Prologue

With no Covid restrictions or big birthdays this year we are off on our travels earlier than what has become normal. Brexit hasn’t gone away though so there are still restrictions, just not of the medical type. We are heading back to our 2022 base at Zehdenick before sailing north to our home for 2023, Denmark. This means crossing the Baltic and the Baltic has sea attached to it, something I’m not necessarily looking forward to. I just hope those stabilisers work!

This year I have a friend travelling with me. His name is Sturdy and he and his brothers are some of the best travelled seals in the world. He will appear on several of my pictures, photobombing my poses just so his family know where he is.

9th – 10th May 2023 – Whalley to Magdeburg

Usual boring packing process, car packed to the rafters – even invading my bed space – then we were off. Pride of Rotterdam to the Netherlands, happily in a dog friendly cabin, then a long drive to Magdeburg, our on-route stop for the night. The Herrenkrug Parkhotel is situation in the middle of Herrenkrug Park, a short walk from the River Elbe with a racecourse, golf course and tram station right on the doorstep. We didn’t venture into town (luckily for me) but if you wanted to it would be a very convenient place to stay. What we did do was have a long walk to stretch all those car weary legs. The park was lovely with paths crisscrossing through it and hardly any people about, which was perfect as I could run off lead for most of the time. There is lots of shade from the many trees in the park but I just hope they are all there in a few years time as they are being blighted by the Asian Longhorn Beetle. Nasty thing, we even saw one on our travels.

11th May 2023 – Magdeburg to Zehdenick

Another two and a half hours and we were at Annapanna before lunch. The long awaited Greek restaurant is now open and it’s all looking very smart. So is Annapanna who has been washed and polished ready for our trip. Don’t think she’ll look this clean for long! Several hours unloading, unpacking and then of course shopping before I could get my walk. Then it was time – and it was fine for me, but the mossies were out in force so Alison came back covered in bites.

12th May – Zehdenick

Another day of jobs, including washing the deck cushion covers just for me to dirty them again! Filled up with the most expensive fuel in Europe – tip buy yours in Poland if you’re heading that way – and then we were ready to go – tomorrow. So it was then time for my long waited swim again blighted by the dreaded mosquito. I hate bigger flies of any sort – blue bottles have me running for cover – but mosquitoes are not a problem as they have no chance of getting through my coat to suck any blood out of me. Tics are another issue though, they seem to be everywhere. Just as well I took my tablet before I left home!

Home alone at night as they walked across the car park to the new Greek restaurant. Very smart with wonderful views and the food’s not bad either!

13th May – Zehdenick to Oderburg

So it was time to say goodbye to Marina Zehdenick and begin winding our way to our first stop of the trip, Marina Oderberg on the Oder-Havel-Kanal. Firstly we headed south, on the Voss and Malzer canals, retracing our steps from last year before turning east rather than south west onto the Oder-Havel-Kanal. This has to be one of the most boring canals in Germany, miles and miles of straight nothingness without any visible towns along the way to break the monotony. To its credit though, it must also be one of the most pristine, as a massive development project is well under way dredging, repairing and generally tarting it up, we assume to encourage the commercial traffic that need to use the 36 metre boat lifts at Niederfinlow. Our highlight of the day.

Now for a bit of history. The original boat lift took 7 years to build and opened in 1934. In its inaugural year it had 2,832,000 tonnes of traffic and by the start of 1939 100,000 boats had used the lift. In other words it was very busy! With a few overhauls it is still running today, but now it sits alongside a brand new one, which took 16 years to build and opened October 2022.

We were directed towards the old one, I think it is just luck of the draw, and entered behind a trip boat that spends its day going up in one and down in the other. It might have been cool to travel in the new one, but as the old lift may not stay open after 2025 we felt we had travelled in a bit of history.

Eventually we arrived at our destination, Marina Oderberg and to put it mildly it was not what we expected. We got a good mooring behind an ice breaker with not too long a walk on the nasty metal pontoons to the land. The harbour master or housekeeper, as he preferred to be known, was charming, but it is clear that all is not well in Marina Oderberg land. The hotel and restaurant are shut, they are piles of earth and old machinery everywhere and the whole place is in need of some TLC. I hope they manage to sort it all out, otherwise I’m not sure how long it will survive.

On a plus note though, right outside the main gate is what is called a shared bioreserve. Tracks with look out towers, reed beds, woods and undisturbed grassland. Great walking for me as long as I kept to the tracks and away from the ground nesting birds. We didn’t see too much though, a single stork, a deer and lots of those unidentifiable ground nesting birds. Alison even went up the tower by a reed bed, but saw nothing.

14th May – Oderberg to Szczecin

We did plan to return to the bioreserve with binoculars before leaving but the charming housekeeper was obviously having a Sunday lie in so he hadn’t unlocked the gate! Not great for my constitution but I managed.

We used Navigo exclusively today as we were in no chart until we reached Szczecin. This is like relying on SatNav in your car without having a clue where you’re going and it caused a few tensions amongst the crew! Firstly, it wanted to take us on the Oder River rather than canal, but fortunately for us the canal lock was on green and waiting for us so we opted for that, only to be told by the other boat in the lock that this was definitely the best way as water levels on the river can be variable… Plus it meant no more locks. Then on nearing Szczecin Navigo wanted to take us on a weird and wonderful route round to the north of the city before turning south for our destination – which of course it didn’t have in its database! Fortunately, Michael and Connie had included a little map of the waterways of Szczecin with all the charts they have loaned us and that explained why we had to take the route we did (low bridges) and where the marina was. We were given one by the harbourmaster on arrival but it’s was more useful to us beforehand.

We are now happily moored right next to two enormous yellow cranes which I assume form part of the museum next to them. We have great views of the city across the Oder and lots of activity. A big plus for me!

15th May 2023 – Szczecin

We are in Szczecin for three days and Szczecin, you may have guessed from the name, is in Poland. It’s only a brief visit as once we leave here we head back into Germany on route to Augustenborg. Now my language skills are much better than theirs (remember I have a Dutch passport) but Polish is leaving me stumped. The locals seem very friendly and seem to like talking to me but I don’t have a clue what they’re saying. I just wag my tail and hope for the best – but who knows!

So today, of course, was sightseeing day. My favourite pastime! Alison of course has the maps and the city has a red line (like Hanover) so follow the red line we must! We checked out the impressive buildings facing the river, the Maritime University, the National museum and the Town Hall then round the old town to the Cathedral, castle and lovely old town hall. All very fine, if you like that sort of thing.

16th May 2023 – Szczecin

Today was the arrival day for Jas and Ron. Their flight was very early so we expected to hear from them mid-morning. Nothing. Midday. Nothing. One o’clock. Nothing. Brian then thought he should ring Jas to find out where they were. In the UK is where they were as they aren’t flying until tomorrow!! Ha ha very funny we thought. I’m totally chilled about staying here for another day and Alison is delighted as she got so much stick a few years ago after mixing up the days they were supposed to meet up with Jane and Harry in Beaune. It’s payback time!

17th May 2023 – Szczecin

Today they did arrive. Bright and early and ready for their travels. Jas has an injured ankle which is hampering his walking so a trip along the red line was not for him. He did manage a decent walk along the promenade though and over the bridge where they had a Greek lunch in the sunshine. I wasn’t invited as they thought they would be sitting inside – or so they said. I was not impressed! Then Ron set off along the red line and Alison and I headed for the park we’d seen on our tour of the city. Lots of dogs, lots of off lead, so I forgave them the lunch.

18th May 2023 – Szczecin – Ueckermunde

I’ve just been going back over the blog and noticed that the whole section of Ueckermunde is missing. Not sure what happened but now I’m going to have to remember it!

Firstly, it was Alison’s birthday and for the first morning in a long, long time she got tea in bed! Not from Brian mind you, but Jas. Thank you Jas. Then we left Szczecin, continued north on the West Oder and into the Szczecin lagoon. Then it was west to Ueckermunde Strand then down the Uecker to Ueckermunde and the town quay. We got a perfect mooring outside the restaurant they had booked for the birthday dinner and then set off to explore the town.

Pretty houses, lovely main square and a great walking/cycle track all the way up to Ueckermunde Strand. As you can see from the picture we had birthday ice cream on the town square.

19th May 2023 – Ueckermonde to Kroslin

On another sunny but cold and windy day we set off from Ueckermond, north into Kleines Haff then west towards Pennestrom before heading north again to Kroslin. There was a bit of drama along the way as we came across a large yacht that had gone aground. We edged close enough to attach ropes but even the weight of Annapanna could not shift it off the rocks we assume it was struck on. Of course I didn’t help much but the “boys” got stuck – but all to no avail. In the end we had to concede defeat and left them, luckily on a lovely sunny day, to call for more professional help. We later heard that they were still there a couple of hours later and another big boat was trying unsuccessfully to pull them off. We may never find out how long it took to free them or how much damage was done to their lovely yacht.

Eventually we reached our harbour at Kroslin but it took a while to settle as the alongside mooring was onto a railing. Why do harbours do this? How do they expect us canines too big to be carried to get off and on? I did manage to get off via the ramp but getting back on was a different matter. Not in a million years am I climbing up that slippery piece of plastic set at well over 45 degrees! Luckily we found a box with a lovely wide finger with that all important green sign on and swiftly moved to our new location. As we are here for 2 nights it is just as well! We are here for 2 nights as tomorrow we are all going to catch the ferry to Penemunde. Yes, that includes me and it involves a big day out!

20th May 2023 – Kroslin

So here was the plan. The 11.40 ferry to Peenemunde, several hours looking round the sight (didn’t sound like my scene), then another ferry to Freest for a wander round the traditional fishing village, an early fish tea and then a walk back to Kroslin (did sound like my scene).

I liked the ferry. There were lots of people and several dogs, so plenty to keep me occupied – and as the movement bothers me less than on Annapanna I could keep an eye on all the goings on. Then we arrived in Peenemunde and immediately split up. The boys did the tour of the Russian submarine whilst Alison and I went for coffee. Then they swapped so the boys stayed with me. This was just the sort of sight seeing I like!

At this point I feel the need to educate you on what Peenemunde is all about. So here goes, with help from the boys and Wikipedia!

During the Second World War Peenemunde was highly involved in the development of the production of V1 and V2 rockets. The V of these rockets stands for Vergeltungswaffe (retribution or vengeance) as they were used to bomb European cities, mainly London, to wrought terror on the cities in revenge for their successes during the war, particularly the allied landings in France. In south-east England alone almost 10,000 V1 rockets, also known as doodlebugs, were fired indiscriminately with the sole intention of creating terror and causing as much death and destruction as possible. The V2 rockets were effectively early cruise missiles, silent and deadly. Over 3000 of these were launched against England resulting in an estimated 9000 deaths.

So, a lovely place then and definitely not for me. Luckily I didn’t have to go round the inside and main part of the museum so could hang out in the sunshine waiting for them all to come back after their turn. The verdict – a well planned and interesting museum. So if you are in the area then go – just leave Fido at home if you can!

Then it was my turn. Another ferry took us to Freest, a pretty little fishing harbour with a lovely long sandy beach which even had a special doggy play area. There was only one problem, no ball. How could they? HOW COULD THEY! Luckily Ron came to the rescue by locating and buying me a new ball in one of the cafes. Ron, thank you so much, you are my best friend forever. After a brilliant chase around – Ron can throw the ball much further than Alison – one exhausted dog went with them for fish and chips before wandering back to Kroslin and my much needed bed. Good day all round, but for different reasons!

21st May 2023 Kroslin to Stralsund

On the move again. North west into Greifswalder Bodden then west into Strelsund and north to Stralsund, our destination for tonight. We got there nice and early so had plenty of time to look round the city once we’d moored up in the city marina. Stralsund is an old Hanseatic League city and although now in Germany in the past it has been capital of Swedish Pomerania and until 1945 part of Prussia. Being one of the most prosperous members of the medieval Hanseatic League it wasn’t surprising to find a number of beautiful buildings within the old town, or that it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002. Unfortunately this meant more sight seeing for me, but a kindly old man outside one of the many churches took pity on me and gave me not one, but three rodeos and that more than made up for it.

This could be Ron’s last night so they decided to eat out again in the evening. I wasn’t invited which was fine by me as I’d had enough by the time we returned from exploring the town. They didn’t go far, just the restaurant at the end of the jetty. What with Jas’s leg and Brian’s back the old crocks didn’t want to walk to far!

22nd May 2023 Stralsund to Gedser

The big crossing today. Germany to Denmark via the Kubitzer Bodden and into the Baltic proper! The day I’ve been dreading! We started early, so at a sunny 06.30 we were underway and all was calm. As the day wore on the wind got up but the stabilisers did their bit for most of the time – so I was actually quite a chilled dog. Eight hours later, with very crossed legs, we arrived at the harbour in Gedser on the Island of Falster and it was straight off and into the sea before anyone could stop me. Bliss. The sea water wasn’t as I expected it though as was barely salty. They call it brackish and that’s fine by mean as it means I don’t need to rinse off when I come out.

Our alongside mooring was ideal and just at the right height for me to get on and off. The harbour is small and pretty with a very smart looking restaurant and two, yes two, mobile saunas – and even more friendly harbourmasters. It is located next door to a conservation area with lovely walks through the woods and along the beach. What’s not to like. I am very happy that we are staying here for 2 nights.

As it was Monday all the restaurants in town (all 3 of them) were closed so it was off to the only shop for more supplies. During the voyage Jas had been keeping everyone amused by reading out reviews of this shop, some not complimentary, so they were not expecting too much. In fact the shop was excellent with plenty of supplies and friendly staff so it definitely gets our vote. Ron had decided to stay until the morning so we had time to wander round the town and head back via the commercial harbour further south hoping for a beer in the tavern. Guess what, the tavern was closed.

23rd May 2023 Gedser

We are staying another night here as the forecast is not good – for us. So after we said goodbye to Ron we went off for a walk and swim in the nature reserve. That was Brian, Alison and I as Jas’s leg is getting worse, so he has to rest it. By that I mean not walking on it, so instead he took off on one of the bikes to explore the area, which I’m not sure qualifies as rest! Alison followed after our walk and I’m told they met up for coffee then carried on their exploring in the rain. Jas saw red squirrels and very noisy common green or edible frogs whilst Alison headed for the views at the southern tip of the island then cycled up the east coast to meet up with Jas. Good day, but cold and windy. Glad I was left in the warmth of the boat.

24th May 2023 Gedser to Bagenkop

Off again. Another long day at sea, another 8 hours or so without a comfort break. I’m sure there are rules about this somewhere. Anyway, it wasn’t as rough today so I managed, in fact I think I’m getting more used to it. But at the end of the day I got another reward, another lovely harbour with an even better long sandy beach next to it. More swimming, more ball chasing. Heaven.

Bagenkop and its harbour is on the island of Langeland which is clearly an holiday area in Denmark. Fortunately it is still relatively quiet at the movement and so we managed to grab a perfect mooring on the quay. Ideal for me – easy to jump off and lots of people to bark at – which doesn’t always go down too well! The harbour is surrounded by holiday homes, all identical and a bit Lego like, but then this country is the home of legoland so maybe that’s appropriate.

Shortly after we arrived a beautiful tall ship from Friesland came in causing quite a stir. We met the crew later playing bean bag darts on the quay. A bit weird don’t you think, especially as the dartboard is on the ground!

25th May 2023 – Bagenhop to Marstal

A short trip today so Alison and I left the crew in bed and went off to find the wild horses of Langeland. They’re wild in the way Exmoor and Dartmoor ponies are wild, which is funny as these wild ponies are actually Exmoors. Imported onto another island in 1964 to help with the land management, they were then introduced to Langeland in 2006. We found the ponies but had to take quite a detour to get near enough to photograph them. That was all fine by me as it just meant a longer walk.

It was much windier today so we were expecting a rougher ride, but the stabilisers came into their own and we had a very straightforward 2 hour hop to Aero, the next island west. We moored in Marstal, on the southern tip of the island, alongside on a brand new jetty in a perfect position for exploring the town. For future reference this was on bro 2, but next time we might moor bow to on bro 10 at the other end of the harbour. It’s not as convenient for town but the octagonal (at least 8 moorings) jetty looks out onto what we call a lagoon. So perfect for swimming off the boat and paddle boarding.

Marstal is a very pretty town and definitely has more to it than Bagenhop. We had lunch in a cafe on the Main Street in town with what must be the slowest and most off hand service around. Don’t go there! I’m not naming it but the photo gives it away.

Alison then went off the check out the beach huts on the other side of the bay. Interesting, but look better from a distance was the verdict. Good beach though – so next time I’ll be on it.

26th May 2023 – Marstal

The original plan was to stay on Aero but head north to another harbour further up the east coast, but as the forecast wasn’t good we decided to stay out and make use of the free island bus instead to take a day, trip firstly to Aeroskobing and then up to Soby in the north.

Well behaved dogs were welcome on the bus and I was very well behaved, even though it was quite busy. Arriving in beautiful Aeroskobing less than 30 minutes later we then wandered round the lovely old streets and had coffee in the courtyard of a wonderful coffee shop and distillery – as far away from the service of yesterdays coffee stop as you could imagine. If you go to Aeroskobing and we definitely recommend it, do not miss this shop next to the main square. I think it’s called Den Gamle Kobmaandgaard.

Aeroskobing is the best preserved eighteenth century town in Denmark and includes parts that are more than 750 years old. There are cobbled streets, colorful houses and an excellent island museum. Even I liked it. We then wandered down to the smokery in the harbour for lunch. Not sure about smoked herring but the mackerel was good.

Then it was back on the bus and on to Soby, the 3rd main town on the island. We kept looking for the vineyards that we thought were nearby but didn’t see any. We found out they had only just been planted – so I don’t think you’ll see any Aero wine for a few years yet. There isn’t a lot to do or see in Soby, so after wandering up to the windmill and church and an ice cream in the harbour we were ready to get back on the bus to take us home to Marstal.

On return to base Jas, Alison and I stopped at the buzzing little bar by the harbour for a local beer whilst Brian went – guess – shopping! I think he is obsessed with shopping! Beer IS expensive in Denmark and Aero, the local beer, more expensive than others….. but they felt they should support the island as much as possible, especially after reading all about their struggles to remain independent in the museum. Anyway the bar is great and I got SO much fuss, at least 5 minutes of back scratching – just heaven.

It was Jas’s last night so after dinner on board off they went without me to one of the two Irish bars in town. How come two you may ask (it isn’t a big town)? Now we know. They are run by two brothers, one following the other out to the island. The story is a bit more complicated than that apparently, but that is the gist of it. There was live music so they thought they would go for a sing song. Unfortunately half of the singing duo was ill so it wasn’t quite as good as expected. Lovely owner though and friendly bar. Glad I didn’t go as I don’t like loud music!

27th May 2023 – Marstal to Sonderborg

It was an early start as we had to get to Sonderborg, on the island of Als, for Jas’s bus to Bilund before his flight the next morning. Only five hours today and not much wind, so a good day for me. Getting here early had the advantage of nabbing a perfect place on the quay after the bridge, right in front of a towering new hotel and multicultural centre. We are not on the town quay, but that’s only a few minutes walk away and the big advantage here is that there are no vertical posts stopping us moor against the side AND it’s the perfect height for me to jump on and off. There is also a big patch of grass behind. Not quite doggy heaven but a happy place, especially as we are here for two nights.

We all walked Jas to the bus station, said our goodbyes and then wandered back through the town. Of course they had to shop so off they went to Fotex, the recommended supermarket. Very good I believe. They sell dog chews which, if I’m honest, is all I’m interested in.

Evening walk down to the Slot and onto the promenade and beaches. I was desperate for a swim and dogs are allowed on part of the beach, but we couldn’t work our where and it was busy, so not ideal. We now know the law in Denmark says that dogs must be on leads after 1st April. Oh dear…

28th May 2023 – Sonderborg

Busy day today …… for them. Change of crew next week so much washing, drying, cleaning, bed making. I was just exhausted watching it all. It was a beautiful sunny, but windy day, so ideal for all that drying. I then got a walk, back to the Slot and the beach. I was excited…. But all to no avail. Too busy and anyway it was lunchtime. We all had lunch at Brasserie 1761 before walking back along the quay to one of the best ice cream and coffee shops. We will have to bring Mags here, although I didn’t notice whether they had pistachio or not.

Not invited out to dinner with them. I can’t remember the last time I was. I think I’m deprived. They went to Bistro Grand Mere on the quay. A bit like Cafe Rouge apparently. Food good, service good. Lovely English waiter. They will be back, with or without me.

29th May 2023 – Sonderborg to Augustenborg

Slow start then a two hour saunter up the Augustenborg fjord to Augustenborg haven and our residence for the next few days. It’s also where Annapanna is staying when we go back to the UK at the beginning of July.

Augustenborg Yacht Haven is smaller than we expected, but very friendly and has lots of walking paths on the doorstep. What’s not to like. We are here until at least Thursday as Roger doesn’t arrive until Wednesday.

30th May 2023 – Augustenborg

Alison decided to go for a run this morning, the first in many months. It’s all fine by me as it means I get my breakfast that bit earlier. Then we went off to the Slot, or castle, for a walk around the grounds and supposedly lunch at the cafe there. Not so, as it was shut, so back we went to the high street and along to the biggest supermarket in town (very small) for a picnic for them and nothing for me! They could have just left me at the very inviting beach. Give me a ball and I won’t move! After the trudge it was back to the slot, picnic on the grass in the sunshine and THEN a swim and a play – at last.

After my play Alison and I carried on into the woods and along the shore. Sadly I had to be on a lead so I didn’t get another swim opportunity. Beautiful walk though and it continues all the way to the headland.

31st May 2023 – Augustenborg

Lazy start, another walk, then coffee at the hotel at the entrance to the haven. The idea was to meet Roger when he arrived in the car. Just so you know Roger had volunteered to fly into Berlin, train to Zehdenick, pick up the car then drive to Augustenborg via Schwerin for an overnight stop. Alison was very grateful as it meant the two day journey back to pick up the car was no longer necessary. Good old Roger.

He eventually arrived a bit later than we expected (more miscommunication from Brian – this is all being noted). After lunch we set off towards Sonderborg to look at the haven where Annapanna will be kept during the winter. We were very impressed, even me as there was a friendly old black lab to play with. It’s really just a storage and workshop facility so there is no harbour to speak of, but as we don’t really need one that is fine by us. It is in the middle of nowhere but as we will always have the car whilst we’re there it isn’t an issue. See you in September guys.

Then off we went to Sonderborg and the big Fotex supermarket, as of course we had to get more supplies. Then down to the Sonderborg Slot and a walk along the quay before a beer at Bistro Grandmere, the restaurant they went to the other night. The friendly Brummie waiter was there and insisted their drinks were on the house. They have definitely made a friend there. They will return.

1st June 2023 – Augustenborg

We weren’t actually going to to leave today anyway but when Brian woke with a racing and irregular heart beat it was definitely not going to happen. Instead they spent the day sampling the best of Danish healthcare – and very good it was too. Luckily for me I had Roger, so whilst they were being whisked away in an ambulance we went for a walk and play in the park. Thank goodness for Roger!

They eventually came home with enough drugs and a prescription to keep him going until we get home. So back to normal – except it isn’t really as there will be a lot more investigating once he gets home.

2nd June 2023 – Augustenborg to Dyvig Bro

Today we did leave. Not far and staying on Als, just back down the Augustenborg fjord into the Als fjord to Dyvig Bro and the lovely harbour next to the very smart Dyvig Badehotel, where they have booked dinner. Somehow I doubt it will include me.

After lunch Alison went off on a bike ride round the north part of the island whilst I went for a walk and swim with Brian and Roger. Another day, another swim, things are really looking up.

3rd June 2023 – Dyvig Bro to Faborg

Well they did go out to dinner last night and they didn’t take me. What made it worse was that I know my lab neighbour went with her family. I’m really not happy about this current trend.

Today we changed islands leaving Als behind and sailing to Faborg on Fyn, a much larger island to the north east. We are going to visit a few places here, but the first stop was Faborg and it’s town or commercial harbour. We had a perfect mooring on the quay right opposite the entrance to the old town. Well, perfect for them, but with no grass or beach nearby I’m afraid it doesn’t get my vote.

There were some lovely old houses in the old town, including an old belfry and a very interesting museum right next door to us. You can’t miss it as it has an enormous carved tree truck outside.

4th June 2023 – Faborg to Svendborg

Today we travelled further east along the south coast of Fyn, along the Svendborg Sund and into the large town harbour of Svendborg. Nice harbour with plenty of room for us on one of the pontoons, which was ideal for me as there were so many people walking by to talk to! That was it though as there was no green anywhere near the harbour nor any beach to swim on – although if the beaches had as many jelly fish as the harbour I wouldn’t be going near them anyway. I’m getting a bit fed up of this town moorings and I know tomorrow isn’t going to be any different.

Of course we had to go and look at the sights and now Alison has managed to download a decent guide book who knows what we’ll have to go and see next. It wasn’t too bad though as the main area of interest was all round the main square. A couple of churches, some lovely buildings and then it was ice cream time. Always good news.

5th June 2023 – Svendborg to Nyborg

We left Svendborg in the sunshine and sailed into the Sund looking for Delle, the local bottle nosed dolphin. And we found him! Sorry, not near enough for a photo, but he was there! According to the information board in the harbour Delle has lived all his life in Svendborg Sund, but according to an internet article from from 2020 he actually migrated from a Scottish loch and is really called Yoda. Take your pick, but he obviously likes it in Svendborg.

From the Sund we headed up the channel between Fyn and Langland and into what is known as Store – Baelt. We travelled north almost as far as the Store Baelt bridge before hanging a left, or port, as we sea dogs say, into the town harbour at Nyborg. Before I tell you about our mooring and the sights of Nyborg I’ll give you some information about the bridge.

Completed in 1998 the entire length of the structure is 18 kilometres and connects Nyborg on Fyn with Korser on Sjaelland, or Zealand. It consists of 3 bridges and a tunnel but the main or middle part, a suspension bridge known as East Bridge, connects the islands of Sprogo and Halsskov. It’s a beautiful and impressive sight, so much so that later in the day Alison got on her bike to take pictures from right next to

Back to Nyborg. Today was another bank holiday – Danish Constitution Day – the Danish must have as many as us – so when we arrived at the pontoon in the Vesterhavn there was a band playing in the bistro on the quay and a general festive atmosphere. The two public harbours, Vesterhavn annd Osterhavn, have masses of mooring and as all the moorings are for visitors it was virtually empty. We moored on one of two pontoons but as all the moorings are alongside and it would have been no issue if we had had to moor against one of the harbour walls.

We all love Nyborg. There is a lot of history here – you can even download an app to take you on a history tour round the town. There are beautiful buildings, attractive squares , an impressive Slot, or castle (currently closed for renovation) and lots of walks round the ramparts and through the woods. I am not a town dog but this is my sort of town. The restoration of the Slot is part of a bid to get UNESCO recognition. We hope they get it, it would be well deserved. No one recommended Nyborg to us, Alison only wanted to go because it was the site of last week’s Royal Run, but we are recommending it to you. You will not be disappointed, nor will any hound you might have on board.

Here is another recommendation. During our walk around the town we stopped for a quick lunch at Gertz, a Danish bakery on Kongegade. They have tables on the street and a few more down a little alley next to it. Good coffee, great sandwiches and wonderful pasties. Staff are lovely too.

Later in the day, after Alison had come back from her bike trip to the bridge, there was a lot of excitement as a Royal Danish Navy patrol vessel came into the harbour and moored up for the night. Pretty efficient mooring but we didn’t know why they were there.

6th June 2023 – Nyborg to Vejro

Another naval ship turned up this morning. Much smaller and we don’t have a name but it added to the excitement. Then a small group of locals in costume roped off the area around the cannon. They were from the Nyborg Fortress Saluting Guild and it turned out they were going to fire the cannon 3 times as a tribute to those who lost their lives on 3 ships in the 1890’s. There is a statue of a ship sinking nearby which lists the crews, but not the names of the ships and I’m afraid this time google has not helped me.

Separately, we think, the naval crew from Diana are marching through the town. As it’s D Day today we think it is something to do with that, but we weren’t sure and as the officers all went off to the Marina Club we couldn’t ask.

Leaving Nyborg on another beautiful day we headed south back down Store Belt and into Smalandsfarvandet and the tiny private island of Vejro. Deserted by its population in the early noughties it was purchased by a merchant banker in 2005 and developed as a luxury holiday resort. With that knowledge we expected a flashy place, rather like a more upmarket Bagenhop, but what we got was something very different. Not at all flashy, there is a small harbour with good facilities including a cafe and small shop. Scattered through the island are cottages, a hotel, two beautiful orangeries, a tennis court, and a helipad. There are walks around the island, lots of bird life and a hide to watch them and some lovely sandy beaches where I could swim and play ball – as long as I avoided the areas where the oystercatchers were nesting.

They were intending to eat in the restaurant but it hasn’t opened yet for the season as there has been some delay in the kitchen refurbishment. It wasn’t a problem though as the cafe sold Barbie food.

7th June 2023 – Vejro to Vordingborg

Up, out and off to the beach. Alison equipped with camera and binoculars to check out the wildlife. I think I was more of a hindrance than a help but was quite happy playing in the sea as she trained her binoculars on anything she saw moving. And she saw – not me as I was far too busy – deer, hares, oystercatchers, swans, cormorants, eiders and another small wader she couldn’t identify. There are also pheasants on the island which was a bit of a surprise.

Then off we sailed. Eastwards across the Smalandsfarvandet to Vordingborg, on the Island of Sjaelland, or Zealand, and a small friendly marina overlooking the Slot, or at least what is left of it, which isn’t a lot. Of course we had to go and look around the ruins and the remaining tower but as it was on the way into the town it wasn’t too bad. Town was ok, quite buzzing in fact, but lacked the character of Nyborg. Two things of note, a couple of good restaurants, the one in the harbour and Marina Fisk, just up the road. We went to Marina Fisk and yes that included me! The other thing of note is a lovely walk – along the shore line and then back along an old railway tract that has been converted into a foot and cycle path. You may or may not be interested in this, but if you have a dog you should be!

8th June 2023 – Vordingborg to Koge

From Vordingborg we are travelling up the east coast of Zealand to Copenhagen. Our first stop was originally going to be Rodvig, but concerns about a change in the weather meant the plans were changed and we carried on north to Koge instead. Alison did not do her homework on Rodvig and the CA did not help, so by the time we sailed passed some beautiful and impressive cliff faces and a small chapel high on the cliffs we knew we had missed something. The area north of Rodvig is called Stevns Klint and is an area of huge geological importance and therefore a UNESCO world heritage site. There is a footpath along the cliffs from Rodvig to what is called the Stevns Klint experience. We will go there, either on our return to Augustenborg or another time.

So to Koge. We chose the marina, which is a little bit out of town but perfected situated (for me) next to a long stretch of beach and moored alongside on what looks like a fairly new pontoon (just turn to the right , or starboard, as you enter). Up to now it has all been very much out of season quiet, but not here. The harbour wasn’t busy but the beach and sectioned off swimming area most definitely were. I wouldn’t like to be here in high season but now it was fine, with a continual parade of people walking past the boat in the evening on their way to or from the beach. There was lots to bark at and I got plenty of attention. The harbour itself is enormous and very smart with two or maybe three restaurants and a couple of ice cream shops. It definitely has a holiday vibe.

9th June 2023 – – Koge to Dragor

We knew the weather was going to change but the forecast yesterday said late morning, so we hoped we would get to Dragor before the winds came. As it happened the forecast let me down and we woke to force 4-6 winds, which I did not want. It would only be bad until we got into the lee of Sweden, they said, as the winds were easterly. That was true, but it took about 3 hours to get there so I was not a happy dog. I think my respiration rate was about was about a million breaths a minute. But I coped. And once we got to beautiful Dragor I forgot all about it. What is even better is that we are here for two nights at least.

There is very little alongside mooring but we managed to get a place just inside the old harbour on the north pier. We then set off for lunch at the lovely Cafe Dragor before wandering round the cobbled streets of this very pretty little town. Unusually, all the houses are painted the same colour, many are thatched and all are old and quirky. We love it. I thought there lots of ice cream shops in Koge but here there must be dozens!

10th June 2023 – Dragor

The best thing is, we are here for another day and as it’s very windy, I’m very glad! After a leisurely start we wandered into town for coffee on the square before splitting up. The “boys” went shopping and we went for a walk. There is an old fort nearby and whilst the underground building itself is now a restaurant and events venue, you can climb the hill above it for some great views of the the sund and the Oresund bridge. We then continued onto the beach – paddling only as I had to stay on my lead – before wandering back via the massive local sauna (No dogs allowed, which doesn’t bother me at all. Why would I want a sauna).

Later on Alison went to the Dragor museum which gave a a history of the the town and how it had developed from herring fishing to maritime and salvaging and piloting. It then became a ferry terminal for the crossing to Sweden before the ferries stopped after the Oresund bridge opened in 2000. It is now a tourist destination with two pleasure boat harbors (although there remains a fishing harbor too) and a perfectly preserved old town.

Alison then cycled out to another beach area to find Cafe Sylten, which had been recommended for its excellent brunch (she thinks Copenhagen residents are very big on brunch). Obviously it wasn’t brunch time but the cafe is in a great spot overlooking the Sund – which today was full of kite surfers making the most of the wind. There is a footpath that runs near the beach all the way to the fort and there are even dog off lead areas along it. Perfect. I love this place.

11th June 2023 – Dragor to Copenhagen

Excitement this morning, we were inspected by the Danish police! Apparently Denmark don’t have a separate border force so the police do all the random checks on foreigners and as were probably the only non EU boat in the harbour it wasn’t surprising that they picked on us! They checked all our passports (including mine and laughed at the fact it was Dutch) and scanned them to check they were in the 90 days (except mine of course), the ships papers, insurance etc and then toured the boat to ensure we weren’t people smuggling! All ok thankfully so then they let us go with a smile and a bit of advice about where we could moor in Copenhagen.

Then off we sailed, up the Sund to the capital city, Copenhagen, our home for the next few days. It was still windy, but we were fairly well protected so the journey was ok, not good, but ok. The idea was to get settled early, have lunch, then go off sightseeing in the afternoon. We did do all that but not before a lot of messing about. Even though the nice policemen thought we were too big for Christianahavn and recommended Amaliehavn instead, the Bible that is the CA said Christiana was best, so of course we had to try there. Except we couldn’t find the entrance! We then faffed around for what seemed like ages before mooring up in a perfect vacant spot in Nyhavn whilst Alison got on her bike to suss things out. The conclusion: We were big for Christiana and it was full anyway. Amaliehavn would be perfect if we could get on the pontoon, which on a sunny Sunday was full of little boats – but Nyhavn is beautiful and once I’d remembered how to use my ramp, absolutely fine as long as you don’t mind being looked at like an animals in a zoo. This of course means I get lots of attention, so it’s all good to me. So there we stayed, in the spot just made for Annapanna.

Sightseeing, my favourite occupation. There is going to be lots of it over the next few days. Today we walked along the Sund, past the Amaliehavn and it’s garden, which is currently being renovated and I suspect will become a dog free zone, the Opera House, the Royal Yacht moored across the water, the Gefion Fountain, the Kastellet, or Fort, to Copenhagen’s famous landmark, the Statue of the Little Mermaid. Then it was back by the Amalienborg Palace where I barked at the guards in their bearskins. I don’t like bearskins.

12th June 2023 – Copenhagen

Even though the pontoon in Amaliehavn (technically Ofeliaplad) was now vacant we decided we liked the buzz of Nyhavn so no one wanted to move. In fact it was the other way round as an enormous boat from Amalie moved in with us, after we’d shifted up a bit to make room.
More sightseeing of course but first we all wandered over the new (2016) bridge to Christianahavn for a walk along its banks. It’s not full today but there is very limited space and really not ideal for us, however nice and chilled it is. We had coffee and bought lunch at the great outdoor street food market just over the bridge before heading back to Nyhavn to drop me off.
I was excused the afternoon outing as no dogs are allowed in Trivoli Gardens, a funfair/garden type place and one of Copenhagen’s most famous sights. Last time they were in Copenhagen it was out of season so it was closed and Roger hadn’t been since he was a teenager, and that was a very long time ago! Very importantly it was also where Richard proposed to Nora 30 odd years ago.
I was left again in the evening as they went across the havn to 71 Nyhavn, the hotel they stayed in in 2016. Dinner was at the the restaurant, Rosemarino and a special evening as it was Roger’s last night. Oh I am going to miss him so much. So is Brian, as I believe he is a very good deckhand.

13th June 2023 – Copenhagen

The 13th, unlucky for some, or me as my best friend Roger flew home this morning. Would you believe he then sent us a picture of a black lab pup belonging to his brother. I am not impressed. Forgotten me already Roger?

After they left Trivoli yesterday Alison walked back separately via Christianborg palace and when she was passing couldn’t help but smell the horses. Investigating, she found the Royal stables and was told they had finished for the day but would be marching to the Amalienborg Palace at 12 tomorrow. So off we went to watch them leave. It turned out this was a bit of a practice for the very young riders doing their national service with the army and no one seemed to know what route they were taking or even what time they were leaving! They were all very friendly though and I got lots of attention. Eventually we determined that they were leaving at 1pm, marching to the Fort then back to Amalienborg. With that we left them and headed on to beautiful Rosenborg Castle and the King’s Garden, where we knew I was allowed. Then it was on again to the Fort where we had lunch in the square near the Gefion Fountain. It is another food market and very smart. The whole thing is called Seaside food and bar and there must be at least a dozen different places to eat inside the very airy building. Try it.

Then they arrived, a bit of trumpeting and drumming before heading off to Amalienborg with us in tow. Hot work but nice to see.

14th June 2023 – Copenhagen

Another hot day and yet more sightseeing.. This time it was back to the Amalienborg for the changing of the guard. We intended to walk through King’s Square but it was cordoned off and full of police. They couldn’t tell us what was happening at the time but we later heard that a man was running riot in the square.

Then I got a break as Brian had had enough and so Alison cycled off to the Botanical gardens. Unfortunately a large section of it was closed for renovations and the rhododendrons were past their best – and also subject to a replant as many had died off – but it was still very peaceful around the lake and rockeries.

Out for dinner (without me) to Hummer, the seafood restaurant opposite. Very good and very sociable as they met a lovely Australian couple, Nicole and Ian, who came back to the boat afterwards for drinks – and to meet me of course. Their son is about to start at business school here so they wanted to check the city out. I think they like it. Nicole sent some pictures of their dinner, so unusually I have included them here. Very nice to meet you both and hope our paths cross again.

15th June 2023 – Copenhagen to Helsingor

Move day. After 4 days in Copenhagen it was time to move. Not too far as we have to be back in Dragor on Tuesday to pick up Suesi and Martin, so we are going up and down the Oresund for a few days, calling into Malmo in Sweden on our way back.

But before we set off we had yet another trip to Amalienborg, this time for the formal welcome of the King and Queen of Norway who are visiting Denmark for a few days. This is what our friendly horse guard students had been practising for and all 50 of them performed brilliantly during the short ceremony. We did catch a glimpse of the King and Queen, with the Queen of Denmark, driving past in their cars and then spied the Norwegian Royal Yacht on our way out of the city. Apparently both the Danish and Norwegian yachts are sailing to Aarhus tonight, which means they will go past Helsingor – so we may see them!

Helsingor, or Elsinore as it is pronounced, is situated at the narrowest part of the Oresund with only 3 nautical miles between Denmark and Sweden. There is definitely a lot of coming and going between countries as the ferries plough a constant course between Helsingor and Helsingborg every day, all day. It is known for its castle, Kronborg, which is famous as Hamlet’s Castle. No one seems to be quite sure why Shakespeare chose Kronborg as the Prince of Denmark’s castle as they are sure he never came here, but he did and it is a big thing locally. The ferries are called Hamlet, shops are called Hamlet and Shakespeare plays are performed in the castle grounds.

All this, whilst probably of interest to you, is not what makes a place for me. But after 4 days in Copenhagen coming here was like going to heaven. We moored in the old harbour, right next door to the castle and overlooking the beautiful and very modern Culture Yard. All this was right next to lots and lots of open space – I would say greenery but the lack of rain means it is all very brown at the moment – AND a beach. I so needed this. Did I mention I was in heaven? What is even better is we are staying for 2 nights so they can go round the castle and the maritime museum in the old dry dock.

In the evening Alison went to watch a drama in front of the Culture Yard. After walking through the old parts of the town blindfolded and chained, 5 witches from the town were burnt at the the stake. Coming from Lancashire, home of many witches, she was particularly interested in the story. The drama was all about pardoning and apologising to these women, who clearly were not witches, but unlike their Lancashire counterparts it has been little known in Denmark until recently.

16th June 2023 – Helsingor

I had to wait a long time for my play and swim as they went round both the castle and then the Maritime Museum. I did get a walk around the castle walls and lunch at the great street kitchen in a warehouse in the harbour, but it wasn’t my time until much later in the day. It was worth the wait though, especially as there wasn’t another soul on the beach.

We all love it here and thoroughly recommend it. There is so much to see and do, the town has some pretty streets and lots of history, there are independent and interesting shops and even great transport links to Copenhagen if you don’t want to stay in the city.

17th June 2023 – Helsingor to Rungsted

Before continuing I need to tell you about a catastrophe. Alison’s old IPAD pro, her faithful friend for the last 6 years has given up the ghost. Everything is on it – but fortunately most backed up to icloud – but it does mean photos are an issue in the short term. So farewell good friend and in the word’s of Horatio, after Hamlet’s death: “Goodnight, sweet prince; And flights of angels sing thee to they rest.” An apt quote don’t you think from the city of Hamlet’s castle. Bet you didn’t know I studied Shakespeare in my spare time!

A short hop back down the coast of Zealand to Rungsted and Rungstedlund, the summer home of Karen Blixen (pen name Isak Dinesen) the Danish author, who’s most famous books Out of Africa and Babette’s Feast were adapted into Academy Award winning films. Out of Africa is a particular favourite of both Alison’s and Jane’s, with Jane reminding Alison that they saw the film together in Putney when it was released in the 1980’s. So this really is a trip down memory lane. I don’t pretend to understand it, but I’m happy to go along for the ride. Especially as there is no wind!

We arrived at Rungsted and took the last and perfect place on the quay outside the clubhouse. This is a lovely harbour and on a sunny Saturday was buzzing. It wasn’t really surprising as the harbour has wall to wall restaurants and a big holiday vibe. We love it.

Alison wanted to get straight off to the Karen Blixen museum so left us admiring the view in the sunshine. The museum was excellent I’m told. Karen Blixen had left the house in trust, so the areas open to the public were just as she had left them and as she loved flowers there were beautiful arrangements in most of the downstairs rooms. The museum tour starts in a room detailing her life before moving on through the house. The house and hence the museum is not big, many years before the family owned it it used to be an inn, so it was small and beautifully formed. What Alison didn’t know was that Karen Blixen was also an accomplished artist and many of the walls are hung with her artwork, both from Africa and Denmark.

In addition to the museum there is a shop and a restaurant. Alison didn’t eat there but she said the food looked good and there were tables out in the garden. The property used to be a working farm so there is quite a lot of land attached to it. There are lovely walks through the garden and into the woods, up to the place where Karen Blixen was buried. I read somewhere that she wanted to be buried with her dog and her brother had arranged it, but there is no evidence to say that happened. I hope it did.

Then Alison returned and it was my turn. Off we went with the ball looking for somewhere to run. A nice man we passed suggested the beach but I couldn’t get into the sea as there were piles of seaweed on the shore. This nasty seaweed seems to be everywhere and trying to run through is like wading through thick mud. So on we went to the small piers built out into the sea. We have seen this before but usually they have ladders at the end, so no use to me. Not these. This time there were steps down into the water, nice and gentle and even covered in rubber matting. Perfect. Off I went, much to the amusement of the other swimmers on the pier, leaping into the waves for my ball then trotting back up the steps for another throw. It’s strange because I really don’t like the waves when I’m on Annapanna but when I’m in the sea they don’t bother me at all.

In the evening Alison went back to the Karen Blixen museum for a performance by the Royal Danish Ballet Company. It’s called the Royal Summer Ballet and they have been giving free performances throughout Denmark. Tonight’s was the penultimate one with the final performance taking place in Ofelia pads (right next to Amaliehavn) in Copenhagen tomorrow. After a while she returned. The afternoon rain had made the stage too slippery so they had to cancel. Such a shame. About half an hour later the heavens opened, so it was just as well.

17th June 2023 – Rungsted to Malmo

Change of country. Although technically we are going to explore Sweden next year, Brian wanted to say he’d been, so we sailed to the other end of the Oresund Bridge and moored up in Malmo, which is apparently the murder capital of Sweden. I’m not sure that means anything though, as it’s all relative. Perhaps they have been watching too much Wallender.

They made a mistake. For me it was a big mistake! The CA said the nearest harbour to town was Dockan, so we took them at their word and didn’t really explore further. Dockan is a nice harbour but it’s in the middle of the business district so on a Sunday it was totally dead. All the restaurants and cafes were shut which scuppered any plans to eat out locally and it really wasn’t that near to the old town or the Slot. We did walk to the Slot, had lunch in the beautiful garden cafe there and wandered back through some lovely squares in the old town. Then Alison got on her bike to explore. There are 2 other marinas in town, both a bit further south but the one she found, Turbinhamnen, not too far from the Twisted Torso, was in a perfect position right next to an enormous dog walking park! The whole place was buzzing – this was where everyone was on a Sunday afternoon – and there was alongside mooring in the small harbour. This is where we should have been. It wasn’t even any further away from the Slot. Next time….. especially if it’s on a Sunday!

18th June 2023 – Malmo to Dragor

So back to Denmark and Dragor to await the arrival of Suesi and Martin. The journey this time took us under the famous Orisund Bridge which is quite spectacular, especially when the sun is shining.

We are back on our favourite North Pier and are here for a couple of days as they aren’t due until late tomorrow evening and the airport is so close we should be able to see their plane landing. . Nice walk and play on Strandstien after they had finished their many jobs. Much clearing and vacuuming of my hairs which seem to get everywhere. It is their fault, they don’t brush me enough!

20th June 2023 – Dragor

It took a while. There were more jobs and of course – shopping – before we eventually set off on my promised walk. The original plan was to go to Cafe Sylten for lunch, but it doesn’t open until Thursday so we went after lunch instead. Lots of running free and splashing around in the sea. My ideal walk.

Suesi and Martin arrived about 11pm. We even watched their plane come in from the stern deck – that’s how near we were to the airport! Games time is looming. I just hope they don’t shout too much.

21st June 2023 – Dragor to Rodvig

Too windy today for me. Yes, the stabilisers helped but I still didn’t like it. I also got very hot in my life jacket so the combination of the two resulted in a lot of very fast breathing! I think they were beginning to get worried, but as usual I was 100% OK as soon as we were in sight of the harbour.

We are now beginning our slow way back to Augustenborg and our first stop is the harbour we missed on the way to Copenhagen. Unusually, Rodvig Havn was full on its alongside mooring so we turned to port instead and moored up in the fishing harbour. As this was right next door it didn’t really make much difference, it just wasn’t quite as pretty. Then we were off. A hot clifftop walk to the Stevns Klint Experience museum. Let me tell you about Stevns Klint. Stevns Klint is a 15 km long and 41 metre high, fossil rich limestone cliff that is such an important geological site that it was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014. Visible within the layers of the cliff is what is known as a fish layer and this fossil rich strata provides exceptional evidence of the impact of a meteorite which crashed in Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula almost 67 million years ago, wiping out over 50 per cent of all life on earth. It is widely believed that this caused the end of the Age of Dinosaurs.

22nd June 2023 – Rodvig to Stege

Before leaving they had another Museum to visit. This time without me, thankfully. I was quite happy as I got a great play in the sea at the beautiful sandy beach right next to the harbour.

The Cold War Museum, Stevnsfort, was built as a secret piece of defence for Denmark and NATO if war broke out between east and west. The Stevns Peninsula would be on the frontline of any cold war and so for 40 years it was staffed 24/7, ready for action at any time. The site consists of a ground level exhibition including HAWK missiles, launchers, radar and a double barrelled gun turret taken from a German war ship, and a subterranean fortress, 18 metres below ground. The fortress, built into the limestone rocks, was designed to withstand nuclear and chemical attacks and consisted of 1.7 kms of tunnels and rooms. In the event of a nuclear attack it could house several hundred soldiers for many weeks. Interestingly though, in this high tech, ultra secure fortress, no one thought about putting in any cooking or toilet facilities!

Then we were off, to the island of Mon and Stege, on its west coast. We were all disappointed with Stege. We did get an alongside mooring, but it was right next to a busy road, hardly a rural idyll. I suppose the town did have some nice streets but we have already been incredibly spoilt, so we weren’t impressed. Even though it did have a nice little church and we didn’t see the remains of the Slot, I don’t think will be rushing back.

23rd June 2023 – Stege to Vejro

There was a change of plan today. Originally we were going to go to Femo, another island in the Smalandsfarvandet just south of Vejro. We had heard it was beautiful but we needed a restaurant and as it was midsummer’s day, somewhere it was being celebrated. Once we had heard there was a barbeque, bonfire and fire show at Vejro we decided to head back there instead.

We had an early start as we thought Vejro would be busy, so when we got there we had a choice of moorings and headed back to the same place we moored last time. Suesi and Martin were impressed. So was I. I love this place. Lovely walk round part of the island, lots of play in the sea and loads of other dogs. At 5pm the celebrations kicked off with a jazz band in the harbour, then an excellent barbeque arranged by the restaurant chef (the restaurant is still closed), followed by the ritual lighting of the bonfire and a fire show – which was two people setting fire to themselves. We were told the bonfire is something to do with witches but nobody was really sure, but the fire show artistes said theirs was just fun (if you can call setting fire to yourself fun. I don’t and I didn’t like it). Then after I’d gone back to the boat with Brian the others played cornhole, which consists of throwing beanbags into a hole and table football, which I’m told got a bit competitive!

24th June 2023 – Vejro to Bagenkop

The weather is causing a change of plan as Monday is going to be stormy. Unfortunately for me this means longer days at sea so we can get back to the shelter Sonderborg on Sunday night. It also means that instead of heading to new territory and Troense as planned, we carried on to Bagenkop, one of our first ports of call in Denmark and home of the Exmoor ponies.

So a longer journey and most of it a bit rough, so there was lots of heavy breathing on my part and maybe with some of the others too, but I wouldn’t know as I kept my head down and eyes shut. Then it was back in Legoland, or Bagenkop and a good mooring against the harbour wall.

Not too much walking this time as they had other jobs to do, but I did get a swim later. Good swim chase with another dog – he was bigger than me but I still beat him to the ball every time. Just call me Rebecca Adlington.

25th June 2023 – Bagenkop to Sonderborg

A beautiful still, warm and sunny morning for my constitutional walk behind the beach. There were a few people swimming off the pier so Alison decided she should join them – without me! The pier steps at Bagenkop are too steep for me and anyway I’m not allowed on that part of the beach. Plus, it was very clear that if you wanted to swim in the early morning you had to over 60 and I’m way, way younger than that!

The calm day continued and we had a wonderful smooth journey to Sonderborg. They love Sonderborg and I think Suesi and Martin do now too. I do like it but I can never get on the beach, which is so frustrating! It is a blue flag one (like Bagenkop) and dogs are allowed on some of it, we think, but the information is really not clear. Anyway it was very busy so I might have caused a riot.

On the quay we called in to say hello to Zen, our friend at Bistro Grand Mere and get an ice cream from the wonderful Iskonditoriet. Then Suesi and Marin went round the Slot, or castle, museum. Excellent, they said.

Dinner at Bistro Grand Mere, without me of course, even though they were outside. This is becoming a habit, they are even going to take Mags next week!

26th June 2023 – Sonderborg to Augustenborg

So back to base. It was very windy and it did rain but the predicted storm didn’t materialise. The sun came out in the afternoon so Suesi and Alison got on their bikes and headed off into the countryside, past fields of perfect and evenly sized Christmas trees to Fynshav, on the east coast of the island. Rather than cycle back they called for a lift and Brian and Martin set off to meet them and have a drink in the harbour. Except the only harbour had a closed bar and there was no seaside prom or front as expected. Shame. Whilst they were away on the bikes Brian, Martin and I walked to the Slot so I could play in the water off the small beach. Much better than a bike ride to nowhere!

27th June 2023 – Augustenborg

Changeover day. Mags flew in this evening on the flight Martin and Suesi then flew home on. As the airport was in Billund, about 90 miles away, and Legoland is also in Billund, they decided months ago they would combine the trip with an outing to the famous site. So, what do I think of Legoland? Apart from the attention I got from other people, not much I’m afraid. But of course that’s a canine view which is totally at odds with a human view. They thought it was amazing and being the grown up kids that they are, loved the rides, the shows and the brilliant miniature countries it is most famous for. They said they really needed to borrow some children to get the most out of it, but to me it looked like they were managing just fine!

Then we drove to the airport and said goodbye to Suesi and Martin before wandering into the town to check out the Legoland hotel and Lego House. Then it was my turn, so we had a lovely walk along the Sculpture trail and back through the woods, before returning to the airport to pick Mags up.

28th June 2023 – Augustenborg to Dyvig

Shopping, of course. So off they went to Fotex in Sonderborg before calling at Kislings on Perlegade for coffee and Danish pastries in the garden. This is a great little place with a lovely garden at the back – they tell me. Maybe I’ll get to go when we return on Sunday then I can see for myself.

We are heading north on this trip but as we don’t actually have very long we are going to potter rather than cover great distances, and that is definitely ok with me. So today it was just a couple of hours up to Dyvig Havn and the Dyvig Badehotel, where they had dinner….. again ….

Our mooring this time is right next to the beach, on the first pontoon after the barbeque area. The weather isn’t too great so no one is swimming – except me! Literally, end of pontoon, down the steps, into the water. Perfect!

29th June 2023 – Dyvig to Aabenraa

More changes of plan as the weather forecast is not good and they are worried about getting marooned somewhere and missing our ferry home next week. There was a discussion about staying in Dyvig another night – I had all my pads and claws crossed – by sadly they decided to move on. Not to Bago as originally planned but west to Aabenraa instead. This means we can get back to Sonderborg a day early and sit out the high winds and thus nasty waves in the protection of the sund. Mags is definitely not bothered as she doesn’t do rough – and nor do I for that matter.

A couple of hours across the southern end of Lille Belt, past dolphins playing in the water, into Aabenraa Sejl Club and a brand new jetty overlooking the sea. We thought this might be the time we had to moor bow to, but no, the new jetty was free and the harbourmaster said it was deep enough, so here we are. The beach is next door and although it is a lovely, sandy, blue flag one, the area beyond the slipway is not part of the dog free zone and that was all I needed.

You may remember me mentioning Aabenraa before as this is the town where Brian was taken to hospital a month ago. They didn’t see much then, so it is quite nice to return and explore it under rather different circumstances. Of course we had to check out the Slot, watermill and old town. Pretty town, some interesting shops and loads of cafes and bars. We are quite happy here. There is even a MacMedic, which is hospital for Apple products, so Alison’s IPAD has gone in for treatment. Let’s hope it is as successful as Brian’s.

30th June 2023 – Aabenraa to Sonderborg

MacMedic needed the morning to diagnose and hopefully treat Alison’s IPAD, so we had a lazy start. Well some of us did (Alison decided to go for a run along the beach). Then I couldn’t leave without another swim, especially as our new friend from yesterday was at the beach with his rescue Jack Russell. I don’t suppose there are too many Danish West Ham supporters, so as soon as he knew we were English he just wanted to talk. All this was good for me as he was a very good thrower, much better than Alison and Mags, so I had my work cut out getting the ball back. Then he decided to show off his kicking skills – and lets just say I don’t think West Ham have missed an opportunity! Alison then cycled off to pick up her IPAD. Bad news, MacMedic have been unable to resuscitate and it all looks a bit terminal, which means I still can’t add pictures to the blog. It will happen, but not yet.

Then off we sailed, back to Sonderborg and our favourite spot under the hotel. We then spied another Linssen and looking closer it was Popeye. Popeye is the Variotop 480 belonging to the author of Honden aan Boord, which is a Facebook page, blog and book. Impressive. I think my predecessor, Benson, featured in the book and I might have a picture somewhere on the blog, but until now I had never met any of Popeye’s crew. I have now. The most important member is Olijfje, or in English, Olive Oil, Trudie and Jan’s friendly and very accommodating Stabij, or Stabyhoun. I’ve since read that her breed comes from Friesland and they are considered national treasures. I am honoured Olijfje and apologise for trying to pinch your favourite toy! We went for drinks on Popeye and the reason I mention the Linssen model is because I liked it very much! I was instantly at home going up and down the steps, which are wider and more gentle than Annapanna’s and loved the upper deck where Olijfje can lounge on the sofa whilst keeping an eye on her crew. She also has a better gangplank than my plastic model. It was fine when I was a pup but now I think we need to upgrade. Brian says he can make one….. and I’ll keep him to that!

1st July 2023 – Sonderborg

It was supposed to be wet all day today but as it was only a slight drizzle and little wind we decided we would go for a walk. We being Alison, Mags and me. Brian had to go off to the Chandlery so was excused. We crossed the bridge and using Alison’s footpath app found a lovely cliff path which then turned inland to Dybbol Banke where there is an old wind or flour mill, a history centre and the remains of old fortifications within what is known as Redoubts. The whole area became a National Park in 1936. We didn’t go round the history centre, but I think they might go back another time. The centre states it is not a museum, but a sensory experience where you go on a journey of exploration reliving the bloody battle of 1864. Not sure it’s for me even though they told us dogs were allowed (at least into reception).

Then I was left home alone twice, first whilst they went round the Slot museum and then again when they went to dinner at Bistro Grand Mere. Another great night apparently. Thankyou Zen, you are a star.

2nd July 2023 – Sonderborg

We have spent so much time in this town over the last couple of months it’s beginning to feel like home. So if we have to hunker down and sit out the weather it’s a good place to do it. Today it rained, blew 40+ kph winds, rained some more and blew some more. We did manage to get out for a walk in between showers and risked the trees walking through the woods down to the yacht haven. Beyond the haven is another beach and the signs clearly show it is outside the blue flag area, which meant I could go on it. As you know the waves don’t bother me but they were concerned about undertow, so I wasn’t allowed to go very far out. It wasn’t an issue, but I think sometimes they forget that I’m an olympic level swimmer.

In the evening we returned the invitation of drinks and Olijfje, Trudie, Jan came on board. Olijfje dug out my nylabone, so learning from Willow I took it straight back. I know, I know, it wasn’t very fair especially as I had pinched her toys the other evening. They offered her teddy instead and she seemed quite happy with that. Whilst we were all chatting on board a dolphin swam past. Wasn’t that cool.

3rd July 2023 – Sonderborg to Augustenborg

The wind wasn’t too bad this morning so we took the opportunity of setting off early so we’d arrive in Augustenborg before it started to blow up again. We just about made it but didn’t miss the rain, so it was lashing down as we tried to moor up! The rest of the day was taken up with visiting a new vet, cleaning and packing.
After much research and a lot of confusion about parking (we can’t go in a multistory because of the set top box) we booked the Atlantic Grand Hotel in Bremen for tomorrow night and to make sure we get there early enough to explore the city, lots of prep work had to be done today. For me this just means two boring days instead of one, but I am looking forward to staying in a hotel though.

4th July 2023 – Augustenborg to Bremen

Amazingly we did get off more or less on time – before we had to turn back because Brian had forgotten his shaver! We still got there in plenty of time though and as the hotel was less than a two minute walk to the main square and the Rathuis, which is a UNESCO site, it all worked out very well.

We like Bremen and the Hotel Atlantic Grand very much. As seems to be standard in dog friendly German hotels I got a bed, some treats, a mat and bowls – All for a dog much smaller than me! I don’t understand why they think only handbag dogs stay in hotels, so sadly they were all returned unused at the end of our stay. Maybe that’s why they always look so new!

We had a good circular walk round the city. Along the River Weser promenade down to the medieval area called the Schnoor, through the Snoor and back via the Alstadt to the Market Square, Rathuis and the statue, Bremen Roland, which are the two UNESCO sites in the city. Roland was considered to be a protector of the city and the statue shows him with his sword unsheathed ready to fight off any unwanted guests.

There are plenty of other lovely buildings in the square and around the old town and at the side of the Rathuis is another famous statue, Town Musicians of Bremen. This statue is of four animals, one on top of another, a donkey, dog, cat and rooster, who in a Grimms fairy tale left their home to find a better life as musicians in Bremen. Although they never actually got as far as Bremen in the story, it did have a happy ever after ending and the town likes to trade on the link – so you can buy any number of tourist momentos of the animals.

After a drink in the square we wandered back to the hotel via the beautiful Böttcherstraße and Glockenspiel house, where between the peaks of two facades is a Glockenspiel, whose 30 bells chime three times a day. Had we only known that earlier we would have made sure we heard the 6pm chime, but we didn’t, so we missed it. It won’t chime again until midday tomorrow and we’ll have left by then – but I think we might stop off here again on our way home, so next time….

I was left to relax in my hotel rooms in the evening whilst they went back to the market square and the Rathskeller Restaurant, in the cellars of the Rathuis. Very traditional, very friendly, I’m told.

5th July 2023 – Bremen to Europort

Bremen is known as a green city and around the old town, on the other side of the Am Wall is the old moat in a lovely green park. Much better for me than sightseeing! There were even plenty of dogs off lead. Then it was back to the square and what has to be one of the prettiest Costa Coffee Shop’s in Europe.

Then we were off, back on the motorway, into the Netherlands and on to Pride of Rotterdam and our dog friendly cabin. That was me and Brian, Mags and Alison were elsewhere. Fine by me as it meant I had a bed to myself!

That concludes this section of the blog. We’re back in August so tune in then for more Baltic adventures of a canine kind.