Prologue

We set off a bit later than last year as the trip has got to fit around; a wedding in the UK, a dog sitter for me whilst they fly home for a few days, enough time to explore the Gota Canal in Sweden and of course the 90 day on-going nightmare. What hasn’t held it up is my injury, a nasty slice just below what they call a fetlock on horse (and apparently sometimes on a dog too), so just above the pad on my near side back leg. I have clips in and a bandage to protect it and so for a couple of weeks swimming and ball playing is off the agenda. I can’t understand it. It doesn’t hurt at all and as salt water was used to clean it why can’t sea water do the same? The vet just laughed at that, which actually wasn’t very funny.

We have cousin Robert on board for the next few weeks as he has taken a sabbatical from work to sail the seas with us. He loves cleaning and polishing so we can be sure Annapanna will be gleaming – until mid June at least.

May 18th 2024 – Whalley to Hull

Usual drive on the M62, usual (by now) doggy cabin, birthday dinner for three (excluding me) in the bistro. Same old, same old but I still get really excited when I get on the ferry, even if the floor is like a skating rink.

May 19th 2024 – Europoort to Gut Altona Hotel

Unusually for us we went back to the same hotel in Germany where we stayed last September. We loved the hotel, the grounds, the walks and the surrounding area – and the food – so were very disappointed to find the restaurant closed. This meant a trip into town, which actually worked out quite well as there were Whit week celebrations going on with bands, parades and lots of beer stalls (of course, as we are in Germany).

May 20th 2024 – Gut Altona to Grasten

The original plan was to launch Annapanna today and spend the night on board. But it was a bank holiday and everything was shut, so instead we stayed in an Hotel just outside Grasten, a nearby town, ready for the launch the next day. The hotel, Benniksgaard, was on a golf course and not just any golf course but – apparently – the fourth prettiest course in Denmark. It was certainly beautiful with a footpath all the way down to the coast. …. And I walked that footpath, me who hates golf courses and golfers, without batting an eyelid. Not sure why it didn’t bother me, maybe I only hate English golf courses.

May 21st and 22nd 2024 – Soholm Marine

Before leaving Benniksgaard in the morning I took my new love of Danish golf courses one step further and whilst Alison was distracted, ran onto the practice green, picked up a golfers ball and dropped it at his feet! Luckily it was a practice green and luckily he was a very nice golfer, but I’m amazed and Alison was definitely amazed (and very apologetic). I can’t even walk down a road near a golf course at home without tensing up and trying to run away, so why am I so comfortable here? Dog psychologists please feel free to respond.

A polished Annapanna went into the water later in the day and after a few hiccups we moved on to our mooring. Boring stuff then, unpacking, shopping etc, etc. and I couldn’t even go for a swim whilst it was all going on.

The good news is that the bikes, which were on the floor in one of the flooded sheds, are both fine. So Alison’s is back on the bow of the boat and Brian’s back in the back of the car. Sorry Roger, but you are stuck with it again during your drive from Denmark to Sweden!

May 23rd 2024 – Soholm Marine to Dyvig Bro

We left the boat yard in pouring rain planning to stop in Sønderborg for fuel then continue onto an old favourite, Dyvig Bro. Fortunately this wasn’t too long a trip as shortly after setting off we realized the stabilizers weren’t working. Now I am going nowhere without stabilizers – even on the short trip to Sønderborg we were rocked by a fleet of fast moving naval ships – so sorting them out was essential, even if it meant returning to base. Fortunately Brian realized the problem was with the power supply, so with video support from the manufacturer and a lot of crawling around in the engine, the rogue switch was located and activated. Then bingo, we had lift off, or out, which is how they work!

We arrived in Dyvig Bro in time for my tea, which is also essential. The mooring was as lovely as ever, although it’s not the same when I can’t swim or even chase balls. We did have a nice evening walk round “the block” as I’m told the view of the harbor from the hill on the opposite side is beautiful. Personally, it didn’t bother me when the view was obscured by a setting sun as all I wanted was a walk, but Alison was disappointed.

May 24th 2024 – Dyvig Bro to Middelfart

Still retracing our steps for the time being, so tonight we are back at Nyhavn 2 in Middelfart. We are even back in our 2023 mooring just inside the harbour wall overlooking the two bridges of the Little Belt. The town is very different though, as last year it was in the middle of hosting a national climate change event so everywhere was buzzing, but this year the atmosphere is much more quiet and chilled.

Unfortunately I haven’t made it to the woods and deer park this time as my mission for the afternoon was a visit to the vets. This required a long walk in the sunshine to the very smart veterinary hospital where, in the flash of an eye, my staples were removed and I was given a clean bill of health. Perfect. When asked about swimming the lovely vet said, of course, she has to swim in this weather! Now for the beach.

May 25th 2024 – Middelfart to Fredericia

As happens in this business plans change and today was one of those days. I was very happy with the change though as it meant only an hour being thrown about by waves on the nose (so the stabilisers can’t help) rather than 3-4 hours of pergatory. So, instead of heading to Endelave as originally planned we decided to stop in Fredericia instead. Our only decision then was, which marina; the town quay or the Lystbadehavn. We chose the Lystbadehavn as it had a suitable mooring and it was out of the wind, but it was a few kilometres out of town. That didn’t bother me as right next door was my promised beach and shortly after mooring I got my long awaited swim and play with my ball. I would have been 100% happy if it wasn’t for the thin finger I had to walk to get back on board.

After my walk and play Alison and Robert cycled off into town to inspect the city harbour and have a look around. The verdict – a very nice town quay with more alongside morning than in Lystbadehavn. The quay is also right in the centre of town, so a short walk to bars, restaurants and shops. Give it a try if you’re heading this way. There was an event on in town called the Rose (as in wine) walk. For 250 krona you got 10 glasses of wine from stalls scattered around the town with the idea being you walked from one to the other seeing the sights of the town along the way…… Oh and you had to wear a pink baseball cap – so with 600 people doing the walk it was a sea of pink. There is a 4 kilometre coastal path from the town, suitable for walking and cycling, so after the town inspection they set off past beach bars, historical sites and lots and lots of pink caps! A good afternoon they said, although I think Robert’s bottom might think differently!

May 26th 2024 – Fredericia to Endelave

A day later than originally planned we set off for the island of Endelave. This was new territory for us as last year the harbour, on a sunny Saturday in September, was ram jammed full, so we had to change course and head for Juelsminde instead. This time it was much quieter, but even so the minimal alongside mooring available was already taken, so we had no choice but to moor bow to. This was the first time we’ve had to do it and I suspect you could tell! Much faffing around when all I wanted to do was get off. A lot of the faffing was due to the incompatibility of disembarking (good word from a dog isn’t it!) between me and Brian. I needed the bow as near to the jetty as possible, but Brian needed it further away so he could attach the ladder. This time I won but not sure what will happen next time…..

Endelave is a small island west of Samso in the Kattegat. With approximately 185 inhabitants and an area of 13.2kms it is small and rural. Boomerang shaped and an important and protected nature area for many domestic and international birds, there are walks and cycle routes around the island giving access to hides, lookouts and information points scattered along the way. It is most famous though for its population of rabbits – and they are everywhere! Alison went off exploring on her bike and the biggest hazard wasn’t the stony tracks but hundreds of rabbits running out from the undergrowth. Robert didn’t accompany her this time and it was just as well – stony tracks and Bromptons do not go together!

May 27th 2024 – Endelave to Marselisborg (Aahus)

We continued north up the east coast of Jutland to Marselisborg harbour, just south of Aahus. We called into this very smart harbour last year but couldn’t get a mooring, so then continued onto Aahus, which for the city was definitely the right choice. This time we wanted to explore the deer park, Royal summer palace and the Moesgaard Museum and this was the most convenient harbour. Getting a space was still touch and go as very few boats are out this early in the season and it doesn’t have too many visitor berths. We got one though and are ok here until 31st May, which even with the expected wind, should be fine.

Once moored and sorted we all set off to walk to the Marselisborg Palace, the summer residence of the Royal Family. The existing palace was built around 1900 after a nationwide collection, with the city of Aahus also donating 13 hectares of parkland. These were then converted into beautiful gardens laid out in English style. As the Royal Family were not in residence we could wander freely round the grounds and up to the house without any sign of security. You can’t imagine that happening in the UK.

We wandered back through lovely woodlands and onto the large field (my ball playing area) next to the marina. In the field, 6000 women were preparing to start the annual LadyWalk, a 7 or 12kilometre walk to raise money for women’s charities. Unfortunately you had to prebook so we couldn’t join them – shame, I quite liked the black tee shirt they were all wearing. Left home alone in the evening as they all went out to the Fish Restaurant, one of several in this very smart harbour. Very good was the verdict.

May 28th 2024 – Marselisborg

Museum day. So I was left alone for hours. I did think about reporting them but decided to have a long nap instead. I don’t rest well when we travel so needed to catch up on my beauty sleep. They went to the Moesgaard Museum, a very impressive modern building that appears to come out of the ground. The permanent exhibitions take you through the different ages from Stone Age to Viking age with lots of interactive elements to keep the interest up. They was also a separate Egyptian exhibition which they tell me is also a must.

Eventually they returned and then it was my turn. Robert took me out for a nice long walk whilst Alison set off on her bike to visit the Deer Park and the circular pier and ride along the beautiful cycle paths through the woods back in the direction of the museum. The original plan was for them all to cycle to the museum but the weather put paid to that, which was probably just as well, so they reacquainted themselves with Viggo instead. Viggo, in case you’re wondering is a green Uber like taxi service. It only uses electric cars and at the moment is only available in Copenhagen and Aahus, but they were very impressed.

May 29th 2024 – Marselisborg

Another day here as it was very windy, so I was very happy with that. Alison wanted to go shopping – she has a wedding outfit to get and Robert hadn’t seen the centre of the city, so off we all went (which I’m not sure was her plan)! Brian and I turned back after a while which left them free to grab a coffee at the street market, wander in and out of shops, go to the roof garden at the top of the Salling store and generally wander the city. Sounds like pergatory to me, so I’m glad we turned back. Robert got himself a present, they bought Brian one too, but no wedding outfit. I think it’s a lost cause actually!

May 30th 2024 – Marselisborg to Ebeltoft

Early start so we could catch the good weather, which is all fine by me. We arrived at Ebeltoft, a favourite harbour we visited last year, just before midday, so had a choice of moorings in the museum harbour. To moor in this harbour it is expected that you buy a ticket for the Fregatten Jylland museum, but as Robert hadn’t been, it wasn’t a problem. Then we were off to a favourite place, the dog friendly Aoife Coffee via the lovely green playing area between the two harbours.

After coffee we split up as Brian and Robert went round the museum ship and Alison and I headed into town. On the way back I had an accident and I’m still recovering now. I am currently not a happy dog! The way into town was via some steep, horrible metal steps – the same metal they use far too often in harbours. Now I’m an expert at walking on this metal and it doesn’t usually bother me, but somehow, on the way down I caught a nail. Fortunately the nail is ok, but I have a cut down the side of it. Ohh, the blood! It splattered everywhere, so it took a while to work out where the cut actually was. Until Alison noticed it, it hadn’t actually bothered me, but when she did I went into full “woe is me” mode. I’m still in it as I write this, but hopefully a new destination will help me forget.

May 31st 2024 – Ebeltoft to Bonnerup

Six hours of pergatory, so I kept my head down and pretended it wasn’t happening. They will tell you it wasn’t that bad, but I will tell you differently! There was an advantage though of the second early start in two days because it meant we arrived in plenty of time for a swim, play and long walk. Oops, I forgot my foot was hurting – for the entire walk – until Alison decided she better wash and spray it when we got back, just in case!

We decided to press on to Bonnerup rather than stopping in Grenaa as strong winds are on there way and we need to be settled in Aalborg before they arrive. I suspect Bonnerup isn’t as pretty as Grenaa and as a holiday village it is currently all but deserted. But, it has everything I need; alongside mooring, a beach without a blue flag and beautiful coastal walks. It also has a superb fish shop in the harbour and several cafe/restaurants, which gives a clue as to how busy this place will be in a few weeks time.

June 1st 2024 – Bonnerup to Oster Hurup

We decided to break the journey to Aalborg in Oster Hurup. There was little information in the CAptains Mate but there was a QR to scan in the harbour guide and that gave us the number of the lovely harbourmaster. He said he would find us an alongside mooring and to ring him when we arrived. We did and he did and it was perfect. We loved the harbour too. It is part of a holiday complex, but quite a small one with a laid back vibe. There were several restaurants and a fish shop in the harbour and a short walk away was the small town with more restaurants and the all important supermarket. There was even a beach next door and miles of coastal walks, although this time I didn’t want to go anywhere as my injured leg was hurting too much. They think it all looks fine but I can tell you that nearly pulling a nail off on horrible metal really does hurt. I think my walk yesterday may have made it worse so I wasn’t risking it. By amazing coincidence, Robert and Alison bumped into the vet from Middelfart who had removed my clips. They told her I now had another injury, but she didn’t volunteer to check me out…… well I suppose she was on holiday….

June 2nd 2024 – Oster Hurup – Aalborg

I’m still not a happy bunny. I really didn’t want to get out of bed this morning and had to coaxed out with a ball. I then didn’t want to walk anywhere, even with the ball, so you can tell my state of mind. Needs must though and to be fair I did feel better once I’d got going. Then we were off, up the coast of the Kattegat to Egense then left, or port, into the Limfjord and on to Aalborg, Denmark’s third largest city.

First of all I’ll tell you about the Limfjord, which actually isn’t really a fjord at all as it is linked at one end to the Kattegat and the other to the North Sea. The entry to and from the North Sea was formed naturally at its existing point, the Thyboren Channel, in 1862 giving access to the western part of the fjord and benefitting many of the towns in this previously remote (from the sea) area. The fjord is approximately 180 kilometres long and winds it’s way past many bays and islands. We could spend weeks here exploring and in a way it’s a shame we aren’t, but our destination is elsewhere, so Aalborg is as far as we are going.

Our mooring in Aalborg is at Skudehaven, just west of the city. We are along a high wall, which doesn’t make things easy for me, especially with my injured foot, but we are conveniently located right next to Aalborg’s Street Market, which means there is plenty to bark at when I’m feeling in the mood!

We are here until at least Wednesday as Jas is flying in on Tuesday night to crew with us across to Sweden. There are problems though as the weather forecast is not on our side (definitely not on mine) and high winds are expected. This might cause no end of problems with crew changes and wedding arrangements, so a plan B is being discussed, just in case. I’m really looking forward to my few days with my dog sitter, Jane, so hope it all works out in the end.

June 3rd 2024 – Aalborg

The wind has come as expected but we have a sight seeing day, so it’s not an issue. We all walked into city along the water side before heading in to look for a pet shop or pharmacist. Why? Because Alison decided that it might help if my wound, which is not healing, is protected by something called plaster spray. We got the spray from a pharmacist then carried on, in full tour guide mode, to walk round the sights of the city. Fortunately for me the city is small and compact and the sights all quite near each other so we had a pleasant few hours checking them out before lunch in the sunshine. Then Brian and I caught the bus back to Skudehaven – I love riding buses and this time I even had my own ticket! Robert and Alison stayed out for some more dress shopping and this time they were successful! Well Robert still wants to buy a shirt but at least that’s the wedding sorted. All they need now is to be able to get there!

June 4th 2024 – Aalborg

Another windy day and another day where I didn’t want to walk anywhere unless absolutely essential. So I stayed on the boat whilst they went to the chandlery to try and sort out the bedside lamp in Robert’s cabin. No luck unfortunately and as they don’t make then anymore it could be a bit of a problem.

After lunch Robert and Alison caught the ferry over to Egholm for a spot of cycling on the island. Apparently, it turned out to be a bit of an adventure as there aren’t many roads – one to be exact – so after checking out the Trolden they ended up pushing the bikes through some very overgrown tracks. I don’t think Robert was too impressed! They tell me the island is lovely though and under normal circumstances I’d be there eager for a walk along the coastline. I would have checked the maps at the ferry terminal too, so with me in tow they might have stayed on better paths!

June 5th 2024 – Aalborg to Nibe

This is the day it all changed. We’ve been battling the winds for the last few days but hoping that the forecast changes and we get that all important weather window to cross over to Sweden. As Jas arrived last night specifically for the crossing, there was much checking of weather apps, long range forecasts etc, etc. and it looked bad, very bad. So decisions had to be made: option 1, stay in Aalborg and hope the forecast changes; option 2, head to the Fjord entrance and try to move north along the coast and hope for a weather window there, or option 3, abandon the plan to get to Gothenburg by the 11th and explore the inland and more sheltered waters of the Fjord instead. No one wanted option 1, everyone really wanted option 2 but realised it would probably just have resulted in sitting it out in a different harbour, so the decision was option 3. But this has caused lots of issues for everyone – particularly Jane who is flying into Gothenburg specifically to look after me – and I won’t be there. It also means I don’t have a dog sitter, so only one of them can go to the wedding. Brian has decided that’s him, so all that shopping has gone to waste……..

Once the decision was made we set off west to the small and pretty town of Nibe. It wasn’t easy. It was blowing a gale, the only alongside had 2 yachts on it, one moored slap bang in the middle which meant there was no room to get in between them. We asked the crew if they could move up but they didn’t want to, it was too windy, they said. But other people came to help and in the end 4 men moved the yacht and then hauled us in – all against the wind. It all looked very hard work to me and I tried to encourage them, but all the thanks I got was shouts from our crew to keep out of the way!

We were told by one of the yachtsmen that the ice cream cafe in the harbour make the best ice cream in Denmark, so of course they had to try it. I wasn’t invited so don’t have an opinion, but I’m told it was very, very good. They even make their own waffle cones.

June 6th 2024 – Nibe to Fur

Still windy today but at least the sun came out every now and again so our trip west along the fjord wasn’t too bad. Our destination was the small island of Fur. It is 21.8 square kilometres in size with a population of around 750 and in 2010 it was voted Denmark’s most wonderful island. It is famous for its geological rock, known as molar clay. This very light rock is used for building blocks and cat litter and many fossils have been found within it. There is an excellent museum exhibiting some of these fossils.

The harbour was lovely, plenty of alongside mooring, an immaculate grassy play area and a beach. I’m not swimming yet so I couldn’t test the beach but it all looked very inviting. The only downside were 100’s if not 1000’s of jellyfish. Jas and Alison went off exploring on the bikes to check out the nearby village of Nederby and it’s beautiful church before they all went out to dinner at the restaurant by the harbour. We all really like this place, I just wish I was allowed to get out more!

June 7th 2024 – Fur to Skive

Before leaving Fur the plan was for Jas and Alison to cycle up to the cliffs in the north of the island and Jas was going to hire a big bike, rather than take the brompton. It started to go wrong when the hire shop was closed and then got worse when Alison managed to fall off her bike and cut her hand. So plans changed and they headed for the Fur museum instead for a clean up and a plaster, then as they were there they decided to go round the museum instead. Excellent museum I’m told, exhibiting lots of fossils and explaining the history of the molar clay.

From Fur we headed south, into what should be Limfjordens most beautiful Bredning (translated as broad), Lovns Bredning. I’m sure it is, but in the weather we’re having you can’t see too much of it. Our destination was Skive in the area of Salling and the sailboat harbour a few kilometres out of town. More lovely alongside mooring, a big grassy play area and a beach. Perfect. Even better though were kilometres of woodland paths behind the harbour – and I was allowed to walk! Oh I have missed this…. I even found a ball, so returned to Annapanna a very happy dog!

Later on Jas wanted to walk into town. Well it was Friday night and as a newly single older man he wanted to check out the social scene! As it was a 35 minute walk to the pub he fancied there weren’t many people keen to accompany him. It really should have been Robert, as another single older man, but I think Alison’s previous adventures have left him a little sore for a long walk (he has had 2 hip replacements) so it was just Jas and Alison (who I would have thought would cramp his style) that set off for a night on the town. They had a good night they said, meeting locals in a couple of bars. Jas did manage to chat someone up but she left after a while and someone else, rather younger and very attractive came along …. But she was talking to Alison. See I said she would cramp his style!!

June 8th 2024 – Skive to Nykebing Mors

Another walk in my favourite woods with Robert and Alison before heading back up the beautiful bredning in the pouring rain. It’s cold too, so yet again we missed on what should be a lovely sail. Our destination was another island, Mors and it’s main town, Nykobing Mors. Another lovely harbour with alongside mooring in the cosy inner corner of the harbour, right outside Cafe Holman and the local butchers. We are here for two nights as tomorrow’s weather is supposed to be even worse, which is as hard to believe, as is the fact that we are in actually in June!

They seemed to spend a long time in Cafe Holman, first going for tea then back for dinner. Lovely place is the verdict, very cosy in the awful weather, great staff and good food. After dinner Jas hit the town again, this time on his own. I’ll let you know how he got on, but I will tell you that after he left they had a good chat to the two women he had been eyeing up on another table….. so he missed out!

June 9th 2024 – Nykobing Mors

Very windy today as expected and we are staying put. This means that we went sightseeing instead but fortunately they isn’t too much to see, so I wasn’t too bored. I even went into the Dueholm Cloister museum as we were the only people in it and the lady said it would be ok (even though there is a sign on the door saying no dogs). We are all a little bored with this place and keen to move on but the powers to be (Brian and Jas) said no, so instead we went back to Cafe Holman yet again, this time for afternoon tea!

I promised to tell you how Jas got on last night…. Well he didn’t. Even though it was Saturday night the bars were quiet and unlike Skive the night before there was no one to talk to. Perhaps he should have taken me, a dog is always a good accessory, something he needs to learn.

June 10th 2024 – Nykobing Mors to Ejerslev

Still windy, still raining, so we had to stay put until later in the day. At least the shops were open so Alison could get her sunglasses mended (after Brian sat on them). Cafe Holman wasn’t though so they went in search for another cafe for coffee. No chance, nothing opened until later in the day.

I am feeling much better, you’ll be pleased to hear, even though I hate the salt water soak I’m subjected to far too often. As I had no I’ll effects from my sight seeing yesterday Alison decided I could go for a walk and what was even better, a swim in the sea. Even though it was windy, the sea at the beautiful sandy cove we found was millpond calm… and deep, so I could actually swim. We walked past the fishing harbour on the way and there was a lot of activity. On Saturday, just before we arrived, one of the fishing boats exploded. Parts were blown all over the harbour, but fortunately the fisherman on board was uninjured and got off safely before his boat sank. Today the fire brigade were trying to decide how to remove it and make sure no more fuel was released into the harbour.

I was a Happy dog, or at least I was until we set off. It really wasn’t rough, but I really didn’t like it. I never really like it, but this time I started shaking and they were all a bit worried. Anyway I got over it and when we arrived in Ejerslev a couple of hours later it was all worth while. Oh, we all love this place in the middle of nowhere. It’s still on the island of Mors but right up in the north east. There is a lagoon, known as the Blue Lagoon, right behind it with a lovely walking path all the way round. There are Mors Clay cliffs, a perfect little beach, lots of green and plenty of alongside mooring – and as we were the only boat visitors in the harbour we could take our pick. There was even a small and cosy cafe/restaurant but I didn’t go as it wasn’t dog friendly. They didn’t eat there but said the food looked good.
If you are in the area we urge you to go, you will love it. If you’re into flowers there are even beautiful wild Lupins on the hillside around the Blue Lagoon

June 11th 2024 – Ejerslev to Aalborg

Early start and amazingly Jas was up first and made everyone tea in bed (well not me obviously, I wouldn’t rely on Jas to give me breakfast). This has not happened all week so something must be up! Alison was up early too as the guy in the harbour restaurant said there was a wonderful bakery in the town nearby, so off she went on her bike to bring back bread and cinnamon rolls for breakfast on the go.. Except she didn’t, it was closed all week for holidays and they hadn’t told google! So sadly we can’t review it, but other people have said how good it is, so when you come to this beautiful harbour get on your bike and head to Sejerslev.

Then we were off and oh for more days like this – absolutely dead calm sea, just how I like it, all the way back to Skudehaven in Aalborg. Jas leaves us tonight, Brian and Robert on Thursday but Annapanna is staying put until Monday. So what are we doing you may ask? Well Alison is still trying to get to the wedding, but one thing is clear, I’m going nowhere.

We entertained on board tonight. We have British neighbours in the harbour, the first British ship we have seen this trip – and amazingly further along the quay there is another one too. In fact a passing Danish wag asked if there was some sort of British Invasion going on! As there are only 5 visitor boats in total you can see what he means. Anyway, Mark and Philippa came on board for drinks, much to the delight of Jas who so loves entertaining and then they all went off to the Street Market for dinner. Then suddenly, Jas was gone, back to the UK and some very important assignations. I know more – but my lips are sealed!

June 12th 2024 – Aalborg

Alison’s last ditch attempts to get back for the wedding included asking the harbourmaster if he knew anyone to look after me. He surprised her by saying they could, but then realised that meant on the boat, just feeding and letting me out, so not really an option, however well intended.

I then had another visit to a Danish veterinary hospital as around my nail injury looked rather red and inflamed, even though it wasn’t bothering me. Sadly, the vet said it was infected and the nail had to come off – and they could do it straight away. I didn’t even have time to consider it, I was just whipped in and sedated. What happened about consent? Just because I’m a dog doesn’t mean to say I shouldn’t get a say in all this. Anyway it was a done deed, whether I liked it or not and whilst Alison went off to the Viking museum without a care in the world, I was under the knife.

My little operation has finally put paid to any chance of Alison getting to the wedding, or even, which was plan b, a train trip up to Skagen, the lovely town at the northern tip of Denmark. So we are here for the weekend, on our own after Brian and Robert leave tomorrow, with little walking and definitely no playing.

After drinks on board Mark and Philippa’s catamaran they went for dinner at Ombord in the next door harbour to celebrate Robert’s last night. I stayed home nursing my bandaged paw, feeling very sorry for myself.

June 13th 2024 – Aalborg

Alison cycled back over the bridge to the vets in Norresundby to pick up my collar and whilst there was so alarmed about what they were saying about checking my wound she decided to book another appointment for tomorrow, so they could check the infection when the dressings were removed. This time we’re going by taxi!

Then it all started to go wrong again. Well it was the 13th June….. Brian and Robert set off for the airport to catch their flight to Copenhagen en route to Manchester. Got on the plane ok, taxied to the runway ok, then it was not ok. The plane was not well and wasn’t going anywhere. They all got off and were told they had to get parts, then of course fit them. They were not going to get their connection in Copenhagen. Quick check of the internet showed a late Easyjet flight from Copenhagen which had a few seats left, but first they had to get there. At 7pm they got on the plane to Copenhagen and Alison simultaneously booked the Easyjet flights… phew! It was 2am when they got home and Brian thinks he is going to be exhausted at the wedding, but at least he made it. This has to be the most expensive wedding ever. Number of flights cancelled – or missed – 9, number of new flights booked, 6. I just hope it’s a good one!

After all that Alison went out for dinner with Mark and Philippa to the other restaurant in the next door harbour, Kystens Perle. The verdict – better than Ombord. Homely, but very friendly.

June 14th 2024 – Aalborg

We had an early appointment at the vets but Dans taxi turned up on time in a doggy proof car so it was all very easy. We had a different vet this time and she was much more straightforward and clearer in her instructions: On board keep the wound uncovered and spray with antiseptic spray several times a day. I must not touch it, hence the collar; When I go out put on the sock (I now have a dozen or so children’s socks) and a boot (and I’ve got 8 of those thanks to my predecessor, Ben). The sock is kept in position by this nifty padded spongy ring on my leg (and I’ve a replacement one of those too if I need it). So it’s all good, I hope, but I’ve got 2 weeks of this regimen… and all paws crossed that the infection clears.

June 15th 2024 – Aalborg

Awful weather all day today. It’s just as well we didn’t go to Skagen, it would have been pretty miserable. It wasn’t much fun here either. Who has heard of putting the heating on in June! Anyway, we watched the Trooping of the Colour and cheered at the sight of the lovely Princess of Wales. No one has seen her for more than 6 months and we probably won’t see her again for while, but she definitely boosted spirits. I noticed it was raining in London too, so it’s not just here!

June 16th 2024 – Aalborg

Woke Alison up very early today. Well you would too if you had to sleep with a big plastic collar round your neck! I’ve worked out that it comes off when I get up (can’t eat or drink with it on) so it’s a very good reason for an early start. The forecast was awful again, but at 6.30am it was bright and sunny, so she should be grateful! It didn’t quite to plan though when the collar went back on when Alison cycled off to the supermarket – to stock up before Brian and Mags arrive.

Contrary to WeatherPro, the sun stayed out all day (apart for a short shower) and it actually got too warm for a while, which has to be a first on this trip. We are at the beginning of the Euro’s (football) and tonight Denmark were playing Slovenia. Outside the Street Market, just near the boat, they have set up a giant screen and from about 4pm lots of red shirted Denmark fans descended on the harbour. Hundreds of them watched Denmark draw and even though they were a goal up for most of the match and beer was flowing freely from the temporary bars in the park, it was all very civilized. I didn’t feel worried at all and was fascinated by the lines of people peeing in the bushes in my park. Lots of smells for me to check out tomorrow!

June 17th 2024 – Aalborg to Saeby

Eventually, almost two weeks after our planned departure, we are on our way to Sweden. Not quite yet as we have to travel north, then east via an island in the Kattegat before finally arriving just in time for midsummer, which I believe is a real celebration there. The sun was out and the wind not too bad when we set off back up the fjord and into Alborg Bugt. With the current on our side we made good time to our original destination of Asaa so they decided (again I’m not included in any decision making) to carry on to Saeby. They tell me that this shortens the crossing to Laeso, the island in the Kattegat, so I suppose I’m grudgingly grateful.

We arrived in lovely Saeby and found an ideal mooring right by the bridge into a small inner harbour. There are good coastal walks/cycle paths and beautiful beach, in fact everything I could wish for, but can’t use. There are restaurants and shops in the harbour and it’s a short walk into town and the pretty church.

June 18th 2024 – Saeby to Laeso

Well it wasn’t too bad. A bit choppy with the wind on our beam (impressed?) but the stabilisers did their bit so we got to Osterby Havn on Laeso about 3 and a half hours later. Another lovely harbour with sand dunes, beaches and lots of walks…. If only….. Mags and Alison went off to explore and came back raving about the rhododendron path. This beautiful cycle track is off a rhododendron park and is flanked by bushes for about a kilometre on a totally straight path. Sadly, we are a little to late for the blooms, but it is easy to imagine how beautiful it would have been a few weeks ago.

Dinner that night in Laeso Marina Park. Good meal and lovely owner. She also hires bikes so they have arranged to hire a big one for Mags tomorrow for the cycling trip to Vestero Havn in the west.

June 19th 2024 – Laeso

Busy day today, even for me who is virtually boat bound. Firstly, a visit to the fish shop in the harbour to buy a big bag of the local delicacy, lobster, as it is called locally, or crayfish to us foreigners. With dinner tonight sorted, off went the cyclists on their meandering trip to Vestero haven – and we went too! A trip out, such a big treat for me especially as Brian and I went by bus – and I love buses! After a bit of an explore round the harbour we all met up for lunch in the sunshine. This is a nice harbour, but we prefer ours and it’s definitely the choice if you’re looking for on side mooring. Mags and Alison told us the cycle trip was beautiful, either on cycling paths along the coast or small roads through the pine forests. They came across several of what are called Seaweed houses, which are literally houses with dried seaweed roofs. They are so cute, a bit like a shaggy dog. Something like Crumpet before she goes for her stripping.

After lunch Brian, Mags, me and the pink banana bike hired from Laeso Marina Park, returned to Osterby Havn on the bus while Alison continued on her tour and cycled down to the salt “factory” (although I’m not sure that is the appropriate description). This is salt making using a traditional method, Middle Ages in fact and the business has become a huge tourist attraction as well as a thriving industry. The salt making and the seaweed houses, along with the history of Laeso, are currently on the UNESCO tentative list.

June 20th 2024 – Laeso

Another day, another activity. For them, not me. This really should have included me, I really wanted it to include me, but it couldn’t, as beaches, long walks and swims are still off the agenda. So without me, Mags and Alison set off for a walk along the coastal path hoping to see beautiful views and basking seals. They got the views but not the seals, probably because they didn’t quite make it to Horneks Odde, which was a shame. Poor Mags had to recover when they got back. Two big trips in two days and she’s exhausted. Just as well tomorrow is a sailing day with its enforced rest!

In the evening I was left again whilst they went to the pub attached to the Laeso hotel to watch the England versus Denmark euro football match. A draw, not a great match apparently, but there were a lot of happy Danish at the end as they thought they were going to get trounced.

June 21st Laeso to Gothenburg

So here we are in Sweden, eventually, only 10 days late. It’s not really 10 days behind schedule though as the original plan was for Jane and I to stay here whilst they went to the wedding, so it’s really only about a week. It was midsummer’s day and we hoped to be celebrating with the Swedes but were really disappointed to find we had actually missed it! Not midsummers day obviously, but all the partying which apparently took place during the day. Last year in Denmark we were on an island and celebrated with a barbecue in the harbour and a bonfire, so it was all a bit disappointing.

The trip here to Lilla Bommen marina, right in the centre of town was beautiful. The sun shone, the sea was calm and the sail past the islands of the archipelago and into the mouth of the river was really spectacular. Originally we were going to spend a couple of nights on these islands, but unfortunately they became a casualty of the delays. Such a shame, perhaps another time.

June 22nd 2024 – Gothenburg

Day one here and it was chucking it down. It was expected so the plan was to hit the museums. It started well with Brian and Alison going to the Maritiman museum. All destroyers, submarines and other war ships. Not sure it was my cup of tea so I was happy to be left on board with Mags. Then it was Mags and Alison’s turn. They set off for Rohsska, the museum of Art and Design. It was shut. Then they went to the Natural History museum. It was shut. Apparently Sweden has a bank holiday at Midsummer but no one told Mr Google, so he said everything was open! Then giving up on museums they headed for Haga, the old town of cobbled streets, restaurants and….. the biggest cinnamon buns in the world …. Probably. They brought me one back and it was enormous!

I have to mention dinner as they tell me it was the best meal this trip. They dragged an unwilling Brian back into town to La Piccola Gondola, an Italian restaurant on the outside of the Market Hall. He was very glad they did. Good food, great service, lovely ambience.

June 23rd 2024 – Gothenburg

Much better day today so we all went off for a bit of a city tour. Yes, including me, socked and booted. They were a bit worried about my still raw nail bed but thought I’d be ok if it wasn’t too far. It was a Maw tour route, first to Kronhusbodarna, the oldest building in Gothenburg, then the Cathedral, City museum and finally the the beautifully restored and newly opened Feskekorka, or Fish Hall. Now a very upmarket group of restaurants (bit like a street market) it specializes in fish and although dogs are not allowed in they let us sit on the terrace overlooking the water. Then it was a dog friendly Uber back to the boat for Brian and I whilst Mags and Alison headed for the Rose gardens in the Baltespannarparken before a spot of shopping. The rose gardens are beautiful apparently and everyone but me got something from the shops. Not happy, there was no excuse as I know there was a dog shop in the shopping centre!

June 24th 2024 – Gothenburg to Trollhattan

So it’s goodbye to the City and the sea and hello to rivers, canals and lakes. We left our mooring at Lila Bommen and headed off down the River Gota and into the Trollhattan canal. The vital link between the North Sea and Lake Varern, the canal is 82 Kms long, has 6 locks, including a staircase of 4, that lifted us a total of 44 meters and 12 bridges. Initially we were going to stay in the small harbour at the top of the Lilla Edet lock but it looked a bit tatty and deserted so we carried on to the 4 lock staircase at Trollhattan. This very impressive set of locks, which lifted us 32 metres, is the 3rd generation of locks on the Trollhattan and were completed in 1916. The previous locks, built in 1800 and 1844 can still be seen in the park area of Gamle Dal. There is even a museum if you are interested in the history. What is impressive though is that they were hewn out of rocks which must have been a massive undertaking in 1916. The rock face is visible as you climb from lock to lock making it all a magical experience, especially on a beautiful day!

The little quay at the top of the Trollhattan locks was full so we carried on again to Trollhattan Marina on a little island opposite the waterfront cafes of Trollhattan. The alongside mooring here was full too and as Annapanna was too big and heavy to use the bouys further into the marina we were a bit stuck! In the end we moored on the outside of the pontoon where it said “No Mooring”. Well that’s what our neighbor said although google translate seemed to think it said “No Eating”. Anyway, that was our excuse and our neighbours didn’t mind even when their dog kept barking at me!

It should have been a good mooring for me, a lovely little park straight off the boat, lots of other canines to completely ignore… or not…. As the mood takes me, but it wasn’t, even for me who likes anything disgusting. The park is overrun by Canada Geese and the grass is literally covered in their poo. You can’t avoid it and it is certainly not pleasant. In a little while all these geese will have young and they can be aggressive in the protection of their family. I wouldn’t like to be there then!

One thing I need to mention are the famous waterfalls of Trollhattan. These man made falls were actually a planned release of water from the sluice gates, creating an amazing torrent of water which I believe was set to music. A major tourist attraction which sadly is not longer happening. There were no waterfalls in 2023 and this year it is restricted to 3 days in August when the Waterfall Festival is taking place. Apparently, it is all due to a reduced amount of available water. You could blame Climate Change but actually I think it’s down to using the water elsewhere. Such a shame we were really looking forward to them.

June 25th 2024 – Trollhattan to Vanersborg

Firstly, more bad news to add to the catalogue of issues we have had on this trip. Poor old Roger. He offered, as he did last year, to pick up the car from Sonderborg and drive it to Sweden to meet us. Initially, it all went well, until he got to the car. Then it didn’t. Nothing did. The car was totally dead. This car that is less than 3 months old was as flat as a pancake. This was Sunday. All day Monday he waited for Landrover Assist European breakdown partner to arrive (which should have been 09.30). After several phone calls and a lot of chasing they eventually arrived in the late afternoon with a loader that wasn’t big enough. You couldn’t make it up could you! When they eventually got the right sized loader they took the car and Roger back over the border to the garage in Flensburg in Germany, but by that time everyone had gone home, so instead of changing the batteries overnight they didn’t start until the next day. That’s today! Late this afternoon Roger got a call to say the car is sorted. Recharged and reprogrammed. He can pick it up at 9am tomorrow. So if all goes well he will join us on Thursday. Two days and a lot of hassle and upset, later. Poor Roger. He won’t volunteer again!

Back to our trip. We left Trollhatten before the harbour master could come and tell us off for mooring in the wrong place and carried on north through the final lock on the canal before it enters Lake Vanern. Earlier enough today to get an alongside mooring, we got an ideal place on the concrete pontoon in Vanersborg’s Gasthamn marina, a lovely harbour with a very friendly harbour master a few minutes walk from town. More importantly, for me, right next to a park. After settling in we headed off to explore the town and then on the advice of the tourist office, set off for a beautiful walk along the shore of the lake (not for me yet but maybe soon, pads crossed).

A quick comment about Vanersborg, the seat of the regional parliament of Vastra Gotaland County, it is also the childhood home of Utti, a good friend of Jane’s and one of Alison’s walking partners on the St Cuthbert’s Way. She left in 1974, which is so long ago I can’t imagine it, but still remembers swimming and playing on the beach. A memory I wish could have taken from here!

June 26th – Vanersborg to Lacko

Good news and bad news. The good news is that Roger has got the car back and is finally on his way. I won’t go into why the batteries were flat, but it seems at the moment this new car might just be unsuitable for our needs. It’s a hybrid as Brian was trying to be a bit green, but maybe that isn’t going to be possible. The bad news is that Annapanna is now playing up. For the second morning running an engine alarm has sounded although everything appeared to be ok. Yesterday it reset itself and so Boris, the engineer from the Netherlands, not the ex PM, said to carry on as he couldn’t explain it. Today the same thing happened but by coincidence there was an engineer in the harbour. Although he didn’t have time to look at the engine he did give a number of someone in Gothenburg, who thinks it’s just a lazy battery. Again it went off after a while, which fits with the lazy battery theory, so on advice we carried on, rather later than planned.

Beautiful trip across Lake Vanern on a warm, fairly windless sunny day. This was just as well as the trip involved meandering in between the many rocks and small islands that make up the northern part of Kallandso Island to get to our destination, the beautiful little habour right below the amazing sight of Lacko Slott. The harbour is only small and mooring is supposed to be bow to, but when it’s quiet no one seems to mind how people moor, so we were the 4th one mooring alongside and there was still plenty of room left.

The Slott is stunning, on the edge of a forest and in the middle of a biosphere reserve. Biosphere, means all living things on the planet and the environment in which they live. A biosphere reserve, designated by the UN and UNESCO, is a model area for sustainable social development with initiatives to encourage nature conservation, social development and research and education. A living space for all all. There is an excellent museum near the Slott, part of Naturum Vanerskargarden – Victoriahuset. It is in the same building as the hotel. Don’t miss it if you are interested in the development and conservation of the area.

June 27th 2024 – Lacko to Mariestad

A lovely lazy morning in the harbour which included a paddle off the beach. Hey, hey I’m getting there! No swimming yet but maybe soon. Then they went on a guided tour of the Slott before we set off for the town of Mariestad, on the east coast of Lake Vanern and our destination for the next two nights. We got the last place on the long quay, right next to the trip boat Marianne and even closer to the ice cream and food stalls. The whole place was buzzing in complete contrast to the silence of Lacko harbour.
And then – two days late – there was Roger. I was so excited to see him, I couldn’t contain myself. Perfect. Now I have even more people to make a fuss of me.

June 28th 2024 – Mariestad

We are here for two nights as tomorrow Mag’s is flying home from Gothenburg, on just about the only flight that hasn’t had to be cancelled and rebooked! Alison, Mags and I went off to explore the church and town, have a coffee and suss out the restaurants. Not sure why I was included in this trip as I knew I wouldn’t be invited for dinner, but it was just nice to get out after my enforced containment. The restaurant they chose was called Kingfisher and they tell me it was very good. I can actually comment on this too as they brought me back a doggy bag. Steak. Was it tender? No idea, why chew when you can just gulp it down!

June 29th 2024 – Mariestad to Sjotorp

Early in the morning Alison and Mags set off by car to the airport whilst Brian, Roger and I sailed north to Sjtorp and the start of the Gota Canal. It’s taken a lot longer than expected but at least we’ve made it and so tomorrow our cross Sweden trip begins. Alison returned in the afternoon via a detour to Lidkoping and Kinnekulle, which is part of the biosphere reserve. Lidkoping was lovely apparently and as it was market day the main square was buzzing. The harbour was a bit out of town though, so the conclusion was that they had made the right decision in choosing Mariestad.

We moored just through the first lock in Sjotorp. There was lots of green and lots of people passing by. Perfect for me and hopefully the rest of the canal will be the same.

June 30th 2024 – Sjotorp to Norrkvarn

Before I start telling you about our day 1 journey I think I need to give you some information about the canal. Inaugurated in 1832 it is 190 km long, has 58 locks and more than 3,000,000 visitors every year. It runs between Sjotorp and Mem, on the east coast of Sweden, so along with the Trollhattan canal it completely traverses the country from the Kattegat in the west to the Baltic in the east. It is Sweden’s blue ribbon. The brainchild of Baltzar von Platen, a Swedish naval officer, he enlisted the help of the famous Scottish engineer and canal builder, Thomas Telford and together they completed the design and plan for the canal in 20 days. Can you imagine that nowadays? It was then built, over 22 years and mainly by hand, by 58,000 Swedish soldiers.

There are three passenger ships travelling the canal during the high season and they all get priority at the locks. Just as we were about to leave Sjotorp we were told there would be an hour or so delay as M/S Diana was on her way. In our waiting place right by the lock gates we had a perfect view to watch Diana negotiating the lock and to admire the expertise of the captain. He then called out to us, admired Annapanna and asked if we needed a new captain.

Then we were off…. In the rain. We intended to get to Hajstorp but everyone was so wet and miserable we decided to stop at Norrkvarn instead. Norrkvarn is essentially a hotel and it has some very strange looking mushroom and Troll rooms in the woods. If you feel like a night in a mushroom, this hotel is for you. For us though its cozy restaurant looked very inviting, so off they went for dinner. No doggy bags this time and no tender steak either unfortunately.

Day 1: 9 locks

July 1st 2024 – Norrkvarn to Hajstorp

As you will have realized we now have the car to consider and to make sure we don’t have another battery problem it is moving with us. No, not along the towpath but by Alison cycling back to the previous mooring and picking it up. So essentially she is going to travel the canal twice! She didn’t want to cycle in the rain yesterday so straight after my breakfast – and before hers – she set off back to Sjotorp. It only took 30 minutes. Much quicker when there are no locks to negotiate!

Three hours and 10 locks later, including our first flight of 3, we reached Hajstorp and decided to spend the night here rather than go on to Toreboda. Return journey by bike 25 minutes! I’m not sure we’re getting very far and we have a long way to go! Hajstorp is a pretty little place to stop though with a cafe by the lock, a canal museum and a shop selling ceramics, rugs, jewellery and other items.

All along the canal some enterprising person(s) have put up bird boxes, but not just your average bird box but carved animals, birds, churches etc. I’ve included a small selection of my favourite ones here.

Day 2: 10 locks

July 2nd 2024 – Hajstorp

No movement today as we had a bit of a medical issue to attend to. An opportunity to test the Swedish Health Service this time. I think Brian is becoming what is known as a health tourist! It took several hours to sort, so Roger was looking after me whilst they tested Skovde’s very new hospital. The verdict of the system was all good, but more like the NHS (but without the crowds in A&E) rather than Denmark. I urge you again to make sure you have a Global Health Insurance Card. It is like gold dust in these situations.

Alison wasn’t allowed to stay with Brian whilst he waited to see the doctor, so off she went to explore Skovde. Skovde is home to one of the worlds largest automotive foundaries run by the Volvo group and a big military town. It has a nice town square and the streets surrounding are full of wall to wall cafes and restaurants, but there aren’t many old buildings as a fire in 1759 destroyed virtually all the medieval houses.

Day 3: No movement

July 3rd 2024 – Hajstorp to Karlsborg

A day later than planned we set off on the next stage of our journey with a planned destination of Forsvik. A much easier day as it was mainly bridges rather than locks, although we thought our journey had come to an end a few kilometers later when the footbridge at Toreboda faulted, holding up canal traffic for several hours. Fortunately, they got it working again a couple of hours later and we were on our way. When I say we, I mean Brian, Roger and me as Alison set off back to pick up the car and take it on to Totorp where we would meet again at the only lock of the day. Totorp is a pretty little place on the edge of Lake Viken and the manual lock altered the water height by all of about a foot or two. It was all very efficient and we were soon crossing the lake with Alison back on board. The eastern end of the lake follows the path of the old canal route, the Spetsnas Canal, and it’s a strange feeling sailing along a narrow passage with partly submerged lock sides and towpaths in the middle of a lake.

Then things went a bit wrong! Arriving in Forsvik we sailed past a long mooring area that was virtually deserted and assuming it was not our destination turned the corner and ended up in the lock! Seeing that there was also mooring on the other side (but not really having a choice anyway) we carried on, through the oldest lock on the canal (and a very pretty destination) to find no suitable space on the other side. Decision time, go back or carry on. We opted to carry on to Karlsborg getting there a bit too late for a decent mooring on the park so squeezed into a tight space with a short finger in the marina. Too high for me to get off at the bow we just managed to get the side ladder on the finger. Not ideal. I’m very glad I have my new full harness so I can be virtually lifted on and off. I think we need to buy one for Roger too as he tripped over the inconveniently placed ring getting off and came a real cropper. All ok thankfully except for bruises – to his pride and other parts of his body! The worst thing was that his hearing aid came off and fell through the gap in the wood. Everyone on this boat is a bit deaf anyway so they’ll just shout a bit more. This by the way, excludes me. My super sensitive hearing makes up for the lack of theirs and I’m always on the alert for any unwanted intruders – or even passerby’s if I don’t like the look of them!

Karlsborg mooring is right by the bridge between Lake Bottensjon and Lake Vattern. There are lots of cafes and restaurants around and a lovely park for me to play in. It is only a small town but claim to fame is it’s Fortress, KarlsborgsFastning, somewhere they are planning to visit tomorrow.

Day 4: 2 locks, 11 bridges

July 4th Karlsborg

No movement today other than to move to the other side of the waterway – we now have a much better (for me and Roger) along side mooring. It was car moving day so Alison cycled 42 Kms back to Tatorp to pick up the car , stopping to admire the church at Beateberg on the way. When she got back, off they went to the fortress KarlsborgsFastning. The fortress was built to realize an idea, called Central Defence. The idea was to build fortresses far away from the country’s borders to provide somewhere to protect the King, council and countries riches (gold mainly) in the event of invasion. The problem is that it took nearly 100 years to build and by that time the idea of Central Defence had moved on, so 9 years after completion in 1909 it became garrison housing various regiments. To some extent it is still used as a garrison and storage depot today, although now it is also a tourist site with conducted tours and an excellent historical museum.

July 5th 2024 – Karlsborg

No movement again today and maybe not even tomorrow. The rain and wind have returned and apparently Lake Vattern is not pleasant. I am very happy not to move! More delays and Brian was getting anxious, so to take the pressure off we have put back the ferry by two days and are now sailing on Saturday 20th instead. No doggy cabin so it looks like the kennels for me! The good news is that we have got a mooring for Annapanna at the harbor of our choice near Nykoping. So she will stay there whilst we return to the UK for a few weeks.

We all went out for dinner tonight. Yes, even me for the first time in ages! It was a very good night. The food was excellent (Alison even went into the kitchen to get the recipe for the rhubarb “pie”) and the staff were very attentive (to me especially). I think I behaved, so you never know, I might get invited again!

July 6th 2024 – Karlsborg

It’s just as well the ferry has been put back because we are going nowhere. Well, we were and we all set off in our different modes of transport, but a call to Alison and me in the car put paid to that. Lake Vattern is enormous and out of the protection of the land the waves were crashing. More than 2 metre waves are too much and so they decided to turn back. As tomorrow looks like being even worse, wind wise, we will probably be here until Monday. I know this isn’t what they wanted but I am personally very happy! Right next to the mooring is a park and next to the park is the lake – and I love the lake! Now I’m mended I can play and swim and here is perfect for my hydrotherapy.

I need to explain why Alison and I were in the car. As I said before, Lake Vattern is enormous. It takes about 2-3 hours to cross to Motala by Annapanna, 3-4 hours to get back to Karlsborg by train/bus (or 6 hours by bike) then another 1 hour to drive back to Motala. Too long, especially when we are so much behind schedule. So, the plan was for Alison and I to take the car and meet Brian and Roger in Motala – and I am more than happy with that arrangement. So with that plan we set off intending to take a few detours on our way. We still took the detours even when Brian rang to say they were turning back and so explored some of the beautiful forests and lakes of Tivedens National Park before retracing our steps back to Forsvik to check out the area we missed the other day. Forsvik is lovely and there is a great museum at Forsvik Bruk. We think Brian and Roger would love it and are going to take them tomorrow.

July 7th 2024 – Karlsborg

Still here and it is blowing a gale. We are moored up but it feels like we’re at sea! Not a happy dog. As I said yesterday the plan was to return to Forsvik Bruk so Brian and Roger could go round the museum, so, catching a moment between rain showers, we fought the very windy conditions and drove the 10 kilometres to Forsvik. 10 kilometres, that is all we have managed since last Thursday and now we aren’t moving until Tuesday! It is all very, very tight with absolutely no room for any more delays – which is not good as the weather remains unpredictable.

I’m afraid things aren’t good for me either. I think I have turned into a walking disaster area. You will have seen the joyous scenes of me back in the water yesterday, but the consequence of this is that I now have something called Swimmers Tail. Never heard of it? No, nor had any of us, but a kind lady at the museum (with a chocolate lab) recognized my problem as one of her dogs had had it. Oh dear, my tail looks like a limp rag, I can’t wag it and I’m not comfortable. Google confirmed I have classic symptoms and must rest for a couple of days, so yet again no more swimming.

July 8th 2024 -Karlsborg to Motala Verkstad

Well we eventually made it out of Karlsborg and a day earlier than we thought too. This morning we woke to blue skies and yes, some wind, but a lot better than expected. A quick check of the sailing weather app confirmed the wind would drop more later in the day, so a decision was made to try again to cross Lake Vattern. Off they set and off we set. This time there was no phone call and we could see from our various glimpses of the lake that things we much better.

As Roger and Brian trudged across the lake, Alison and I drove to Vadstena and parked below the towering walls of the castle. The mooring here is wonderful, right under the castle walls. If we hadn’t been beset by so many delays we would probably have detoured here, but at least we have seen it by car. In addition to the castle there is a monastery, the first one founded by St Bridget, which is now a hotel and a lovely old town centre with the oldest Town Hall in Sweden.

After coffee and cake at a pretty little town bakery (constantly harassed by the hooded crows that will pinch anything edible) we continued on to Motala and after a spot of essential shopping headed off to Motala Verstad to meet up with Annapanna. She was moored right outside the old Industrial Museum which is now leased to an American man as a music venue. We met him on the quay with his border terrier, just like Willow. He is only a few months old and really wanted to play, but I’m still not in playing mode as my tail is still not what it should be!

Then we all set off into town, Brian and Roger to the Motor Museum, Alison and me to look round the harbour area and old town. Well that was then plan, but as per usual, it chucked it down, so we spent most of the time in the car! We did venture out eventually, up to the old church and town square before returning to the harbour for tapas at Cava and Tapas. Yes, me again, this might even become a habit! One thing you need to know is that Sweden is very laid back about dogs in restaurants. Much more like the Netherlands rather than Denmark.

July 9th 2024 – Motala to Borensberg

A big advantage of mooring slightly out of town at Motala Verkstad is that it is only 10 minutes and no bridges to the top of the Borenshult flight of locks. We got there dead on 9am (Brian was dragged out of bed early) to find a sign saying next lock opening 11.30am. Ahh well. It was still worth it though as there was a long queue when we eventually started our descent (before 11.30 thanks to the super efficient lock crew). Fifty minutes later we were at the bottom of the 5 locks and heading across Lake Boren to our lovely mooring at Borensberg.

Borensberg has a real holiday vibe. The long pontoon ran almost all the way to the town lock and there are cafes and shops nearby. We really like this place. People walk past all the time and there is plenty of green for my walks. There is even a big playing area leading down to a beach, which unfortunately is off limits at the moment due to my swimmers tail. In case you’re interested it is definitely on the mend. The wag is back, just not quite as vigorous as it was.

After Alison came back from collecting the car from Motala we all went for an ice cream. Not enough ice cream is being consumed on this trip, apparently because of the weather (a reason that is alien to me). Anyway, today was warm and sunny so ice cream it was for all. Later we had a Barbecue, as did virtually every boat and camper van in the area. You can tell how desperate people are for warm, sunny days.

July 10th 2024 – Borensberg to Berg

Another walk down to the beach that I couldn’t play on then it was down to the lock for another early (for Brian) start. No lakes today, it was locks and bridges all the way to Berg upper, our destination for the night. Today we did 4 double locks, 1 single, 7 bridges and 2 aqueducts.
I think it’s time to tell you about the bridges on the canal, particularly in this section. They are called rolling bridges and we think the original ones were all made in Motala Verkstad, in the building that was the industrial museum where we moored a few days ago. They are a beautiful and simple design, all controlled remotely. Below is a video of a typical one.

We arrived in Berg upper to find lots and lots of boats and they kept on coming. We have no idea where from but I think we can assume that from now on mooring isn’t going to be quite so easy! Anyway, we were lucky and even managed to keep our alongside place – thanks to me and an old man……

Berg is a buzzing place, especially on a sunny afternoon. Berg upper marina is situated between the double lock at Berg Slussar and the top lock of the flight of seven dropping down into Lake Roxen. Perfect position near lots of greenery, a canal museum and a display of old lock gates. Alison cycled off to Borensberg to pick up the car whilst we went for a wander, checked out the old locked gates and made friends with our Swedish neighbours. Big night tonight, Eurocup semifinal and for some reason the Swedes are supporting England. Or possibly not supporting the Netherlands!

Alison returned via the Vreta Kloster, a simple but beautiful 12th century church next to the ruins of Sweden’s first convent. The church is immaculate as are the gardens, ruins and small museum situated in a beautiful old barn. The church roof is cedar, which we have seen before, but this one was even more impressive. Certainly a lot more ornate than the roof on our summerhouse!

July 11th 2024 – Berg to Norsholm

The flight of locks opened at 8 this morning so by 7.45 most of the harbour heading east had moved over to the long waiting pontoon. We thought we’d better get in the queue, so before their morning tea and without even waking Roger, they moved over – and then settled down for an hour or so wait. After 2 locks of boats the travel changed direction and Diana, the passenger ship, climbed the flight. It was sunny and we didn’t have a long journey, so all was chilled on Annapanna.

We arrived in Norsholm at lunchtime to find a full pontoon. Well it wasn’t really full, but too many of these sailors have not got to grasp with minimizing spaces between boats. We had to ask 4 boats to move up so we could get in. I know we’re big, but in high season they all need to consider space efficiency! Alison says she’s going to suggest they put signs up (as they have in most harbours elsewhere) saying no more than 1 metre between boats. The nice man who instigated all the moving had 2 children on board and a Crumpet lookalike. Actually he was a medium wire haired Dachshund rather than standard, so a bit smaller than Crumpet, but other than that, very similar. I wasn’t in the slightest bit interested in Crumpet, or Van Halen, as he was called, but I was desperate, and I mean desperate, to swim with the children when they were jumping off their boat.

July 12th 2024 – Norsholm to Soderkoping

Brian really wanted a lie in. He doesn’t like mornings and the recent early (for him) starts have not been in his comfort zone. But Alison and Roger persuaded him that today was not the day for a lie in. Alison told him he could stay in bed all day tomorrow if he wanted, but today we had to get the first bridge at 9am. It is just as well we did. It was a hot sunny day and everyone was on the move, so with 6 bridges, 7 single and 2 double locks to pass there were inevitable delays. Below are some sights along the way – including Van Halen on look out.

We were told by the lock keepers that there was space in Soderkoping but not alongside and we would have to moor on a boom. Imagine our surprise when we arrived there to find a perfect alongside space next to another British boat, Wave of Malden, who we had met before in Karlsborg. They told us we could moor behind them as the passenger ship using the reserved space was not returning until the 17th. Perfect and very lucky!

Soderkoping is probably the most popular place on the canal and you can see why. Yes, it’s very touristy but in a nice way. Lots of restaurants, cafes and small shops…. And ice cream sellers – everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Soderkoping is the ice cream capital of Sweden and people travel far and wide to queue for a sundae at their most famous cafe, Smultronstallet. Tomorrow, we are going to go.

The town is not all about ice cream though. It has a beautiful town centre with two medieval churches, an old town with narrow streets, low wooden houses and an old mill, and newer, rather grander buildings in the town square. There are beautiful houses that line the Göta Canal, slightly apart from the restaurants and shops on the main quay, and the whole town is overlooked by the steep cliffs and nature reserve of Ramunderberget on the other side of the canal.

After settling in, a wander round the town and drinks on deck we walked all of 10 yards to have dinner at Kanalkrogen. Very good, they said.

July 13th 2024 – Soderkoping

No movement today so Brian could have his lie in, Alison could climb the hill to the look out tower in Ramunderberget, everyone could wander round the sights in the town and then …… we could all have ice cream! As I said yesterday, Soderkoping is home to the most famous ice cream cafe in Sweden, Smultronstallet, and now we’ve been there! Yes, we had to queue, but it was worth it – and they even had ice cream for dogs! I was in heaven, it was soooo good. OK, it wasn’t the fancy sundaes they had, but vanilla is just fine for me. Even better, due to a bit of language confusion, they brought me a second tub instead of one for Roger, who didn’t join us as his tum wasn’t in an ice cream mood today. Just so you’re not concerned though, we did eventually get a tub for Roger and it’s now in the freezer waiting for him to feel like eating it.

July 14th 2024 – Soderkoping to Stegeborg

Today we said goodbye to the Gota Canal, handed in our pass cards, removed the label, went down the last lock and sailed into Lake Slatbaken towards the St Anna Archipelago. We had decided not to stay in Mem at the end of the canal as it was only a lock and half an hour or so on from Soderkoping – and nothing can beat Soderkoping now. Our destination was Stegeborg, the site of a castle ruin and a destination for the daily ferry from Soderkoping. With no concerns about finding a mooring space (as we have pre-booked all our remaining harbours) we could take our time in the sunshine and calm waters of the sund.

Stegeborg guest harbor lies beneath the castle ruins and our lovely mooring looked out across sund. There was a restaurant and little shop next door and comfy chairs and sofas on decks overlooking the water. This is a lovely place and in the height of summer, very quiet. Ok, there are lots and lots of camper vans – in fact all places were full, according to the sophisticated digital board in the motor home area – but that didn’t really affect us in any way. Near the motor home area was a long pontoon out to a tiny island, a very small nature reserve, with a disappointing sign saying ‘no dogs’. Oh well, not for me, but Alison walked round it and there was a Trident, an old swimming jetty, Sauna cabin and hot tub for rent and not much else.

After an inevitable ice cream we headed up to the castle ruins armed with a downloaded audio guide and headphones. As it was a ruin there wasn’t much ‘inside” to go in but I did go to the top of the tower with Alison. My little altercation with the metal steps hasn’t put me off climbing – just to see what’s at the top.

When we got back to the boat we found we had neighbours. Hans and Mimi are Swedish and live in Nykoping, which is where Annapanna is going to live when we head back to the UK on Thursday. They lost their dog very recently, so I was very much in demand. I got so much attention from Mimi I seriously considered swapping boats and keeping them company for a while.

July 15th 2024 – Stegeberg to Arkosund

The problem with warm sunny days is that they bring out the flies and wasps and I hate flies and wasps. So I was a very unhappy dog when I went for a walk down to the ferry with Alison. Note the “I was” as when we got to the ferry stop (you can’t call it a terminal) we saw the beach! Just a small stony shingle one, but a beach nevertheless, and I got to go in. I’m not allowed to swim and chase balls yet as my tail is still a bit sore and not yet on full wag, but I could paddle and dig up stones and that was fine with me.

When we returned to the boat I had a cuddle and a few licks with Mimi whilst they were giving us lots of information on what route to take and which islands to visit when we come back in August and move the boat to Stockholm. I hope we meet them again. Perhaps they’ll come and visit us in Nykøping.

Two hours after leaving Stegeberg we arrived at yet another lovely guest harbour, Arkosund. In the large harbour areas we’ve noticed that they tend to have separate guest harbours, which we assume are seasonal. This makes things so much easier for us as they are 100% geared up to all types of boats and Arkosund certainly is. We were met by a couple of young students in a rib who guided us into our alongside place, helped us moor and gave us information about restaurants, swimming places, shops etc. A great service.

We were told by Mimi that Arkosund is a lovely harbour in a beautiful area. She told us to look out for the grand houses on the shore which in days gone by were holiday homes for the rich cotton merchants from Norrkoping, the nearest city. From the harbour we could walk straight out into the one street village, past cafes and restaurants, little shops and an old steam engine shed, now used for the local fire engine. There is a little island (and I was allowed) with a tiny museum, inevitable sauna and swimming area. I was already in the water before Alison saw the sign saying no dogs in the swimming area! There was no one around though so it wasn’t a problem. Then we took the impressive wood walkway along the shore to the next harbour and met up with Brian and Roger. I prefer to forget the next bit but I suppose I must record it for posterity. In every harbour all along the Gota Canal were mini golf courses, a bit like crazy golf in the UK, and Alison kept saying they should have a game. So today was the day, but they seemed to have forgotten my hatred of golf courses (other than Danish ones), and took me with them. Well they may have forgotten, but they soon remembered once those clubs and balls came out! I kept as far away from them as possible, but my lead stopped me running all the way back to the boat, my preferred option. It is a 45 minutes I’d prefer to forget.

July 16th 2024 – Arkosund to Nykoping

Last day at sea on this trip as we set off in the sunshine to our destination, the guest harbour in the city of Nykoping. The trip was beautiful (apart from the bit around the steel works) and very sheltered, so even I enjoyed it to a certain extent! We are now just south of the Stockholm Archipelago and there are so many islands to navigate round. It is a little taster of things to come in August.

Nykoping is situated at the end of the Stadsfjarden inlet, has a 2km long pier acting as a breakwater and a beautiful town quay lined with restaurants. Mooring on the town quay and guest harbour is managed by the same people, Junnar, Marie, their daughters and a friend. We met the entire family plus their dog, a labrador the same colour as me, although a lot smaller and I have to admit, slimmer! The harbourmaster’s office doubles as a cafe with lots of homemade cakes made by one of the daughters. They loved the blueberry pie. We moored up on the town quay, right in front of the beautiful old harbourmaster’s office which is now a restaurant. When Junnar met us at the quay he told me where I could swim, so swim I did amongst the Oyster Catchers near the currant harbourmaster’s office. Whilst we were there another boat came in, which amazingly was another British owned Linssen. Mark and Sally have a lovely Grand Sturdy 460 which they have kept in Sweden (I think) for the last few years. Brian was impressed because they were using headsets to communicate – and they weren’t deaf like our lot! Anyway, Alison tried Sally’s on and discovered they fitted just fine, so when Brian said ours were the same ones (which Alison said did not fit her) we knew something was wrong. Now we know what – she was trying to wear them the wrong way round! She had no idea and the others didn’t notice. They’re all a bit simple if you ask me!

Then we were off into town along the beautiful river walk, past the castle and up to the old mill which is now a tapas restaurant. There were some big waterfalls up there, ok man made by the sluice gates, but still impressive. Then it was down the main shopping street and on to the inevitable supermarket for tonight’s dinner.

Mark and Sally came on board for drinks. Of course Brian was trying to plug the UK owners meetings and dinners. They are members but haven’t been. Nor have I of course but knowing some of the other members I think they will fit right in! Sally might be reading this if she manages to log on – if you are Sally, take my word for it.

July 17th 2024 – Nykoping

The only moving Annapanna did today was from the town quay to the harbour and our alongside place near the entrance. The car appeared in the afternoon after Roger went off on the flixbus from town back to Norsholm, where we left it 5 days ago. Conveniently we could park it right next to the gate and as we were in washing, scrubbing, packing and loading mode, it was just as well. It is always so boring for me on packing days and I didn’t even get a swim. I did get to the vets though, which we misunderstood was in a zoo. If it was a zoo it was in a shopping centre and it didn’t have any animals. Now I’ve never been to a zoo, but even I know you’ve got to have animals to be able to call it a zoo. So a zoo it definitely wasn’t. It was much more like Pets at Home and as I love Pets at Home I was perfectly happy, even when they made me take my worming tablet.

By evening all chores were completed and we walked back down towards the quay to view the old cars. On most Wednesdays during the summer Nykoping has classic car meetings in the park area at the end of the quay. Each week they have different themes and this week it was German cars. There were certainly a lot of German cars around but the enormous American limos that seem so popular in Sweden were also out in force. We found an old VW Beetle the same age, model and colour as the one Alison had when she was very young (a long time ago) and an Audi Quattro similar to the one Brian had when he was a bit older (but still young). Can’t imagine it myself but you have to believe them!

Back on deck with our takeaway fish and chips lots of locals wandered past wanting to chat and give me a stroke and I was very happy with that. I think we were a bit of a talking point in the harbour which is all good to me. Brian even rode out (well, drove out) as a knight in shining armour – coming to the rescue of a family unable to get a taxi to pick up their daughter and grandson from the train station. They had noticed the car and asked the favour and he was only too happy to oblige. The family was Dutch and as a thank you we got a packet of syrup waffles – we all love syrup waffles.

July 18th 2024 – Nykoping to Malmo

So the homeward journey commenced. All the hard work of yesterday paid off as we were right on schedule leaving the marina for our 6 hour journey to Limnhavn in Malmo. We’ve been to Malmo before with Annapanna but this time we are in a hotel just behind a different harbour, the much larger Limnhavn. It’s definitely out of town but that’s what we wanted, as tomorrow we have an even longer journey back to a favourite place, Dotlingen. The hotel is ok … but … I won’t be going back. There is no lift and the stairs are slippery and after the incident with my nail I was not a happy bunny. I virtually had to be lifted down the stairs, either that or I’d try to take the whole lot in one jump, which probably wasn’t wise. On the plus side though, just across the road was the harbour, lots of green and footpaths along the coast.

We all went out for dinner to the restaurant in the harbour – sold to Brian because it had oysters and me because we could sit outside. The meal was good and the walk back at sunset even better. The hotel is near the Oresund Bridge, the famous bridge linking Sweden with Denmark and subject of the scandinoir TV series, The Bridge. We are going to cross it tomorrow but tonight we could just admire the view.

July 19th 2024 – Malmo to Gut Altona Hotel, Wildeshausen

Off ahead of schedule today – There is a marked improvement in timekeeping at the moment. Over the famous bridge and into Denmark and then there was a change of plan. We were going to drive via Kolding rather than take a ferry but as this added 150 miles onto our journey a last minute decision was made to take the Rodby – Puttgarden ferry instead. We were all glad we did. The ferry is every half and hour, takes 45 minutes to cross and, very importantly, dogs are allowed on the decks. Even more importantly, these decks are anti slip, unlike the horrible ones in the dog exercise area on the P&O ferries to and from Hull. I’m going to have words with P&O. If they really want to sell themselves as a dog friendly service they need to take note!

The ferry was very efficient, we got there at 11.20, bought our ticket at the barrier, boarded 15 minutes later and were off at 11.45. Impressive. Coffee in the sunshine, a chill on deck then it was back to the cars and off we went. It is more expensive than the fuel we would have used if we had driven, but a whole lot more more relaxing.

Then we continued on our way to Hotel Gut Antona. It’s our 3rd visit and Roger’s first. He was impressed I think. We managed to get a room with direct access to the garden this time, which was ideal for me. It was also very near the restaurant terrace, which was ideal for them! Not much of a walk this evening but I did manage to get into the stream – and then disappear and run all the way down it! It has been very hot today so I needed it. They were all having showers so a water bath for me was only fair.

July 20th 2024 – Gut Altona to Europoort

Last day of this trip. I did get an early morning walk today – before it got too hot – and before they had their breakfast. I was going to join them for breakfast on the terrace but it all got a bit too exciting, so I ended up back in my room. Shame, but I think I’m better behaved in the evening.

Then we were off, back to the ferry via another favourite place, Amersfoort. It was too hot to do much sightseeing with Roger so we just checked out the Koppelpoort then headed into the old town for lunch. Me – and my hot feet – were very glad to get back to the car and its aircon.

There were long delays at the doggy check in at Europoort. I think they were being extra vigilant with checking the passports as the two people in front of us had to contact their vets for confirmation of one thing or another. Luckily, mine passed the test and we have Ann, my vet in the UK, to thank for that. She said she couldn’t sign off the rabies jab in my Dutch passport and we had to get a vet in Europe to sign it. We got that done when I had my staples out, so all was ok. Not so for the two dogs with Belgium passports and a British rabies stamp! I think they did eventually get on the ferry but it was all a bit worrying. I would not like to end up in quarantine!

Home in the morning for a few weeks before we head back in August to move Annapanna to Stockholm for the winter. Not sure exactly when yet but I’ll catch up with you all again soon.