Prologue

A couple of days later than originally planned we are setting off for another month in Denmark. More sea sailing, more swimming (I hope) and – fingers crossed – not too much wind. This time it’s just us. No wall to wall visitors as they’re not sure how much we will be able to do. End of season in Denmark is really the end of August, so we’ll see. They have had a pretty tough time of it in August, too much wind and even a storm, so hopefully they will be due an Indian summer in September. I really, really hope so, a storm is not something I want to encounter.

At least on Annapanna there is no chance of having to share my bed with anyone else. Crumpet came to stay again the other week and the cheeky girl just climbed into bed with me. Not funny, there just isn’t room for two!

August 23rd 2023 – Whalley to Hull

Just us, no set top box and no fridge. All a bit of a change but it didn’t give me any more room to stretch out and I haven’t yet worked out why. Doggy cabin on the ferry – all 3 of us this time which can be a bit of a squash. Do you know that no one has actually asked me whether I prefer the kennel or the cabin, they just assume the cabin, but I’m not sure…..

August 24th 2023 – Europort to Lubeck

Another Germany city to explore. This time it’s Lubeck, north east of Hamburg in Schleswig-Holstein and city of the seven spires. It was a long trip but means we only have a couple of hours to travel tomorrow, which can only be a good thing. Lubeck is famous for two things; as a major Hanseatic league city with a beautifully preserved Altstadt, or old town, it is the most extensive UNESCO world heritage site in Germany; and as world producer of marzipan – that horrible stuff you can cover Christmas cakes with. I’m only saying it’s horrible because that’s what Alison says. I haven’t actually tasted it!

We arrived at the Atlantic Hotel, right in the middle of the old town, in time to have a wander around the beautiful streets, exploring the many churches, alleys and secret courtyards the city is famous for. The place was buzzing with people, the restaurants and bars lining the waterfront were packed and the gardens around Holsten Gate busy with tourists taking photos of this famous landmark. I know, this is sightseeing, not my favourite pastime, but it had one advantage, on a beautiful warm evening I could go out for dinner with them!

August 25th 2023 – Lubeck to Augustenborg

Up early and breakfast before I went out. Very unusual, so something was afoot. More sightseeing was the answer, Alison and me. Through the park on the other side of the canal all the way round to the northern section of the old town and a wander back through the old streets, more hidden courtyards and then the Rathuis and other beautiful buildings in the main square. Then back for breakfast (theirs not mine) and out again to the square with Brian and a visit to Niederegger Marzipan cafe and museum. Alison bought some marzipan – why when she says she hates it?

Then we were off and back to Augustenborg and Annapanna via our winter storage harbour near Sonderborg. Quick unload – amazingly – and check for any storm damage before the necessary trip to the local shop.

August 26th 2023 – Augustenborg to Dyvig Bro

A short walk round the woods – very boring with far too many stops to pick blackberries – then a trip to Fotex in Sonderborg to stock up before a short 2 hour hop up to one of my favourite places, Dyvig Bro. It is the last weekend of the German holidays (we think the Danish have already finished theirs) so the harbour was busy, but luckily for us we got the last place on the outer jetty. Maybe not so lucky for our neighbour, a rather beautiful, but definitely precious, pedigree cat.

Then it was swim time. Not off the beach as last time but round the other side of the inlet near the cafe and art shop, which disappointingly was closed – again. Alison then planned to take her bike out but found the chain had completed rusted solid and as the lube, as they call it, was virtually finished, that was that! We are now looking for a bike shop for either new lube or a new chain.

This time they decided not to eat in the hotel, which was probably just as well as there was a big wedding on, and barbecued instead. Much more sociable if you ask me. We then had a lovely sunset walk up the road above the inlet and down to the yacht haven on the other side. It was beautiful but you’ll have to take my word for it as we didn’t have a camera or phone with us to record the moment.

August 27th 2023 – Dyvig Bro to Haderslav

Decisions, decisions. Should we go to Bago as originally planned, make it a long day and head to Middelfart or try somewhere different and sail to Haderslav. In the end Haderslav won as the CA said that the 7 mile fjord down to the town is one of the most beautiful in Denmark. It is certainly beautiful, even in the driving rain! There is a very narrow channel most of the way but it’s all well marked so no panic from the crew. No panic from me either as narrow and fjord equates to slow and no waves.
Most of the mooring at the sail club is in boxes but we had already rung ahead so knew we could go alongside under the new apartments on the town side of the fjord. We were helped into our mooring by a local man who happened to be Welsh. He was a mine of information and importantly told Alison where the nearest bike shop was – and – that it was open on a Sunday. So off we went to the shop, got the lube, then carried on walking to explore the town. Up to the water tower (as we know they are usually in parks), back along footpaths to the historical outside museum and on to the cathedral and centre of town. All very pretty and interesting but without the wow factor that some of the Danish towns have. Do we recommend the trip? Yes, we think so, even just for the journey. There is also a lot of development going on in the harbour area and when it’s finished it should be very attractive. The prom is already traffic free and beautifully lit.

August 28th 2023 – Haderslav to Bago

More decisions, more changes. As the weather forecast is good for the next day or two Alison decided that we should go to Bago now rather than on our return trip. As I was promised walks and a beach I was very happy with that plan – so a short two hour hop brought us to this lovely, quiet, walking and cycling haven.

We got a perfect mooring in the tiny harbour and then I was straight off and onto the beach for a swim, walk and play. I even got a second walk a bit later as Brian tested his broken foot and Alison went off on her bike to test her newly lubed chain. All was well with both, even after Alison had to push her bike through mounds of seaweed whilst following one of the many walking/cycling routes on the island.

Bago is a tiny island, with an area of just 2.4 sq miles, it belongs to the Assens municipality on the island of Fyn. There is a small ferry connecting them which runs several times a day and carries a very limited number of cars. This is just as well as there is only one road which runs from the harbour to the village, Bago By, in the centre of the island. According to google it had a population of just 25 in 2015. All this makes it very peaceful and very unspoilt. The harbour shopkeeper is married to a local farmer who, among other things , has a herd of highland cattle. She sells the meat in the harbour shop – which happens to be the only shop on the island. All very self sufficient.

August 29th 2023 – Bago to Midelfart

Another morning walk, this time following the red route through the woods before returning on the road. It might be a tarmac road but as there are no cars on the island I only have to watch out for the odd tractor.

Then we were off again, further north up Little Belt to Middelfart and Nyhavn 2 on Michael and Connie’s recommendation. We saw porpoises again today and this time we managed to get a photo. A bit distant but still proof we’ve seen them. In the haven we got a perfect alongside mooring overlooking both bridges next to some massive speed boats. We’re in a multimillion pound corner here! Actually it is slightly worrying as the town is preparing for a very big climate change convention – Klimt Folke Modet – right in the harbour and along the promenade. If I was a climate change activist in a place like this I would certainly draw attention to these multimillion euro gas guzzlers lying in the harbour!

A walk along the prom to the old harbour then back via the attractive church and pretty streets of the old town before a downpour drove us into a coffee shop on the high street. No more ball playing for me today but I’m hopeful for tomorrow. They are going to go to the ceramics museum and I see that it is in a very green area. Legs and pads crossed.

Then I was left home alone whilst they went out for dinner as Mast. The restaurant is in the same building as the cultural centre, perfectly positioned between Nyhavns 1 and 2 with amazing views of the bridges and Little Belt. That is the best thing about it. They read the reviews but chose to ignore them. More fool them. I’m handing over to Alison who is going to review the restaurant for my readers. I would advise you to read and take note.

Perfect situation, wonderful views, contemporary design. The place has a lot going for it, or should have, but it is all style and no substance. There is a 5 course tasting menu, that in itself is pretentious, but could be good value and a very limited a la carte. Brian wanted oysters so went for the al a carte, but I went for the 5 courser as weirdly it was cheaper to do this than to just pick 2 dishes from it. The oysters came. Funny little shrivelled up things with no dressing (he asked for shallot and vinegar). When queried the waiter said it was all they had and he thought they’d be ok! They weren’t and were sent away. My first course was mackerel. Bearing in mind that further down the quay they were pulling out mackerel by the bucketload, the potential was massive. What I got was a bit of smoked mackerel on luke warm mash! I won’t go into detail on every course but other than a well cooked (as in barely cooked) scallop there was little to recommend it. Brian had mussels, you would think they could manage those, but no, the sauce was very bland. My main course was a delicate white fish – ok, nothing actually wrong with it – but the chef chose to serve it with a great big piece of barely grilled pepper. Why? Eat the pepper and you might as well forget the fish. Three times during the meal the waiter responded with a “it’s all we’ve got” and I honestly don’t think he had any idea of the difference. As I don’t think the chef did either, there is little hope for the rest of the staff.

August 30th 2023 – Middelfart

Despite the restaurant disappointment yesterday we really like this place, so when we had a change of plan it wasn’t a problem to anyone. Except perhaps to Brian, who isn’t well and the reason for the change of plan. I’m sure he’d prefer not to be ill. Anyway, we are going to stay another day and do the ceramics museum tomorrow. So today Alison and I went back along to the old harbour then on to the woodland path towards the Lystbadehavn and the base of the Lille Baelt Bridge. We met some bridge walkers all togged up ready for their high level thrill and walked to the middle of the bridge (on the footpath – you won’t get me on the top) for a good view of the fjord. We then returned through the woods and onto the Ceramics museum cafe, picked up the leaflet on the ceramic walking route and wandered back through town to check on Brian.

August 31st 2023 – Midelfart

All a bit better today so we wandered down Havnegade checking out the activities and stalls of the Climate Change event before heading to the Ceramics museum cafe. They took it in turns to stay with me whilst they went round the museum, which didn’t appear to look very big. Appearances can be deceptive though and in this case they definitely were. The museum extends all the way to the cafe under the garden – two beautiful big rooms with videos and exhibits demonstrating the different ceramic processes and finishes.

After lunch we went our separate ways. Brian back to town and Alison and I round the deer park peninsula, Hindsgavl. Mostly along the coast but also in the woods, it was heaven. They were plenty of places to have a dip and with nobody around I could spend a lot of time off lead. They only disappointment – we didn’t see any deer. We did explore the grounds of a beautiful chateau hotel though, it’s called Hindsgavl Slot if you’re interested in somewhere rural to stay. Then it was back into town via a town gate – the only one I think.

September 1st 2023 – Middelfart to Juelsminde

New month, new harbour. We set off on a course for Bogense on route to Samso, but as our weather chart said the winds on the islands were going to be high for the next few days we have changed direction from planned and now intend to do our circuit to Arhus clockwise rather than anti-clockwise.

So tonight we are in the delightful old harbour in Juelsminde. We are right on the quay so I have plenty to keep me occupied. It seems to be a locals favourite, especially when the weather is good – And it is good. We are in for an Indian summer a local said when we arrived. With temperatures in the low 20’s it is just perfect for me – as long as I get my swim.

The harbour is buzzing. There are restaurants, a fish shop and smokery, bars, an ice cream parlour and chandlery all around the harbour, a nice little town centre and a very smart campsite. A very secure campsite too as it took ages to find our way out after we’d wandered in for a nosey around!

Best of all there were plenty of swim opportunities for me without disturbing any humans or getting told off for not being on a lead. The beach is divided into lots of coves so it was easy to find an empty one and race into the water. We walked all the way down one side of the little peninsula running from cove to cove then over a brilliant man made rock path to walk back on the other side. Perfect day. I was pretty exhausted by evening so quite happy to let them go to Noir, the brasserie in the harbour, on their own. No bad review this time. They had fish and chips – it is Friday and the brasserie is under the same ownership as the smokery so fish is their specialty. I think they own the ice cream parlour too.

September 2nd 2023 – Juelsminde to Hou

Just for a moment I thought we were going to stay in Juelsminde so I could spend all day playing on the beach with my new ball ( I somehow managed to bury my old one yesterday than couldn’t find it again). But no such luck. No problem though as a couple of hours or so north we arrived in Hou (used to be called Hov). We decided to moor on the quay next to the fuel station rather than out on the wall. Not so pretty maybe but very convenient for the shop, ice cream parlour and most importantly, the coastal walk. This is a wheelchair access walk winding along the coast between sandy beaches and lovely holiday homes in the trees. It’s not very long, about a kilometre or so, but you can continue along the coast to Holken strand if you wish. For me it gave access onto empty beaches and seaweed free sea. With my new ball I was very happy.

Alison has another technological problem but this time with her phone rather than her iPad. This causes several problems – lack of hot spot data, camera and most importantly of all, NO what’s app! That’s pretty much a disaster when so much of her social life is carried our via what’s app! Anyway, the result of this is that there are no pictures of the haven and our mooring. Apologies. The harbour is a bit of a building site though but don’t let it put you off. Once the new houses along the harbour are built and the proposed promenade completed, it will be very attractive – and there is lots of alongside space on the pontoon just inside the harbour entrance.

September 3rd 2023 – Hou to Aarhus

Not sure what has happened to the Indian summer but this morning we woke to cloudy skies. It even rained briefly. Weather Pro and AccuWeather still insisted it was warm and sunny but they clearly hadn’t looked out of the window! On the plus side it was also supposed to be windy, but it wasn’t. That is a very big plus for me!

We continued on our way north to Denmark’s second city, Aarhus (pronounced Oorhus), which is basically our turnaround point on this trip. We had a choice of two harbours, Marselisborg in the south or Aarhus in the north and we couldn’t decide where to go! So we called into Marselisborg first, a beautiful harbour bustling with restaurants and shops and near to the deerpark and Marselisborg palace, the summer residence of the Queen. We loved the harbour and got a good morning, but sadly it was only available for one night. There were other places that might have been ok but it would have been difficult for me to get on and off, so reluctantly we decided to move on. We arrived in Aarhus harbour with a flotilla of yachts that had just finished the last race of the Sailing Regatta weekend, so it was all action. We missed the IQfoil Nordic championship, which was probably just as well as it was difficult enough weaving between the small yachts – trying to avoid qfoils, effectively flying windsurfers, would be much more difficult.

So here we are, on a great mooring near the yacht centre. The harbour area is wall to wall designer apartments with some amazing designs, such as the iceberg and the Lighthouse. We walked round the promenade to admire them, then explored bassin 7 with its swimming pools, bars and cafes and what look like designer beach huts, all very impressive.

September 4th 2023 – Aarhus

Aarhus is Denmark’s second city, so of course there are sights, so that meant sightseeing. Not my favourite pastime. We also had to find an Apple shop to sort out Alison’s phone and Brian’s iPad, that was also playing up. We walked into town via the harbour promenade checking out any other alongside mooring for future reference. Just so you know, if you happen to go there, between the bros (pontoons) there are alongside spaces. They are pretty long too, especially around where the sail boat club becomes the Motor boat club (bro 2 or 3).

Then on we walked, on and on and on! Into the old town and Latin quarter, onto the Museum of Art (ARoS) and it’s rainbow panorama (which was shut as it was Monday) then to Den Gamle By, the open air historical museum by the botanical gardens. This one was open and was outside so dogs were allowed, it even had real shops and restaurants. The whole place is a historical reconstruction split into different time zones; 1600 -1900, 1900-1927, 1950-1974 and 2000-2014. The largest section is the 1600-1900 where there are beautifully preserved streets and houses. The houses are from different parts of Denmark and all have been painstakingly dismantled and rebuilt within the museum streets. Very impressive.

Finally it was back to the Apple shop where we picked up a new phone and a reset iPad. So communication is now back to normal.

September 5th 2023 – Aarhus to Ebeltoft

City done, or at least for this year, so now we are back in my territory – beach and sea. On another beautiful day with hardly any wind we sailed east to the small and pretty holiday destination of Ebeltoft. Another perfect mooring on a hammerhead in the southern yacht haven. Then it was off to the beach, deserted, even on a beautiful day, so perfect for me. After much playing we headed back to meet Brian, then Alison got on her bike out to do some more exploring and keep the chain working.

A while later we got a call from Alison to say an event in the town square was about to start and to get here as soon as possible. So we did – completely missing my teatime, which I was not happy about – to arrive in time for the ceremony. In Denmark the 5th September is National Flag Day, a relatively new initiative (it started in 2009 so this is the 15th) recognizing and honoring people who have been deployed on a mission abroad. It includes not only the armed forces, but other services such as the police, health service, foreign affairs and emergency management. The main celebration event is in Copenhagen and we’re sure at that ceremony the representation will have been more diverse, but here it was all the old war hero’s, lovely but a shame there weren’t some younger people here to be honored.

September 6th 2023 – Ebeltoft

Another walk along the beach and play in the sea before heading off to the museums, namely the Glass museum and Fregatten Jylland. Alison went to the Glass museum and was quite surprised by what she saw. She was expecting many pieces of modern glass art but she wasn’t expecting the exhibition which covered most of the ground floor of the museum. A Danish/Australian duo called Studio ThinkingHand, who work at the intersection of art and science, had an exhibition called Evolution which explores new perspectives on evolution and considers methods of co-creation with ecosystems, fungi, bacteria etc. They have worked closely with the marine biologists at the Kattegat Centre and travelled to the Arctic, resulting in a massive glass installation called “Deep Time” and a fascinating video of seahorses interacting with glass tubes on the seabed. It is enthralling. Go there if you can.

Then we all moved on to the Frigate Jylland, an original wooden warship built between 1857 -1860. It was the only warship built by the Danish navy that used steam driven engine and sails, a cutting edge design at the time. Considered a safe and stable ship it was a converted into a Royal Yacht for King Christian IX before being recommissioned for various expeditions. Life on board the ship is told through talking videos taken from diaries of actual seaman. It is also great for children as it’s very interactive. It’s not bad for dogs either. We are made to feel very welcome and can go anywhere (although the steps down to the lower levels were a bit steep).

After all that and another wander through the town, I was exhausted and had no desire to go out to dinner with them. They were happy as meant they could eat inside at Restaurant Stockfleth in the harbour. We might be having an Indian summer but it is definitely autumnal at night.

September 7th 2023 – Ebeltoft to Samso

There wasn’t much wind so we were all surprised by the bumpy crosssing. We know some of it was caused by the hourly Samso ferry travelling at high speed, but it couldn’t have been just that. I was not a happy dog. Fortunately once in the lee of the island it calmed down a bit, but I was very happy once we got to the harbour at Marup and moored up on the pontoon. I was even happier when I saw the beach right next to the harbour. It is amazing how quickly I can put bad experiences behind me.

September 8th 2023 – Samso

Two nights here to relax or explore, depending on your leaning. I like to explore as long as it involves running free, a ball and ideally water. I managed all three this morning when we went a walk along the coast before cutting up into woodland and then back along a footpath. Then I was left as they went on a bit of a cycle to the village and shop. We’ve been warned that they is nothing on Edelave, our next island destination.

After lunch Alison got on her bike and explored the northern part of Samso. Right up to the northern point. Amazing views, gorgeous village (Nordby), lovely churches and beautiful and remote fjord area and harbour (Langor). Oh, and amazing ice cream at Underground Mad of Ishus in Nordby.

In the evening the harbour started to fill up. The boats kept coming right up until it was dark. It is Friday and the forecast good for the weekend, so everyone has headed for the islands. Completely different to last night, it is now buzzing and there are so many dogs!

September 9th 2023 – Samso to Juelsminde

The plan was to go to Endelave, another nearby island. Perhaps we should have been alerted by the number of boats pouring into Samso harbour last night and stayed put for another day. But we didn’t. When we arrived at Endelave another boat was leaving and said the harbour was completely full – and it was – jammed packed, multi rafted off, full. Another boat suggested rafting off a large yacht, but that yacht was already rafted off 3 others. I know I’m Miss Agility but that might have been too much for me with my legs crossed!

So we left and motored another 2 hours to Juelsminde, a favourite place but also very popular. I was not hopeful, but luck, or something, was with us and a space just big enough for us was free on the over 15 metre wall. Confusingly it had one red and one green sign and had we not been there before we might not have taken it, but because we had, we knew that the wall was for guests and you couldn’t reserve, so we went for it and it was fine.

Well the mooring was fine but the harbour and beach were another matter. When we were here only just over a week ago, but on a Friday rather than Saturday, I had the beach more or less to myself. I could run from cove to cove undisturbed by any sort of human. This time it was packed, absolutely rammed with people and if they weren’t on the beach they were queuing for ice cream or relaxing in the cafes. This is what it must be like in high season and is not something I want to experience too often. I’ve got used to having all this space to myself and never really come across a busy beach (except perhaps in Sonderborg), so it was all a bit of a shock. There was good news though. At dusk they all left the beach and then it was doggy time. So I got my swim and played with a couple of spaniels who were so busy trying to take their ball off each other they were quite happy to let me play with their other one. Then we queued (yes, at 9pm they were still queuing) for ice cream. A happy end to a mixed day.

September 10th 2023 – Juelsminde to Bogense

Sunday morning and everyone left to go home and the madness of yesterday seemed a long time ago. We love Juelsminde, but I wonder if we would have said that if our first visit had been yesterday, or any day in the height of the season. It did serve to remind us of two things; why we went home in July and not to move on a Saturday in the middle of an Indian summer!

These beautiful days often seem to start off dull. Not just misty but grey cloud, then suddenly it clears into another scorching hot, sunny day. This happened today and with perfect timing the weather cleared just as we were mooring up in the old fishing harbour in Bogense. I’m calling it the old fishing harbour but there isn’t much sign of fishing these days. The harbour is a long, quite narrow canal with a turning area at the end. It’s lined with shops and restaurants and has a beautiful aerial photographic exhibition along the very smart quay. There is plenty of visitor mooring and it’s all alongside. Perfect.

The little town is pretty perfect too, from the church and it’s old spire, to Torvet, Adelgade, Vestergade and the town brook – all beautiful and mercifully for me or anyone averse to sightseeing, very compact. Even better, there was a great little circular walk along the coast behind the caravan site, up the steps to the church and then back towards the harbour. For further wandering there are footpaths along the coast in both directions. I didn’t swim, the beach by the harbour was rocky and the sandy cove by the yacht haven was busy, but I didn’t really mind as I could chase my ball along the circular path and that was quite exhausting in the heat.

September 11th 2023 – Bogense to Middelfart

Keeping to our plan of only doing a maximum of 3-4 hours a day the only logical place to stop off at on the way to Aro was Middelfart but as we had already spent several days there we decided to head for the southern rural harbour, Middelfart Marina. It is still only a 30 minute walk into the town centre but it is next to a beach, parkland and if you fancy it, a golf course. Surprisingly though, it is not quite as near to the peninsula walk and deer park as Nyhavn 2 and the beach is a blue flag, so no dogs. So it’s swings and roundabouts, take your pick. It is very peaceful though …. Now!

September 12th 2023 – Middelfart to Aaro

We’re on another island for the next two nights. Tomorrow is going to be very windy so people are hunkering down. Aaro, or Aro, is in Lille Baelt south west of Bago and just off the coast of Arosund. At one time it was Germany’s northern most island and as such there was quite a bit of smuggling between Denmark and Germany. Now it is a tourist island, produces its own wine and beer, rents golf carts to get around and is a great place for walking and cycling. It is also an 8 minute ferry trip to Orisund if you feel like a change of scenery.

September 13th – Aaro

The wind came last night and the harbour was not very well protected – note, don‘t come here to get out of the wind. We rocked and rocked and the ropes strained, so we were trussed up like a chicken. I managed to sleep ok though, you’ll be glad to hear, and by morning the wind had changed direction so it was all a bit more comfortable. Alison did a tour of the island yesterday on her bike, but today we all did it by golf cart. It was brilliant. I sat in the front, rather than my normal place in the back of the car and had a perfect view. It was even better when I leaned out of the side – putting my whole weight on Alison’s legs. Navigation was a bit suspect at times, but we did manage to get to the church, the lookout tower, Fugletarn (birds nest in Danish), the vineyard and the camp site, mainly along untarmaced roads. Annoyingly, they forgot to take any pictures of the buggy and me in the front seat. They did buy some Aaro wine though AND later went back to the microbrewery for some Aaro beer. They’re not likely to forget that, are they! Going back to the Fugletarn, this looks out onto Aaro Kalv, the wildlife reserve off the east coast of the island. It is attached by a narrow split and is out of bounds during the breeding season as it is home to a large number of native and visiting wildlife.

By evening the wind had dropped and the sun came out so I could head to the beach. We had a lovely walk past the lighthouse and along the west coast of the island. The path, known as the Gul route, runs all the way along to the south coast then up to the parking area at the entrance to Aaro Kalv. We didn’t go that far, but it was very tempting as I could run along the beach, in and out of the water whilst Alison could stay on the path but still keep an eye on me (and me on her as I’m not very brave).

September 14th 2023 – Aaro to Dyvig Bro

Absolutely no wind this morning, just how I like it, so it was a very relaxing 2 hour sail back to an old favourite, Dyvig Bro. Sadly there is a lot of algae in both of my swimming places, so I’ve been banned. And I was promised, so very disappointing. I did get a walk with Brian as Alison cycled off to Nordborg for a spot of shopping, but it’s not the same. I’ve now been promised a swim in Sonderborg, so here’s hoping.

September 15th 2023 – Dyvig Bro to Sonderborg

Two to three hours and we were back in what has almost become our home town, Sonderborg. For a change this time we have moored up on the town quay rather than outside the hotel at the other side of the bridge. They have always been concerned about the posts that stop us mooring too close to the quay but it proved not to be an issue – they always forget just how agile I am. It was a bit rocky though, but for for some reason this does not bother me when we’re moored – unlike when we are at sea! Then we were off, down the prom to the woods and beach beyond the yacht haven. The one we thought wasn’t a blue flag beach, only this time a blue flag was flying. Very disappointing. There was no one on it though so I had a play until the useless ball we bought from the supermarket disappeared into the sea.

Back on the boat there was so much activity on the quay, which is the main advantage of this mooring for me – plus the fact that the best ice cream shop was just opposite. I whiled away an hour or two barking at dogs I didn’t like the look of and wagging my tail at the ones I did. I got plenty of attention, which is just how I like it.

They went back to see Zen at Brasserie Grandmere. He was delighted to see them and asked where Mags was – she had obviously created an impression. Next time Zen and thank you for looking us so well, not just tonight, but all summer. Of course when I say us, I mean them, as I’m not sure I’ve ever been. This was a serious lost opportunity for me as with Zen’s generosity he might have given me a free meal!

September 16th 2023 – Sonderborg to Soholm Marine

It took 3 hours to do a journey that takes 30 minutes by bike – it’s a long way round! It was also a bit rough at times so I would have rather gone by bike! Anyway, we got to our final destination and moored up at the end of the pontoon right next to the boat lift, all ready for Monday morning. In the meantime we had a car to pick up, so Alison set off on her bike to Augustenborg (about 5 hours by boat, under an hour by bike). Then we all went back to Augustenborg again to pick up Brian’s bike. I went too as we planned to stop at Dybbol Banke on the way back for a walk, something I think they regretted. With a bike in the back I had to go in the front with Alison but I didn’t like the footwell so lay across her – all 29kgs of me shedding hairs everywhere.

September 17th 2023 – Soholm Marine

Lift out minus one, so cleaning day, which means a very boring day! As it was warm and sunny it meant they could clean, scrub and wash to their hearts content whilst I had to entertain myself. I managed though as I could get into the water on the other side of the pontoon so spent most of the day there, or until I got sick from eating too much grass. I think they were worried I had been eating seaweed, but I hadn’t honestly!

September 18th 2023 – Soholm Marine to Gut Altona Hotel

Up bright and early to finish cleaning and packing before Annapanna came out of the water. They wanted to see her bottom as they suspected it was covered in small shells and marine life that would explain why the thrusters weren’t working as well as they should – and it was. All along the bottom, inside the thrusters, propeler, everywhere except – luckily – the stabilisers. It’s all to do with needing anti fouling and probably the storm in August when she was moored up in the marina in Augustenborg.

We left them high pressure hosing her off and then to make sure it doesn’t happen again Annapanna will have a newly painted bottom in the spring. Before we set off for Gut Altona, a hotel about 40 minutes drive outside Bremen, we had my all important visit to the vet in Broager, a nearby village. It all got a bit panicky as we hadn’t booked and they said they were full, but we managed to persuade them and when we arrived we were the only people there – It’s not like Mearley vets, that’s for sure.
Then we were off, passport duly stamped. We originally planned to go back to the Atlantic Hotel in Bremen but there was a big conference on in town and everywhere was full. That turned out to be such good news for me as Gut Altona is on Dötlingen, right in the middle of wonderful walking and cycling country and one of the wealthiest and most beautiful villages in Germany. Our perfect room had a terrace directly out into the extensive grounds and you could even take your dog for dinner. Not that that affected me though as I wasn’t invited.

September 19th 2023 – Gut Altona to Europort

After another walk through the woods and fields we headed back to Pride of Rotterdam and a bumpy crossing on a windy night. Glad I wasn’t in the kennels as I think it might have been very noisy….and rough.

So that is the end of this year’s blog and my first full season at sea. I think I coped pretty well and the stabilisers certainly earned their keep. We have visited so many lovely Danish towns and cities and I have swum in clear, not too salty, water and played on dozens of beautiful beaches. Getting there wasn’t always the most fun but it was immediately forgotten as soon as I hit that beach. It will be more of the same next year before changing countries for Sweden and open water for the Gota canal. Tune in next May for more of my adventures but in the meantime, have a good winter.