifies as a beach) where I could swim. Another bonus was that in a country full if metal pontoons this one had rubber!
After we had settled in and filled up with fuel, Alison and Jas went off to explore the old town, a short walk through a park away, then wandered back along the promenade at the end of the branch, stopping for a much needed beer in the heat. They got back in time for me to have another swim and play, but then left me to go for dinner at the Riverside Restaurant. I could have gone too but by then all I wanted to do was sleep.

July 2nd 2025 – Rendsburg – Wedel

A very hot and a very long day! They told me it would be about 6 hours and we would stop at a marina at the end of the canal. Well we did stop for all of 15 minutes, for me to stretch my legs and them to get an ice cream, but then we moved on, through the lock and out into the Elbe river. It was all to do with the tide apparently and meant we could travel faster and so get to Hamburg earlier. I can’t say I was too impressed but as it was very, very hot at least we got a bit of a breeze whilst we were on the go. Eventually, 10 and a half hours after setting off, we arrived at Hamburger Marina in Wedel and moored up on a hammerhead, about as far away from the land as you could imagine. This is a big marina! I managed to get a walk in though, just before the weather changed and it started bucketing it down!
Before I end today’s blog I need to take you back to Rendsburg. After we left the harbour and returned to the canal we went under what is called the High Bridge. This railway bridge is unusual in that it also contains a transporter bridge, which carries a gondola across the canal below the railway line. Sadly, we didn’t see it working and aren’t even sure if it still is functional, but it was definitely there.

July 3rd 2025 – Wedel to Hamburg

Off at 9am, this time on a fairly flat tide, but we still made good time to Hamburg City Marina and were moored up by 11 ish. When we were last in Hamburg we came by car and stayed out at the large Alster Lake, north of the city. This time we are slap bang in the middle, within walking distance of many of the main sites and overlooking the architecturally important Elbphilharmonie and its panes of curved glass. This isn’t ideal for me of course but Alison had spied a park nearby, so paws crossed.

Once we were moored up and settled in our pretty perfect place, we all went off for coffee and Jas and Brian went up the longest escalator in the world (probably) to the viewing floor in the Elbphilharmonie. Then we went our separate ways, Brian and me back to the boat, Jas and Alison to Miniatur Wunderland. Brian went when we were here 3 years ago, so now it was Alison’s turn. She loved it and Jas thought it was pretty good too. They then did the virtual reality thing – good fun but very weird!

In the evening I was left home alone whilst they headed off to St Pauli and the famous Reeperbahn area for street food. Apparently it was ok although they choice was limited. Then they headed off to explore the area, which is infamous as the red light district of Hamburg. It is also the area that “discovered” the Beatles, or at least appreciated them first. There is a Beatles Square with their statues and the names of many of their songs set into the pavement

July 4th 2025 – Hamburg

Day 2 in Hamburg and we split up. Alison and I went walking, along the promenade to St Pauli, up the hill and back along the Reeperbahn, then into the city park and a wander along its waterways before having coffee overlooking the little Alster Lake. Jas and Brian went to the Maritime museum which they said was very impressive. It must have been as we got back to the boat before them!

It was Jas’s last night so they had a busy evening. Firstly, it was back to the Elbphilharmonie for dinner in the restaurant on the 7th floor, evening views on the 8th and then down the longest elevator in the world – probably! Lovely meal and friendly waiter, I’m told. Then they went off on a harbour cruise, well it was a cruise round the harbour, just not the one Jas booked! It ended up being a rather expensive ferry ride, but they don’t really know where it went wrong! I’m glad I wasn’t invited, I’ve already done a harbour cruise anyway!

July 5th 2025 – Hamburg

It all happened today, just not for me! Before 9am both Alison and Jas left us, Alison back to Lubeck and then onto Papenburg with the car and Jas to the airport for his flight home. Brian and I stayed in Hamburg, walked a bit, shopped a bit, listened to the music and people watched. Lots of people all dressed up in 60’s flower power clothes having a ball. We later found out that today was Schlagermove, the Festival of Love, where all things Schlager are celebrated. It isn’t actually anything to do with the 60’s/70’s as Schlager is a music genre, described as catchy, sentimental, easy to sing along tunes. It says typically with German lyrics, but I heard an awful lot of English being sung! What we all missed, because we didn’t know until too late, was the parade of decorated trucks that people dance around as they drive round the city. When Alison told someone she had been away all day and missed it they said, “well now you know, so next year!” In the evening, the celebrating continues at the Aftermove parties, often in their own homes but there was one in the Street Food place in St Pauli. Now we know why they were putting up more stalls and stages on our walk yesterday!

July 6th 2025 – Hamburg – Uelzen

Time to go but not before an early morning trip to the Sunday market at the Fish Hall in St Pauli on the banks of the Elbe. After missing Schlagermove she wasn’t about to miss this institution, so before 7am, leaving Brian and me in bed, off she ran, along the banks of the river to the beautiful building that is the Fischauktionshalle, or Fish Auction Hall. The market is an institution and runs every Sunday from 5am – 9.30am. It is not a fish market, although there are plenty of fish stalls, it is an everything market – clothes, food, souvenirs, accessories etc etc. anything you can think of. There are hawkers selling their wares and people galore, thousands of them at times. But what Alison liked most was inside the hall. A stunning building full of bars and drink stalls with a live band belting out real oldie music. She suspects that’s the norm, not just because it’s the day after Schlagermove, although a few people there were still in their costumes as they hadn’t actually made it home to bed.

Then we were off, up the Elbe before turning off onto the Elbe-Seitenkanal, a relatively new canal completed in 1976 to provide a link between Hamburg and the Mittellandkanal. It is 115 Kms of nothingness, I certainly haven’t missed these canals, although I have to concede, the towpaths at the side are good for my walks. The most, or only, interesting thing about our journey today was the boat lift, which along with the lock we will do tomorrow, will lift us 61 metres before meeting the Mittellandkanal near Wolfsburg. Now 61 metres is a lot and the boat lift raised us 38 metres in one very straightforward, but very efficient movement.

Our destination for tonight was a bit less than half way along the canal. Yacht haven Uelzen had good alongside mooring just through the entrance, plenty of places to walk and a decent restaurant. All we needed. We all went out for dinner as of course dogs are allowed inside – Germany is such a dog friendly nation – but I didn’t get so much as a taste of their Schnitzel.

July 7th 2025 – Uelzen – YH Heidanger, Stichkanal Salzgitter

Another long day but as it was chucking it down from midday onwards there wasn’t a lot of point in stopping early anyway. I did get a comfort break though, so don’t bother with the RSPCA just yet. We eventually arrived at Yacht Haven Heidanger at about 6pm and as it was still raining I wasn’t too keen on walking far and nor, I think, was Alison. Not many steps today for either of us.

We have been to this yacht haven before, in 2022 and were very impressed. The guest pontoon was smart, bedecked with lovely flowers and very convenient for the restaurant and services, but, it has the horrible metal surface and since the accident with my nail last year (resulting in major surgery), I am very wary of it. As a result I try to get off it as fast as possible, which I know is the last thing I should do, but I can’t help it.
One of the reasons for our return visit was because the harbour has a very smart restaurant and the plan was to eat at it tonight, but that plan was scuppered as unfortunately it is shut on Monday’s.

July 8th 2025 – YH Heidanger – Idensen

Another long day, but this time not helped by a long delay at Schleusen Andersen. Every lock we have been through on this canal has only had one of the two locks working and today was no exception. With quite a lot of commercial traffic about everyone had to wait their turn. This of course gives me a chance to get off the boat and stretch my legs, so I’ll never complain about delays anywhere. I got another opportunity for a walk a bit later when we moored up at the side of the canal so Alison could cycle off to the nearby supermarket – a necessity as our mooring tonight at Yachthafen Idensen was in the middle of nowhere!

We moored on a finger. It’s ages since we last moored on a finger and I had to remind myself about the art of jumping off without falling in the water. I managed though, as I know you would expect and once on dry land we set off down the lovely grassy area full of Greylag geese and their deposits to the restaurant to pay our dues. Of course I was allowed in, this is Germany where dogs can go anywhere, and we sat at a very cosy high bench at the bar. Much better than bar stools and perfect for me to lie down out of the way.
This place may be a little remote and in need of a bit of TLC but for me it is not at all bad.

July 9th 2025 – Idensen to Bad Essen

A relatively short day today, only 6 hours, so I had time for another play before we left the yacht haven. These last few days are going to be long, very long, so we made the most of today by starting a little later and finishing a bit early! This gave us a good mooring in Marina Bad Essen, a marina we didn’t even know existed until we arrived there! The problem with using ancient books is that sometimes things change (not often, but sometimes) and this was an example, as this new marina was actually built 10 years ago! Even Captains Mate confused us by talking about a very narrow entrance, which was correct about Yachthafen MYC Bad Essen, but not the marina. Anyway, fortunately the chart plotter showed a marina on the screen a little further on than the yachthafen so went to explore and are so glad we did. Marina Bad Essen is right on the edge of this very pretty spa town. There was an Aldi and excellent bakers just over the railway line (which doesn’t seem in use any more) and then it was a shortish walk onto the Main Street and the beautiful black and white timbered buildings of the old town. Add a great ice cream parlour, a beach bar and a big grassy area next to the marina and it was pretty much perfect. The only downside is the water in the marina which is marked as non drinkable. We had read this but didn’t investigate as we didn’t need any, but bear it in mind if you visit.

July 10th 2025 – Bad Essen – Hotel Am Wasserfall

Well, we have had long days but this beat them all! Brian wants to get the Monday night ferry home and PC Navigo said we would not make Papenberg by Sunday afternoon unless we put in some very long days! So the plan was to leave at 8am and finish by 7pm. With various stops for locks it wouldn’t be a constitution issue for me, just a one of total boredom. These hours meant – according to PC Navigo – they would make Hotel Am Wasserfall for dinner. If you are a regular reader of my blog you will know that Alison heard about this hotel from some fellow boaters back in 2022, but as our guide said they only had one guest mooring and we knew these people had booked it, we moored elsewhere. Then she got on her bike to check it out and discovered there were more guest moorings and we could have stayed there. As it was on the river on a lovely sidearm of the canal, she was very frustrated. So this year she wanted, in fact needed, to stay there and delays in the locks (caused by a broken down sport boat) were not going to deter her! In the end we just went with it, well what choice have I got? We eventually arrived at our booked mooring at just after 8.30pm. Quick walk for me, quick change for them, then into dinner. Alison was very happy, I was just very bored! You owe me Alison!

Actually, I’ve now discovered that Brian owes me too. When they got back from dinner he checked PC Navigo again to discover that he had inadvertently added a waypoint to the plan, so the nearer we got to Papenburg the longer it was going to take us! Suddenly there was no rush and suddenly there was no need for the long day, we could have split it into two shorter days. I am not amused!

July 11th 2025 – Hotel Am Wasserfall – Haren

With the pressure off we all had a lie in before planning our next destination of Haren. The Monday night ferry is back on but only if I could get to the vets today. Alison checked on google and found a vets a short walk away from the harbour and open until 7pm. Perfect. Yes of course they could see me – at 5pm. It became clear later that we wouldn’t make 5pm. No problem, 6pm was fine they said.
At just after 5pm we moored up in Wasserport Haren on the same pontoon we moored on in 2022 when we first arrived in Germany. I said then and I’ll say again, this is a lovely and friendly harbour. Right on the edge of town but near lots of parks, lakes and paths, it is ideal for me. The town is quite modern with few buildings of any interest apart from the massive St Martinus Church. Built in 1908, with a massive dome towering above the town, it does seem a little incongruous but it is certainly a landmark.
We arrived at the vets half an hour early and were dealt with entirely by the lovely vet nurses. I must be one of the only dogs in the world that actually get excited when I go to the vets. I know a lot of it is to do with treats and this time was no exception, even if the treat was actually my worming tablets! Talk about feeding pigs cherries! We were out within 10 minutes, dosed, stamped and signed. They were a little confused as to why my passport had a Dutch address when we live in the UK, but as with the police in Kiel, we assured them it was OK.

July 12th 2025 – Haren – Papenberg

The original plan wasn’t to go to Papenberg. I was promised a stay in a beautiful marina surrounded by wonderful walks and maybe even some swimming – and only a couple of locks and two to three hours away. It didn’t happen. Well it did and it didn’t. We arrived at Marinapark Emstal and even moored up, although the disappointment was obvious. The marina was shallow, virtually deserted and surrounded by small holiday cottages. It was definitely past its best. Annapanna was really too big for our mooring near the entrance but the alarming lack of depth meant we didn’t want to venture further in. I got off and had a little wander and there were paths around but these were cycle paths and on a sunny Saturday this meant a constant stream of bikes to avoid. We debated having a coffee in the cafe but it was packed with cyclists…. So we moved on, through two more locks, the second one being a sea lock and into the tidal Ems. Did we know it was tidal? No – and the stream of boats moving in the opposite direction, out of tidal waters, was a bit worrying. Fortunately a quick check of the local tides showed that we were actually at high tide, so would travel to Papenberg on a falling tide, which is a good thing I’m told. Then we checked the sea lock into Papenberg. Only available to pleasure craft at 14.30 on a Saturday – unless going through with a commercial ship. As it was already 14.30 when we checked this and we were at least two hours away, we would need a lot of luck to get through. Plan B was to stay the night on the waiting pontoon at the lock, something our travelling companion, a German Super van Craft, was planning to do anyway. Slightly reassured that we wouldn’t be left high and dry – literally – we continued on to the Papenberg lock and arrived just as a cruise ship was leaving. Could we enter please? The lights went green. Luck was on our side and we were soon through and out of tidal waters. A few kilometres further took us past the massive Meyer – Werft shipyard (builder of enormous cruise ships apparently), through a group of 3 lifting bridges and into Annapanna’s home for the next month, Hennings Yacht – Vertrieb, the main Linssen agent for Germany. Another long day!

I eventually got a walk, a wander round the big industrial park nearby. Not exactly rural, even though we thought we were a few kilometres out of town. But there was some green and it was fine and tomorrow we would explore further.

July 13th 2025 – Papenberg

The big advantage of getting here a day early was it gave them more time for cleaning, washing and packing up. The most boring part of each trip for me. But it did mean there was also time for a walk and Alison wanted to follow the little canal that continued on from our basin. I personally don’t think enough research had been done about this place as to our surprise, far from being a few kilometres out of town, we were actually right in the middle of it! The beautiful little canal runs right through the centre of the lovely town. Bedecked by flowers, there were shops, cafes and museum ships between the old bridges. There was also an old windmill, a park and a very important looking town hall. It was sunny, it was warm and it was buzzing. Alison was suddenly very happy here. So was I when we shared an ice cream from the nifty little vending machine by the windmill.

July 14th 2025 – Papenberg – Europort

Last day. Still lots of boring jobs so I escaped to the back of the car where I could supervise proceedings whilst looking out for any passing strangers to say hello to. As it was Monday and everyone was back at work there were people around and I didn’t get too bored. Then it was goodbye Papenberg and Annapanna and hello Pride of Rotterdam…. And the kennels. I’ve decided I don’t like the kennels now so I wasn’t a happy dog. Next time I hope I’m back in a dog friendly cabin.

This last entry finishes my journal for this trip. We are back in a month – and I know I am included this year as Roger is coming with us. Be sure to log back in and view the remainder of our trip home to Maasbracht in August. Until then, from Germany, auf Wiedersehen…… pet!